2009 Subaru Forester 2.5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Pick up a repair manual. It will have the 30 or 40 different torque specs in it. IE head, intake, exhoust, rocker shaft, timing gears, etc, etc, etc.

The location is a on the bottom of the engine block, just above where the oil dipstick enter the oil pan. If it does not have a block heater already installed, there will be a plug that takes a 14mm allen wrench/socket. Coolant must be drained to avoid being covered in it when the plug is removed.

I suspect that the tire is old and the steel belts are failing. Pull the wheel off and check the tire for cracks in the tread, any out of round or bulges. Get a new tire (or tires).

those are not codes those show that you didnt read instructions completely on the use of your scan tool those show that their are codes present depending on unit you either hit next or codes or enter rescan vehicle and continue to next page when those show up

No - bleeding can be done well statically. Use a bleed tool to help get it right. After complete - check vacuum lines to master cylinder for cracks or leaks.

The 2007 is very similar to the 2005, which has the DRL box behind the glove compartment, at the top center. It's clearly marked DRL.

Start with the simple stuff: is the exhaust system fully supported? Harder stuff: check for ... * loose rear suspension components (unlikely) * prop shaft U-joint wear (also unlikely) * rear transmission support blocks

It sounds like you over heated the engine and have damaged the head gasket. do not drive and have you car looked at more in detail to confirm the head gasket is indeed the problem

fuse 4 underhood fuse box and circuit breaker left end of dash

I have had the parking lights on my 1998 forester stay on w/ no way to turn off. Used the remote door lock to lock and unlock car and the lights went off?????????? This has happened twice with the same solution

I have a few trouble shooting tips for the problem with your Subaru Forester key fob. 1) Make sure you have the correct key fob part number. There are a couple different part numbers that are almost exactly the same. 2) Wipe the board The board inside your remote can get a lot more filthy than you think! When the board is dirty it can prohibit the contact to the circuit board when you push down on the button. Simply wiping the circuit board off can make your key fob like new again! 3) The old car battery reset trick I know this sounds absurd, but it works sometimes and is worth trying. If you exhausted all of the options above, disconnect bot terminals on your car battery for 10 minutes. Then reconnect them and try your key fob. This has worked for many people and I have no idea why. If you do, please comment below to explain. 4) Not sure where you bought the new key fob from, but some of the suppliers on eBay can be knock off quality. Try sending the one you purchased back and order one from here: https://www.keylessentryremotefob.com/Subaru-Forester-Remotes-and-Keys-s/5381.htm

Try this linkie: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f151/help-wanted-buy-used-forester-scared-common-problems-51255/

Sounds like your in tank pump isn't working.....and you have no fuel pressure at the fuel rail on the engine. See if you can tell that it turns on when you turn the key on....I'm not familiar with Subarus so I don't know if you can hear them spin up or not......Most any shop can tell you if you have fuel pressure at the rail....the other way is to loosen the fuel line at the rail and turn the key to on ( not crank) and see if you have fuel leaking from the loosened connection.

Check oil level and colour in the box if black or sludgy then change if not then look to torque convertor issue

What is the problem, it just bolts down over the spark plug.

That most likely is the brake lights staying on because the brake light switch under dash is out of adjustment and the brake pedal is not touching the button to shut it off. Possibly the spring is disconnected that pulls the pedal up against the brake light switch button. Check this out.

Without seeing them my experience says they are clips that have two pieces. Simply put a screwdriver in the slot and turn like u do a screw but be very careful these are very fragile. When they are almost out pull cover off

could be condensation leaking from a small hole. I have seen some mufflers with a hole about 1/16" just for that purpose. It would do you some good to try and pinpoint exactly where it is coming from. Also, if you are not loosing any coolant, probably nothing to worry about. For coolant to come out exhaust, in most cases, you would have to have coolant entering a cylinder and it would show up in poor performance, very white smoke out exhaust while driving, and lose of coolant.

If it can be jumped at the solenoid then I would check out the ignition switch or the actual key cylinder insert. Some key inserts have plastic tabs on the sides or end and these will wear over time