20 Most Recent 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited - Page 8 Questions & Answers

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery to prevent any electrical damage during the reset/program process.
2. Locate the coolant sensor and unplug its electrical connector.
3. Wait for a few minutes and then reconnect the connector back into the sensor.
4. Reconnect the negative battery cable to the battery and start the engine.
5. Allow the engine to idle for a few minutes to allow the system to reset and recalibrate.
6. If the issue persists or you need to program the ECM, you may need to use a diagnostic scanner tool. The scanner can communicate with the ECM to read fault codes, diagnose the issue, and program/reset the ECM if necessary.
7. Once the diagnostic scanner is connected to the vehicle's OBD-II port, follow the on-screen instructions to diagnose and program the ECM.

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Unfortunately Hollander doesn't offer an interchange for door wiring. It would be one of those compair one to the other. Can you not splice yours back together?

28F IS NOTHING CARS CAN RUN AT -30F MINUS 30 F. FOR SURE, WITH 50% AF COOLANT. SO DOES IT CRANK FAST, OR NOT, KEY TURNED TO START. /??? THIS IS FIRST THE BATTERY IS WEAK , THUS THE JUMPER CABLES JUMPS. (DID THAT/) SEEMS LIKE BAD FUEL TO ME HOW OLD IS THE FUEL>? HOLDING THROTTLE DOWN HINTS ME THE IAC IS DEAD/ DIRTY GUMMED UP. OR SPARK PLUGS ARE BAD.

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Hi there! I have the same Issue. Did you find the problem by any chance?

For the main bearing bolts in the 1999 Jeep 4.7, the torque specifications are: 1st Pass - 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs) 2nd Pass - 90 degrees 3rd Pass - 95 Nm (70 ft. lbs)

Most of the time this is caused by a bad brake switch. If the switch is shorting out, then it will cause the computer to think that the brakes are being applied, which turns off the cruise control. If the switch is fine, then it may have a bad speed sensor or the cruise control switch itself is bad. Check out https://www.moparoriginalparts.com/sku/82215834ab.html for Genuine Mopar Trailer Brake Control Kit For Automatic Transmission

first post ever not asking for whole car vacuum connection what a joy.! i have the OEM shop service manual. SM FPR is on the fuel RAIL in 1993. IN USA we call this the ZJ jeep. page 1447 in the SM 5.2L has Throttle body injection the intake manifold has 6 vacuum nipplee port. left side front to rear is booster ,EGR and FPR ANY PORT THERE HARD VACUUM AT IDLE WORKS. EVEN TEE'D IN./ https://imgur.com/a/QUcEKWb BIG'N BOOSTER, OTHER 2 ARE HARD VACUUM, NOT PORTED. AT ALL. DRIVER VIEW LEFT SIDE. TB UP TOP

I own a 2010 GC and all books back to 1988 jeep +wrangler. know them well, owned them from 1988 to now, first EFI then. that is correct to fix all cars we learn what works or does not both. electrics are complex is way and x10 more now. windows bad tracks or weak motors, or the kids proofing motor clutch is bad but is same deal bad motors weak or slips. in door. all that takes is deep inspection even moving windows hands inside door even motor removed for sticking guides. all cars made and the newer they are are nightmare electric problems no exceptions any brand and x10 worse increasing every year up 20 years due to electrics x10 or more complex. ! even 10 ****** computers on board..(will it ever end)? reading on line are ALL NG (nogood) posts on car, never good. posts "Hello all my car runs perfect today." NEVAH" Parasitic drain 101, it is and common on all cars, made. aka. dark current , implies lamps still glowing where you cant see them// the test on all cars ,boat planes and more are. the same! we use a tool called an ammeter, the clamp on DC meter is prime. at battery cable lug, see over(keyoff) drain of over 0.050amps aka 50mA,is out of spec. for most cars, less is best. learn too that batteries do fail and cause this try a spare or borrowed battery yet? Imagine: ever seen the bottom of old batteries, with the plates removed? and bottom full of lead mud so high it hits the plates shorting them out even totally at random, 10 year old batteries are NO GOOD. if not battery then it is Phantom body drain not the battery bad so we see say 1000mA drain most like that is lamp stuck on, look at car in pure dark and find it. eyes take 30mins to get there. so...wait and look next OK that , no lamps seen so next is pull out fuses 1 by 1. and the one that shows 0amps is the bad FEED. found then you whip out the service manual Iike I have and red that fuse page and all loads off that use, 2 or 20 it can be. so we read the schematic and pull all those off the harness 1 by1. bingo found it every time never me not finding it. or tell that fuse and I tell you what next to pull. the amp clamp meter works the best let me tell you why 1: well no wires or lugs to pull. 2: and do know pulling lugs on battery resets the ECU and more and many times doing that the phantom drain ends, making all test now useless until it does happen again. the meter most be DC 20/40 amps or less to see drain and most never be AC only amps . useless. no connections at all just clamp any single wire.(key off drain)

