2006 Toyota Previa 2.4 - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Loosing coolant, white smoke= blown head gasket.

hi.
it could be listed as a tie-rod end, or tie-bar end.
it may also be shown as a stabiliser bar.

you may find you have to buy the complete rod as some of the ends were not removable.
it may be worth asking the mot tester is he knows what they are called

Probably have a rear light ,turn signal ,or brake light out.

it is actually not to hard, easier if 2wd, remove the front propeller shaft, then remove starter held by three bolts and a nut, install it back tracking

The high idle is affects it ability to start up, but the main problem is the fuel pump ,to deliver proper fuel to start the vehicle up, the previa is also equipt with a cold start injector, try this cycle the ignition but just dont start we will let it build pressure, cylcle it and do you hear the humming noise thats the fuel pump, cycle it again, now crank it hopefully this helps

5th gear is attached to the idler arm.Your shifting fork catches it at positions it , The internal shifter worn out. This shifter wore out because it has a lot of pressure that it applied to it.only a tear down of the transmission can resolve this

As a rule you have to take the "boot" off the floor in the inside of the vehicle to get to the top of the transmission. The shifter is bolted on the top of the transmission.

Your problem may be a simple fix or a costly one.I would check that the rear end was at its proper fill level usually you want the fluid right under the check plug.you will want to check the owner manual for the amount of fluid you should put in it.You dont want to overfill it because it can cause the fluid to foam up .and if you need to add make sure of the fluid specs.Not all diff fluids are the same some take a synthetic fluid or an additive.I hope that this will help you out and it ends up just being low on fluid rather than you having to replace the rear end.

Repair it ....A rattle could be anything simple....Normally it is a splashguard or a heat shield that can rattle and make you think it is bad and it wont be.....Have it inspected first ....
some rattles can be a bearing noise from a waterpump or an idler pulley ....etc.....
All vehicles are repairable normally......It could be very simple....I see it all the time...have faith
...The timing belt is common.....Also waterpump.............Hope this helps............Metalpoet

If you scroll down to the bottom of the page you can select "contact". You can send a message explaining what happened. See if you get an answer there. Otherwise contact your credit card company.

You need to have an OBII scan done (fault scan) Any good parts store (Autozone, Advance, etc...) can do it for you for free. They wool pull codes and it will identify what triggered light.

look for pinch line or colapssed hose allowing fluide to go true under pressure from pedal
but creeping back out due to restriction if you crack open the bleeder screw on the problem
wheel fluide should spurt out and brakes would release also a bad master cylinder can cause this

well not without replacing the transmission. More than likely your transmission is burnt, especially the solenoid. You can replace the transmission or buy a transmission full kit and replace the transmission components. Now Dont take my word for it, I'll show you how to test it, its quite simple. pull the dipstick out the transmission and smell it, you will get a burnt sent, also the fluid will be a bit discolored and if you touch it the viscosity is greatly reduced.

Could be a number of issues i would start with plug wires, good luck to ya.

Troubleshooting wiring can be a difficult task when your doing it much less telling someone else to. If your blowing a fuse you need to find out what that fuse runs. The best bet would be to get a book on the vehicle and see what circuit is blowing.

You will want to start by looking for wires that are burnt or touching the exhuast. They dont even have to be on the same circuit for it to matter. As an example if the o2 sensor wire on a v6 f150 burns on the exhuast it will blow the transmission fuse and sometimes the pcm fuse.

firstly you check the temperature switch, and than clean the radiator for air pressure & always use coolant in the radiator.

The reservoir on a sealed system is under the hood. It's the plastic container with marks indicating low and full. There is also a pressure cap on the radiator that lets the coolant in or out as needed.

First two 10 amp fuses in passenger comp. fuse block are the first thing to check. One says gauge, the other says heater.

for a fuel knock. change brand of fuel or get a higher octain fuel to see if this helps. it may just solve your knock. have a good one !!

First change the fuel filter, if this does not help, then it is the fuel pump which is located in your gas tank. Also check fuses for a blown fuse to the pump before changing it.