20 Most Recent 2012 Volkswagen Jetta SportWagen TDI Wagon 2.0L 4-cyl. Turbodiesel 6-speed Manual - Page 8 Questions & Answers

how close are you to a autozone they can scan it for you and head you in the right direction.

vacuum leak possible brake booster if it is good when the brake is not applied it is the booster

I have seen this problem on both my 2004 Jetta and a 2000 Grand Caravan. All the symptoms you describe point to the possibility of a very restricted flex brake line that is between the wheel well housing and the brake caliper. The inside of the flex line becomes restricted by the swelling of the rubber liner of the hose and the corrosion of the wire mesh embedded in the rubber hydraulic hose. Corrosion expands the embedded metal mesh and pushes inward and outward which causes a total restriction of the inner diameter of the hydraulic hose. When you push your foot on the brake pedal, hundreds and perhaps thousands of pounds per square inch (psi) of hydraulic pressure are applied to the brake caliper piston to apply pressure to the disc brake pads on the rotor. This high psi forces hydraulic fluid through the swollen and restricted hydraulic hose to apply pressure to the caliper, but when the brake pedal is released the hose contracts from lack of pressure and the restriction prevents the release of pressure at the caliper, hence the brakes are still being applied to some extent. This will cause the wheel to continue to brake when it's not supposed to and the ABS light can go in some cases. The brake pads and rotor are subject to overheating with this condition. The rotor may discolor and even warp. Brakes may pulsate. The outside wheel rims may feel hotter than other wheels not affected by this issue. When I replaced the hydraulic hose the problem was resolved. On the Caravan I ended up replacing the hose on the opposite side a year later for the same problem, so replace the opposite side if one side gets resolved with hose replacement. On a final note, the problem may also be caused by a sticking piston in the caliper so consider that possible issue as well. I've had this scenario as well on at least 4 calipers over the years. I hope this information helps!

This can be a hard one need to know if all the tubes and vacuum lines are good including the pcv valve tubes and system if these are in poor repair you may not get the throttle body to stay programmed flashing the ECM won't help unless some one flashed it to the wrong programming before.

indicates a clutch master cylinder problem as the clutch fluid is not returning to the reservoir because of a blocked compensating port and that is holding the clutch as disengaged

Also check the fender drains. If they get clogged up the water will spill over into the air intake for the cabin. May have to remove to hood cowling the plastic under the wipers. The inspect from debris and if you have air hose blow the drain and vent out.

Could be a developing clutch problem or maladjustment or wear of the gear linkage - or both.

Hi, what Model/year is your engine? In older models with 1.6 &1.8 liter engines they had a notch on the flywheel that marked top dead center for the crankshaft, you had to align the notch with an arrow in the housing, once aligned the camshaft was set by aligning a mark (dot) on the camshaft pulley with a mark (notch) on the right side of the head. In case you have a newer model let me know so that I can find out for you. Regards

Best advise is to get a gearbox specialist to have a good look at it. 'Slipping' products are only a very temporary fix. Using them too often can actually do more damage.(Damage means a bigger repair bill). There are too many gearbox parts involved to 'predict' what the problem is. At that mileage a checkup won't be a bad thing to do.