20 Most Recent 1992 Oldsmobile 88 Royale - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Yes, it could be... Remove the air cleaner hose and spray WD40 or starting fluid in the hose that goes to the engine...Have someone start the vehicle.. Spray short bursts into the hose while car runs.. If it continues to run while you are spraying and then stops when you stop.. you probably do have a fuel issue.. Hope this helps..

Electric Fan(s) not working, Checking the fan(s), relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Verify that the fans work by unplugging them and run jumper wires to the fan(s) from the battery. If they run, your problem lies elsewhere. If either does not run, it's the motor.
Next thing to check is for power at the fan connectors. You have to be cautious doing this because the engine needs to be running and warm if not almost hot, and the A/C also needs to be on. (Both must be on and running for the duration of this checklist.) The A/C fan is on the passenger side and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. It is also the secondary engine cooling fan and should cycle on and off in relation to engine temperature. Use a test light to probe the two wires on each fan. If you find power the fan motor(s) is/are probably bad. If there is no power to fans, roll up your sleeves!

You didn't mention the year or model so this will be generic. The temperature switch is usually located above the oil filter. If the dash gage is working, its probably OK. Next is the Fan Control Temperature Sensor, located IN or CLOSE to the thermostat housing. You will find out if it is working later is this checklist. I just wanted you to know where it is. Next is the relays and fuse's. Usually located in the engine compartment on the passenger side power distribution box. You will need to remove anything over the cover to open it. If the fuses are OK, tap on the relays or pull them out and push back in. If the fans are still not running, pull a relay and probe the socket terminals for power. Two of the terminals should have power, usually criss-cross from each other. One hot terminal is battery power, and the other is the "signal" voltage which triggers the relay to send 12V battery power to the fan. This signal voltage comes from the sensor at the thermostat. If only one terminal has power, then I would replace the thermostat sensor if not both.

Hope this is clear as mud! and helps! Please let me know what you find.

LOCATE YOU AIR DRYER ( LONG MEDAL CANISER WITH TWO MEDAL LINES COMING OUT THE SIDE OF IT) THE ORFACE TUB IS LOCATED TIN THE MEDAL LINE

those fusible links need to be cut off and replaced and soldered in or plugged in with male and female connectors

Hello and welcome to FIxYa!
You may want to check on the vents for it can be closed half way. If the vents are good then the problem will surely be on the blower itself. It can be worn out that's why the blower motor blows weak. Once replaced I believe you'll be good.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

YOU WILL SEE A PULLY THAT LOOKS LIKE IT ON AN ARM PUT A SOCKET IN THE NUT AND EATHER PULL FOR WARD OR PULL BACK AND IT WILL ROTATE TO ALLOW THE BELT TO COME OFF. THEN REMOVE ALTERNATORMAKESURE TO TAKE POSITIVE CABLE OFF BATTERY SO YOU DONT SHORT CERCATE THE SYSTEM.

you need to find someone who knows how to bleed a brake system and have them do that on your car.

the reservoir is usually tuck in under firewall on pasenger side of car

Thanks for using FixYa.

Inspect sockets for melting.

after removing the steering wheel and turn signal assy. there are teo slots (might have thin layer of metal blocking it, screw driver moves it) the slot closest to the key is the slot, I have seen them in the second one but thats wrong, you need something thin and strong, push ip and pull the cylinder out