Rav4 1997 engine heating
The description of your "Problem" is pretty vague. I guess you have an engine that is OVERheating? If that is the case, do not drive it further as you might blow the head gasket if it already isn't. Engine overheating can be caused by a few problems. Easy ones first -
#1 - Replace your thermostat. Do that and check #3 at the same time.
#2. - Blockage(s) in your cooling system. Over time/mileage, the antifreeze/coolant breaks down and actually becomes ineffective in it's purpose (cooling - antifreezing). Not only does it become ineffective, but can actually become a contaminant to the engine and important engine seals causing premature breakdown by building up blockages and flow inhibition points through the very small passages inside your engine and radiator. If your cooling system has not been flushed and serviced (leak check, flow test, etc.) every 60,000 miles, it is definitely time for it. Overall charge for this service is usually $85-$135 at most garages. At a dealer, - likely $200 minimum. It is a relatively simple procedure, just messy and time consuming, not to mention what to do with your old antifreeze/coolant - don't let it drain into streets as dogs love to drink and it is fatal for them to do so. I can step you through the process, just let me know.
#3. - Water pump may be on it's way out. Your 1997 is roughly 17-18 yrs old = 200,000+ miles. That is about past the time engine components start their breakdown process regardless of preventive maintenance performed. Usually a water pump will start to "weep" when it is ending it's life of service. There is a small weephole at the base that will drip coolant/antifreeze once the seal that covers the bearings starts giving out. The drip starts almost imperceptibly, steadily gaining in volume and frequency the longer it runs. If you happen to notice your cooling system needing to be topped off after a few days of running, or sometimes you can smell the coolant (sweet smell) while the motor is running, then this is a possible sign your pump is needing replacing - or you might just have a small leak above a hot area of the engine and the coolant is vaporizing when it comes into contact with this superheated area. Anyway, waiting for the water pump to actually fail is another option - prolonging the inevitable - but once it does, do not attempt to "limp" home unless you take several hours to get a few miles - drive 1, stop & cool for hour, drive 1, stop & cool for hour, etc. Don't entirely rely on your temp gauge/light to keep it from overheating. Temp gauges and/or sensors typically require the fluid to flow across the sensor before giving a reading/warning. When the water pump gives out, the flow is interrupted and the gauges/sensors can give false readings. If you decide to change your water pump yourself and need help, I recommend Haynes or Chilton manuals. Excellent resources for this type of job. (about $30). Good luck