2005 Toyota Previa 2.4 - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

yeap we have this problem, we had the radiator flushed and it fully serviced.problem came back.no visible water leak under pressure test by mechanic.ours turned out to be the head gasket.not good.new engine .not worth trouble

Okey--now what?

You will need a wiring diagram of the
system, to continue

HANJi...is horn

what model toyota?

bleed master cylinder first then slave

5w-30 or 10w-30 if car has higher miles go with 10w-30

Oxides Of Nitrogen (NOX)

Above 2500 degree engine combustion temperature
nitrogen bonds to oxygen to form NOX

The EGR Valve is supposed to allow a certain
amount of exhaust gases into incoming air to
control high combustion temperature and control
NOX

Bad Egr Valve
Engine operating too hot
Cat too cool at inspection station
Fuel mixture issues
PCV issues
O2 Sensor issues
Injector issues
Ignition issues

If you filled it with straight anti-freeze, it will run hot. Anti-freeze needs to be diluted with water to work properly. Use the guidelines on the jug to figure the proper mixture for your area. If unsure, usually 50-50 is a good mix (but I live in the SE US). I was guilty of the straight anti-freeze usage in the '80's and was told I had to mix it...and when I did, everything worked properly.
Hope this helps...if you didn't use straight antifreeze, then this is of no help :)

The rear washer fluid comes from the main reservoir under your hood for the front window. Sometimes the rear will not work because it is not filled high enough, hope this helps

HI and welcome to FixYa!

Switch can be faulty that's why it won't run on lpg. If the switch is fine then check for blown fuse or relay. Will it run on gas? If it does then it's got to be the switch or valve.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

It should be in the trunk, either under the spare tire or in a side panel pocket.

thats a fine battery but when selecting a battery always get the stock or better as far as cold cranking amps goes

does the vibration stop when not under load, (coasting) Possible front axle shaft or hub bearing. hows the tire condition,no shifted belts or odd shape? notice balance weights missing? Is this a auto or manual, If manual do you feel more vibe in pedal or wheel? Jack front of car, assuming front wheel drive? Brace care with jack stands, block rear wheels, put car in nuetral, rotate front tires in both directions,each side, and listen,feel, look at all moving parts. also move tires in and out at the nine and three o clock position,(as if the tire was turning right and left) help is great while doing this as it allows you to be under car and visually inspect steering components,tie rod ends and inners. grab tire at six and twelve o clock and try to wiggle back and forth, grab a 2x4 and put under each tire and have helper pry up and down. you will be checking for upper ball joint slop. this should give you a good idea of what the problem is. Hows the motor mounts?

i would start by checking the brake fluid level,if it is ok then i would say from what you said the master cylinder needs to be replaced

You have a issue then with your anti lock braking system. If that light is on they are not working properly.

Sounds like like it has jumped time. Probably running retarded (relative point of spark occurrence to piston reaching top of travel).

Have someone check the timing alignment of the crankshaft relative to the camshaft(s).

I'd just about bet it's a going to need a timing belt.

Good luck!

the counter balance weight has come loose its has a rubber insert and these wear away or come unbonded whatever way you describe it .

Fig. 5: Data Link Connector 1 (DLC1) terminal identification - 1995 models

check your fuses it sounds like a fuse poped to the heater fan. or the fan has went out but in most cases it is just a fuse

TOYOTA USES FRONT DISC BRAKES.