20 Most Recent 2012 Dodge Charger SRT8 Sedan 6.4L V8 5-speed Automatic Questions & Answers

You need to visit an auto electrician, an alarm installer or an auto locksmith. The key fob needs re-pairing to the locking system. Videos that might help https://www.google.com/search?q=2012+Dodge+Charger.+Key+fob+not+locking+and+unlocking+doors+after+battery+change ..

best people are speed shops and engineering shops that specialize in high performance engines. Best advice--- talk a lot and get real advice because if you get it wrong you will be looking at real serious damage to the engine and car. The engine will have to be specifically built to handle the nitro addition, the nitro should only be used at high rpms and for short periods ( seconds) Do not believe what you see in the movies as that is not what it is all about.

the operator guide missing in just 2 years. did you look in 3 tops locatons dash glove box side of drivers seat. first

Only thing I can think of for such a newer vehicle is the something broke inside the transmission. When you feel the clicks shifting, this is a spring loaded ball bearing that keeps the parking pawl in position. Older cars I would say the cable locked. You can remove the cable from the transmission shifter and see if it will move by hand. If not, remove the drive shaft and have it towed safely. Remove the end at the transmission. Six bolts and the rubber piece. Have a pry bay to get the rubber out.

Question edited for clarity. No it isn't normal. There is probably a change solenoid or sensor issue. Take it to a transmission place and they will put it on a fancy scan tool computer. Tell them you want to see the results. Don't let them tell you that you need a new transmission!

You added the Refrigerant Gas yourself? 'Freon' was banned 30 years ago. The gasses have name like R121A. The system needs to be filled by weight of liquid gas. All of the gas is sucked out by a recovery machine. Then once there is a vacuum, the gas bottle is put on a scale and the correct weight of gas is added with the AC running. That is the only way to do 'maintenance'.

I don't know the location but if you follow the + cable from the battery it connects to the starter .

If this is the engine without a distributor the firing order is 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, The cylinder heads are numbered as odds and evens. Standing with the belts and pulley nearest to you, (the transmission furthest away), the left side is the odd numbers and the right side is the even numbers. Number 1 is the left one nearest to you, number 2 is the right one closest to you, 3 is middle left and 4 is middle right, 5 is the far left and 6 is the far right cylinder.

Here are the specs you require: • Camshaft Sprocket Bolts 75 +1?4 Turn ft-lbs • Camshaft Thrust Plate - Bolts 28 ft lbs - 250 in lbs • Connecting Rod Cap -20+ 1/4 turn ft lbs Here are the four steps you should take: 1. Cylinder Head Bolts* 45 ft-lbs 2. Cylinder Head Bolts* 65 ft-lbs 3. Cylinder Head Bolts* 65 ft-lbs 4. Cylinder Head Bolts* +1?4 Turn +1?4 Turn

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Probably shorted heater coils

Did it used to be a police vehicle? There is a chance that when the police equipment was removed from the vehicle that something was unplugged that shouldn't have been. If you are not very mechanical I would suggest finding a competent mechanic to take a look at it.

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Well, this could be a number of things. First, check the fuse for the fuel sending unit to be sure there's power going to it. Next, turn the key to 'power on' but don't start it and try to hear the sending unit 'humm' while it's priming the lines. If you can hear it or you know there's power, pull the key and get underneath and disconnect the fuel line just after the filter and put the key back in and turn it back to the power on, but no start. If everything's good then fuel will start coming out of the lines and you know that there's most likely a blockage further downstream and it's not a faulty sending unit. Good luck!

with a multi meter

There is a switch on the dash that should say ESP, if you press and release that it turns the ESP ( electronic skid protection) off and on. It is not really ever always off. To turn it off you have to be driving about 15 mph and hold that button down till it chimes and the lights come on. You then cannot turn it off unless you do the same thing AND turn off the ignition and restart the car,