then starter motor is dead, and is silent, and will not crank the engine at all(I GUESS)correct?starter dead is just 6 causes posted her 1000 times and 1million times if you googled why is my starter deadagain just for your causes.yous said jump starts fail but no words at all is the starter motor dead silent.I can push start my car but it has a manual transmission.all IP cluster freeze when engine dies and goes to self test mode , glows lamps.scan the PCM now and it tells you what failed with DTC error as you crank any dead engine.causesbattery cables lugs loose or rusty cleanm em.1:battery is bad, charger it up first or replace it if charging fails or load test fails (those are TOOLS)2: fuse blown. to IGN switch (check all fuses if savvy)3: IMMO lamp not unhappy, bad key, lost 2nd spare key? oops. but cuts spark and confuses many.4: keyswitch bad ST pin failing and BAD.5: PRNDL switch bad (a/t box) shift tO N=neutral and turn key to ST crank position, cured?6: starter relay bad.7: starter motor dead and bad.8: all wires connecting all this up above bad (we use a volt meter) to find all these.THE STARTER MOTOR CAN BE HOT-WIRED TESTED IN-SITU, AND TESTED KEYS IN POCKET SAFE.POSTED VAST TIMES THIS) OR ASK HOW. OR GET THE CAR SERVICED, BY FOLKS THAT KNOW HOW.SKILLS AND TOOLS BOTH. YOU DO NOT HAVE.TURNS OVER(EEKS)50% OF POSTERS MEANS STARTER IS DEAD."NOT TURN OVER"50% OF POSTERS USE THE WORD FOR ENGINE RUNS OR NOT. (CRAZY NO?) THIS USELESS PHRASE?BEST IS SAY CRANK AND AVOID THE SILLY WORDS TURNS OVER. CRANKS AND WILL NOT START (50 CAUSES)OR WILL NOT CRANK (SURE IT CANT START)AND 6 CAUSES, BUT MINE PUSH STARTS ANY DAY.IF THE STARTER MOTOR IS SILENT SAY SOOR SAY IT CLICKS ONLY OR CHATTERS ONLY.THE DEAF HELPERS CAN NOT HEAR YOUR STARTER , EVER. UNLESS VIDEO OF IT POSTED WOW..

1. Battery: Make sure the battery in your key fob is not dead or low. If the battery is weak, it may not be sending the correct signal to the alarm system, causing it to disarm.
2. Programming: Check that the alarm system is programmed correctly. Make sure the system is set to arm in the mode you want (such as "silent" or "beeping"), and that the alarm is set to trigger when the appropriate sensor is triggered (such as door, window, or motion sensors).
3. Faulty Sensor: There may be a faulty sensor that is causing the alarm to disarm. Check that all sensors are working correctly and not causing false alarms or malfunctions.
4. Interference: Interference from other wireless devices or nearby radio signals can cause your alarm system to malfunction. Make sure there are no other wireless devices nearby that could be interfering with your alarm system's signal.

First, you should check to make sure the fuse is not shorting out anywhere. If it is, replace it. Next, you should check all the wiring to the fuse box and make sure it is not frayed or worn. Finally, you should check the sensors and connectors for the electronic fuel injection and ignition control system, as a faulty connection or sensor could be preventing your Jeep from starting.

this is found 2 ways , googled or RTM read the manual service? I had 99 with that inline 6 yes painful fixing cars others have hacked up,. or left asunder. amazing facts, in the SM shows firing order is cast into the intake manifold metal. clear as day, 153624 next is rotor direction needed. is CW clock wise not CCW (counter CW) knowing this HV wires laid down in correct order next is crank pulley front set to TDC mark 0deg. so that cylinder #1 is at compression top not at exhaust stroke. as in both head valves closed #1 and #1 is front end. what is cool in the year car is spark timing can not be adjustable, the dizzy plants down only one way so finding #1 on the cap is all we need CKP sensor sets spark timing, and is fixed the inside DIZZY sensor only does injector timing sync. not spark. the CKp does that so the dizzy mount is fixed heard. jeep SM page. XJ jeeps sm words distrubed dizzy

1. Remove the No. 1 cylinder spark plug. Turn the engine using a socket wrench on the large bolt on the front of the crankshaft pulley. Place a finger near the No. 1 spark plug hole and turn the crankshaft until the piston reaches Top Dead Center (TDC). As the engine approaches TDC, you will feel air being expelled by the No. 1 cylinder. If the position is not being met, turn the engine another full turn (360 degree). Once the engine's position is correct, install the spark plug.
2. Using a flat-bladed screwdriver, in the distributor hole, rotate the oil pump gear so that the slot in the oil pump shaft is in the correct position.
3. With the distributor cap removed, install the distributor so that the rotor is positioned correctly. Insure that the distributor is fully seated against the cylinder block. If not, remove the distributor and perform the entire procedure again.
4. Tighten the hold-down bolt to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
5. Install distributor cap and ignition wires. Insure that the wires are routed correctly before attempting to start engine.

see the bold words above, for jeep missing a distributor. chapter 8D in the jeep manual. cover this.

