20 Most Recent 2006 Opel Zafira 1.9 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Visit the on-line store, know as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem. 2007 Opel Corsa Diesel 1 3 CDTi Engine Repair Workshop Manual PDF

Hello, open up the hood.
Remove the positive terminal cable from the battery using your pliers or wrench.
Go to your fuse box in your car, and look at the diagram. ...
Keep the car disconnected like this for two to three minutes to clear the computer's memory.
Insert the fuse back in to the box.

Is this the EGR sensor? If so, EGR may be dirty and not working properly.

you should try to change battery in imobelizer!

Using new bolts the sequence is :- stage 1. 25Nm (18lbf ft) stage 2. Angle tighten 90 degrees stage3. Angle tighten another 90 degrees stage4. Angled tighten another 90 degrees stage5. Angle tighten a further 45 degrees these as same for 1.4. 1.6 and 1.8 engines but not 2.0

Answered on Fixya already https://www.fixya.com/cars/t20493893-torque_setting_cylinder_head_opel_corsa More here including videos https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+Opel+Corsa+1.4+litre.+Cylinder+Head+bolts+torque+setting ..

Videos and text articles. Don't forget to hone the sheen off the cylinder bores so the rings and the bores bed in together. You should really have a workshop manual. It is free and herehttps://www.allcarmanuals.com/data/files/manuals/holden/Holden-Astra-TR-1995-1998-Workshop-Manual.pdf..The torques are here in text and also in videos.https://www.google.com/search?safe=off&rlz=1C1QJDB_enCA643CA644&sxsrf=ALeKk00cC7O4HcTRwcTrVP4y7STe3R4mXg%3A1615677165537&ei=7UZNYNGLIK6RtgW-rIbwCw&q=+1994+opel+astra+1.6IE+8+valve+cylinder+head+torque+settings..

First make sure it is the correct belt for that engine. Sometimes the really cheap belts are often not quite the correct size so they wear out faster. If it has covers over the belts are they fitted correctly? Are you having any other issues with the car? A battery not charging or an over heating problem? These can give clues to possible reasons for the belt wear. Where on the belt are the wear marks showing? If it is on the smooth back side of the belt there is probably something rubbing on it. Look to see if there is something else in the engine bay that is sticking out and touching where it shouldn't. If it is on the ribbed, working side of the belt it could be a pulley wheel causing the issue. The tensioner could be sticking or failing so it isn't adjusting for engine speed changes. It could also be one of the pulleys it runs around 'dragging'. With the engine OFF remove the belt and check the tensioner moves freely against the spring inside it. Turn all the smaller pulley wheels the belt runs around by hand. They should turn smoothly, freely and quietly. If they feel 'gritty' or seem noisy that could be where the issue is.

Fixya does not have specs for every vehicle made. But this link might help you https://www.google.com/search?q=Settings+for+big+end+and+mains+on+1.2+opel+kadett+1983&hl=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi-7Yic-PLuAhVVeH0KHeTICZ4Q_AUoAnoECBEQBA&biw=1366&bih=625You can also try google or the service manual.

If the shaft jams, the valve timing is incorrect.

i have idea

The camshaft and it's housing is retained by the cylinder head bolts - if you have removed the camshaft housing the cylinder head gasket must also be replaced and the latest torque figures are usually supplied with a replacement gasket. The male and female threads must be cleaned and lubricated and any stretched or corroded bolts replaced. The washers too and under the bolt heads must be lubricated. The bolts are tightened starting with the centre pair and working outwards in a spiral pattern.The bolts are tightened first to an initial torque of 18 lb-ft and then by 60 degrees + 60 + 30 degrees and then after thoroughly warming up the engine and at least 6 hours cooling time, by a further 30 - 50 degrees depending on "feel", but you should verify these figures before proceeding... The tappets are self adjusting hydraulic that will fully extend when the cam housing is removed. If the advice in the repair manual is followed, restarting the engine after rebuild will be difficult so it is best to empty them of oil before refitting by gently squeezing each in a vice several times with the oil hole downmost. For future reference, there is a service tool designed to allow camshaft removal without removing the cylinder head bolts.

Vauxhall/Opel's 8 valve 2 litre ohc engine, working from memory - the initial torque starting from the middle pair of bolts and working outwards in a spiral pattern is 18 lbft. This is followed by further tightening in stages of 60 degrees + 60 + 60. After thoroughly warming up and allowing at least 6 hours cooling time the bolts are tightened a further 30 - 60 degrees, depending on "feel". Stretched or corroded bolts should be replaced, all male and female threads should be thoroughly cleaned and lubricated as should the washers and under the bolt heads. Starting after rebuild is easier if the hydraulic tappets are emptied of oil prior to refitting. The current tightening specs are usually provided with the replacement gasket.

Clean carb or throttlbody w gumout n change airfiltr

It somewhat depends on which engine version is fitted but the Vauxhall/Opel ohc engines need the initial angular torquing of the cylinder head bolts and after a warm up and cool down cycle a further small tighten. You will of course have to obtain the exact values from the applicable engine data though this is usually provided with a replacement head gasket. After thoroughly cleaning of the parts including the female and male head bolt threads. Fit the new gasket and the head, etc. Preferably using new bolts but certainly replacing any corroded or stretched bolts, lubricate the threads and washers and fit the bolts and using a suitable torque wrench tighten in an outward spiral pattern to the initial figure (usually around 18 lb-ft). Using the same outward spiral pattern the bolts are then further tightened in four stages that is something like 60 degrees + 60 + 30 and then after thoroughly warming up the engine and allowing it to cool for at least 6 hours, tighten a further 30 degrees. No further tightening is required...

This could be a mechanical bind somewhere. However, you say that you put in a clutch kit. If you replaced the pressure plate, it is possible that the fingers are stiffer than your previous pressure plate. This would require more force to move the pedal.

Check the connections behind the gauge!

Not irrelevant - a high energy ignition system needs everything to be in good condition. If one or more of the spark plug leads isn't pushed fully home onto the spark plug or into the coil or distributor cap or is in any way defective, there is sufficient voltage available to jump the "gap" or defect and in doing so will rapidly burn the metal edges or the interior of the lead, distributor cap, rotor, coil or whatever, making the situation worse until the "defect" has become so bad the spark would rather take a different path to ground and a misfire will result. It isn't easy to push the leads fully home especially as the plug boots are close fitting and the act of pushing them on creates an air pressure inside that sometimes pushes them off again. I usually give the plug insulators and the inside of the plug boots a spray with silicone grease and sometimes I would work the boot back up the lead so I could see the terminal was fully home or slide a small screwdriver between the lead and boot to release the air pressure.

The starter turns but not the engine - the fault most likely is the starter motor; it isn't unknown for the pivot pin to fall out of the pinion housing... I have a feeling you meant to say the engine is cranking but not starting. Is the engine petrol or diesel? What have you checked so far?

Petrol or gasoline fumes or another type? A small coolant leak can create a strong odour, usually a spicy smell. A cooking battery smells rather acidic. Vauxhall/Opel fuel lines aren't the greatest and sometimes develop a small leak and this also applies to the fuel tank breather hoses - but these are possible problems only when regular maintenance isn't thoroughly carried out.