20 Most Recent 2008 Hyundai Entourage GLS - Page 2 Questions & Answers

0.17 to 0.23mm inlet 0.25 to 0.31mm exhaust on a cold engine

Is this poor acceleration something the car has just started doing or are you trying to upgrade for better than the normal acceleration? What exactly does it do when you try to accelerate? Do you have any warning lights on the dashboard? Have you had it plugged into an OBD2 scanner to look for trouble codes?

When you say "they," do you mean a mechanic or shop that tested the charging system before confirming it's okay?*Check the tensioner on the alternator belt. The tension could be loose, causing a problem charging the car to the PCM's satisfaction.*Also check the alternator/serpentine belt for cracks. If it has cracks along the length of the side with the teeth, replace it. *Another thing to check is the terminals on the battery. Make sure there's no corrosion on them and that the cables are securely tightened.

In the link https://www.google.com/search?q=2006+Hyundai+H100+D4BB+torque+settings ..

Shoddy workmanship. Never leave an item with a fastner missing! I would get the belt path aligned first and then fit a new fan belt ensuting all fastners are in place and torqued to factory specification.

check out the link and also the images tab https://www.google.com/search?q=2006+Hyundai+H100+with+D4BB+torque+settings This Service manual may be useful although it is D4B

SHOP MANUAL

valvulita https://www.valvulita.com > sites > default > files PDF We want to assist you in every way possible with this manual and your purchase of HYUNDAI engine is highly appreciated. ... TORQUE TABLE OF STANDARD PARTS. 3. 165 pages ..

You most likely have a short circuit that needs to be located and repaired, since something is draining the battery faster than its normal reserve capacity can handle. You'll need to obtain a wiring diagram that details which components are included in the 30A p/conn circuit, and then you can unplug each component one-by-one (or pull their fuse), until the excess current drain is gone. You'll also need a multimeter to measure voltage/current/resistance as needed. If you'd like assistance or need a diagram, feel free to let me know and I'll help out.

Under the vehicle at the left front corner of the fuel tank

As my old dad used to say "they must have seen you coming"! Are you, young, female, blonde and cute? :>D Engine tick is caused by play in the valve lifters and is an easy repair. It may have been the timing chain, but.... "Elantra's new, maintenance-free silent timing chain enhances engine durability while reducing noise." In normal circumstances, tick is not a reason to put in a new engine. It sounds like your issue is bad connectors to the ECU. They spraying the connectors with electrical switch cleaning spray. If that doesn't work, you need a good auto electrician with a professional grade scan tool computer to diagnose the issue. These computers can record exactly what happens to put the vehicle into Limp Mode. https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me ..

The clutch needs adjusting. Or transmission cables need adjusting. https://www.google.com/search?q=Hyundai+Ato+1.1+can%27t+get+it+into+gear ..

This could be due to a variety of reasons such as a faulty shift solenoid, internal mechanical failure with the transmission, or an issue with the transmission fluid. It's possible that the car's transmission was damaged when it was stuck in the snow drift. The slight pause shifting from reverse to drive that you mentioned earlier could also be an indication of a transmission problem. I would recommend taking your car to a qualified mechanic to diagnose and fix the issue. You might get lucky-- but without a visual inspection, you may just hear the intimidating prognosis of a transmission problem. In the meantime, you can try holding your left foot on the brake while you shift into reverse. Then, as soon as you feel the transmission engage, gently depress the gas pedal with your right foot. This will eliminate the forward roll problem .

It is usually within the Body Control Module and not removable or you may have an aftermarket alarm which could be anywhere.

the liner sits 1mm above the deck of the block and the piston top is level with the top of the liner.

Question edited for clarity, spelling of maker, toss in some CAPS Question moved to maker category. " overheated due to welch plus failure. "?? What?? When it goes into Limp Mode the ECM will throw codes telling you why you are in Limp Mode. From the code you get the fix. An auto electrician with a professional grade scan tool computer can look at historical codes. Limp Mode is very serious and is activated to stop catastrophic engine failure. https://www.google.com/search?q=mobile+auto+electrician+near+me https://www.google.com/search?q=overheated+due+to+welch+plus+failure ..

What issues are you having with the one you have fitted now? Have you given the old one a major service? The gaskets, diaphragm, idle jet and main jet. Sometimes the fix can be as easy as that.

Try this test. With the key OUT of the ignition stand outside the vehicle, reach out and try to move the broken wiper blade by hand. Does it move with no resistance? Does it feel like 'clicking' as you move it? Does the other wiperblade move slightly as you move it or does it not move at all? This will help work out if it is the wiper arm slipping on it's drive spindle or if the problem is deeper down underneath in the rods and arms moving the wiperblades. Please comment below with this information and I'll try to help you more.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDdnLgh-opQ This video shows it on a 2014. May be the same.

https://www.hamanual.com/installation-370.html

This is indeed a serious problem and was covered in a Service Bulletin. Your dealership should be doing it for free but not sure if it is a recall. It is a big job as shown here. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10173548-0001.pdf https://www.google.com/search?q=Hyundai+Sonata+P0717 ..