It's possible that there may be an issue with the bearings that were installed during the replacement. A grinding or whining noise when the vehicle is in park could indicate that the bearings are not seated properly or that there is an issue with the transmission. Here are some steps you can take to troubleshoot the issue:

1. Check the bearings: Inspect the bearings to make sure they are properly installed and seated. Look for any signs of wear or damage on the bearings, as this could be causing the noise.
2. Check the transmission: If the bearings appear to be installed properly, the noise may be coming from the transmission. Check the fluid level and condition to ensure that it is at the correct level and free from any metal shavings.
3. Check the parking brake: A loose or improperly adjusted parking brake can also cause a grinding noise when the vehicle is in park. Make sure that the parking brake is properly adjusted and functioning as it should.

If you're not comfortable troubleshooting the issue yourself, it's best to take your vehicle to a trusted mechanic for a thorough inspection. They will be able to diagnose the issue and recommend the necessary repairs.

no VIN no year, no engine told, the VIN gets them all.fuel tank low?when did car last run right.?did this car sit for a year unused? or more.ever get a tune up?first GC is 1992 we can not guess what you have.

It sounds like there may be an issue with the electrical system of your 2011 Jeep Liberty after the heater core replacement. Here are some things you can check to diagnose the problem:

1. Wiring: Make sure all the wiring has been properly reconnected and check for any loose or damaged wires.
2. Fuses: Check the fuses to make sure they have not blown as a result of the electrical issue.
3. Blower motor: If the blower motor is not functioning properly, it may be causing the issue with the blower speed. Check the motor for any damage or signs of wear and replace if necessary.
4. Electrical control module: The electrical control module is responsible for controlling the various electrical components in your vehicle. If it is not functioning properly, it may be causing the issues with the blower and the radio.
5. Radio: If the radio is only working on satellite, there may be an issue with the antenna or the connection to the antenna. Check the antenna and the connection to make sure everything is properly connected.

The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) voltage regulator is an important component that helps regulate the voltage supplied to the PCM in order to ensure stable and consistent performance. Bypassing the PCM voltage regulator is generally not recommended, as it can cause the PCM to operate outside of its designed specifications, leading to problems such as erratic engine performance, reduced fuel efficiency, and even damage to the engine or other components. Additionally, bypassing the PCM voltage regulator may also cause the vehicle to become inoperative or not start at all, as the PCM is responsible for controlling a variety of functions including engine ignition and fuel injection. If you are experiencing issues with the PCM voltage regulator, it is recommended to have it diagnosed and repaired by a qualified mechanic or dealership. If the voltage regulator itself is defective, it can be replaced, but bypassing it may not solve the underlying issue and could cause additional problems. In short, bypassing the PCM voltage regulator on a 1994 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L 6-cylinder is not recommended and may lead to serious problems with the vehicle's performance and functionality.

Maybe this site will help you...... https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/cherokee-stalls-when-given-gas.1192114/ Best to you

why not scan the PCM first (OBD2?) 2wd or 4wd ? no miles told on car, 300k miles>? or? NO year or VIN or Engine told. 2002 to 2012 . "I pulled it means ",you out side car pulling it to move it brakes all off? I can not understand this statement. so sorry . but have done it vast times (pushing), and checked brakes. and inspected brakes for rotor warp ,cracks or calipers seized. *and hand brake fails, car must be in neutral to push it. (park locks rear wheels) and seems key to me. ok brakes are failing or the engine is weak so if brakes are not failing then the engine is weak. it's not slipping transmission as RPM are low. i can name 50 causes and 10 to 20 tests top cause is low fuel pressure. engines used (not told) "the 150 horsepower (110 kW) 2.4 L straight-4, which was discontinued in 2006, and the 210 horsepower (160 kW) 3.7 L V6, as well as a short-lived 2.8 L VM Motori turbo diesel (2005-2006 only).[6] 2008 I4 dropped and , diesel to dropped" only 3.7L V6 (a fine engine I have,) my V6 is chain drive cam and very strong. when power is lost we put in a new ACC belt,new filters and new spark plugs. called a tune up, ever do one? the belt new saves engine overheat damage $$$$$$$ my v6 (2010 grand Cherokee) uses 4 things to make power. (besides spark not bad)

1. a working FPR (fuel pressure reg.) a tool
2. good fuel pump both are tests using gauge tool PSI. (service manual covers all this)
3. or even bad fuel, in the tank.
4. and working MAP sensor and for sure not clogged up.(vac port end)

and more, bad engines happen... compression tests. I use the scan tool and PID scan every sensors in the on the engine, and no DTC errors. and make sure ECT reads 180F+ when engine is fully warm/hot. if way LOW the thermostat is bad. most 11 year old thermostats (car 2012) are bad. or older car. I'd not run one over that. risky to engine,. tell more get more. do a tune up fully scan it. clean the MAP fully full brake inspection any time car can not be pushed by hand in Neutral. key off. (not park ) hand brake off. yes hand brakes fail too ,rear. this brake is small drum brake and can seize, main brakes are all calipers x4 all can cause seize up.(or be intermittent !!!!) if car has brake problems do not drive the car fix it first. even ABS can fail. (I purge mine every year DOT fluid) ok there are some ideas, to try. my guess is brakes bad or was in PARK if not scan the engine.