20 Most Recent 1992 Oldsmobile 88 Royale - Page 8 Questions & Answers

You will need to rebuild yours

Never install some elses used unit

Changing the ignition switch breaks the communication between the key,ignition,and TDM (theft deterrent module). With out these three parts communicating, the vehicle goes into antitheft mode and turns off the starter. Read about it thru this link, also offers ways to fix yourself. http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

23= Mat Sensor
41 and 44= ECM (Electronic Control Module)

Yes, your car has gone into antitheft mode. This happened because you put the non chipped key in. go to this link. Do the "quick fix" 10 minute procedure with the correct key. If this does not fix the problem, do it 3 times with out trying to start it in between cycles. If this does not work, id be looking into the bypass procedures listed. Bypassing is extremely less expensive than fixing. http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

There should be two sets of engine mounts: The first set are up front, near the radiator, probably an inch or two back on the engine. The next set should be supporting the very back end of the engine, right in front of the transmission. If it is only from 50-60 MPH, not going slower, not going faster, I would also look at transmission mounts, while you're at it. A friend's jeep does that. What you may also check, and this one is, like you've noticed, far less likely, make sure the injectors and the spark plugs are all functioning fine. Unlikely that's the problem, but one never knows...

Sounds like a problem with the fuel pump components in the fuel tank. Especially look at the small rubber hose that connects the pump to the pickup tube for being loose and sucking air. The fuel pumps are well noted to start to fail around 40,000 miles.

About this, just need to be extremly careful as the replacement pumps usually come with new electrical connectors and must be utilized for installation on the new pumps as the old connectors tend to not fit correctly and can become loose thus causing erratic pump operation. GM has a lousy reputation on their fuel pumps as it is the gas in the tank that is used to keep the pump from overheating due to the high speed operation of the pump and I have seen numerous pumps fail when the fuel level gets below 1/8 tank of fuel.

Remember that intermittent faults are very diffcult to diagnose, but testitng one to one devices could be good results. Also, could be vacuum leak or vacuum hoses in wrong places. Scanned the ECU, some fault code stored there maybe.

Keep us updated.

HI car24milt, welcome, the remote key has a battery in it, replace it. OK!!

Look for a service valve on the accumulator tank on pass side of vehicle in front of the firewall.

With car turned OFF, turn on blower. Should not work. Take wire going to blower and wire it to negative of battery. Pull the fuse you think is it. Check both terminals of fuse socket for a ground. One will show. Pull the wire from the negative post of the battery and it will clear. There is your fuse.

For What???????????Electrical, Engine, Fuel, Body, ECT

Nope

The master cylinder is under the drivers floorboard. you can find it under the car by following the brake pedals linkage. These cars have only one ( circuit) for all four wheels. Any wheel cyclinder or brake line can fail anywhere and all the brakes go out. If you don't see brake fluild on the inside side of any of the tires with one person pulling the brakes get under the car and you may hare or even see the leak. If it's been awhile since the leak started you may have to put it more break fluild and pump to see the leak. Or do what they aways did in the old days when mechanics were paid the lease of any trade and take it all aprt and change and servive( rebuild) everything. Rebuild and master cyclinder and renew any bushings in the pedal linkage. ( this stuff may be very hard to buy) replace all the medal break lines and any rubber lines too. ( again hard to find) rebuild all the wheel cyclinders, and reline all the break shoes and resurface all the drums( turn them) these days you will have to settel for rebuilt or replica new wheel cycluinders and master cyclinder, compleate break shoes as the ( art ) of relined and cam grinding the shoes to match the radius of the turned drum is old school and so are the tools and the parts to do them. The car is going to be driven any in traffic with moern cars even a little op fot the new parts and grin and bear it as to the prices will and may be outrageous. Wreak it as you fooled around OK try some of the crash damage parts you'll wish you did it all. The master cylinder will have a bolt headed cap that may be very hard to remove as it'll be rusted on. Heat it if you have to take your time as the things you break may be very hard to come up with even used. The bracket that the masteer bolts onto the bottom of the car may be rusted gone and as you press on the pedel the master may be just moving out of the way. The last time I drove a 53 wast in 1974 and all of these things happened to me so it's alot of time since then so all the problems are likly to be magnified. Be careful as all repars need not be hurried as doing any thing over may be cosly and even more time comsuming.

no, they have nothing to do with each other-the fact that it will not go into overdrive is either a shift cable adjustment or a shift solenoid. Try disconnecting the negative battery cable for 5 minutes to allow the ECU to relearn sensor inputs, and see if you have overdrive-if not, there is a possibility that the tv cable for the shifter and it's relationship to the pawl on the trans has changed-for most driving, OD is not needed, but if you do a lot of highway driving, you should find a good trans mechanic near you since it may require replacing the OD lockup solenoid

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome to the site. Make sure your emergency brake is not activated. Make sure the brake lights are not out also.

Depending on mileage...I would go with the spark plugs...AND spark plug wires first...these are a wear item, and should be replaced per mileage...The other sensors can be checked for free at your local parts store..(Diagnostic)_ .Hope this helps.

Sounds like a severe misfire to me. This is caused by a cylinder that is misfiring for one reason or another - most likely, several cylinders are misfiring due to a vacuum leak.

I would connect a 12v test light to the wire that goes to the fuel gauge at the connector near the fuel tank. With the ignition on the fuel gauge should go to full. If it does you'll have to take the sender back out and check it. If it doesn't you have a problem with the gauge or wiring. I suspect you'll find you have a sender problem.

you probably have a collapsed brake hose that is not releasing the brake fluid back to the master cylinder.