20 Most Recent 1998 Mitsubishi Lancer Questions & Answers

Could be several issues. 1. the two piece main crank pulley could be separating: replace it. 2. The transmission could be loose: check the four bolts that secure it to the engine. A loose transmission causes lots of vibration and hard changes because the main shaft misalignment,.Sometimes transmission bolts actually vibrate out. 3. The clutch is failing and will need to be replaced.

Tune up will take care of this.

check the clutch plate

Mitsubishi Lancer OBD 2 port is on lower right corner dash; next to console kick panel

Bad controller or a shorted wire to the clutch. Pull the fuse or relay to turn it off. Fixing it takes a volt /ohm meter and tracing wires. Electrical schematics help also.

So many things hard to list them all. Vacuum leaks, tune up parts, bad ignition module, clogged cat converter or muffler, low fuel pressure, leak between MAF and throttle body, bad coolant temp sensor, leaking head gasket, others.

The most common problem is the resistors on the switch assembly (so replace the the switch assembly) One or more have burned out. You can test the motor itself. Pull the power connector from the fan assembly (behind the glove box) and run power from a battery. If the fan motor does not run, it's dead. Find a spare at a wrecker.

With some difficulty ... the cable runs inside the front inner guard box section down to the firewall and into the cabin. You will likely have to remove the LHS headlamp, quarter light, disconnect the front bumper cover from the guard panel, and then remove the guard panel.

Cut the handle end off, use gorilla tape to attach new cable to the old one, then very carefully pull it through the firewall.

If your not particular mechanically inclined, than do not attempt this. You probably will not have the tools. I would go to a friend who happens to have a LOT of mechanical tools and ask for help. This is something that would be simple for someone good with their hands.

The 1.5L was never a power house, but the first checks should be * check if the ECU is throwing an error code. If so this is a vital clue. * verify the cam belt alignment. This can slip a few teeth and cause all sorts of problems * verify the timing (assuming your 98 has a distributor or cam position sensor adjustment) * Pull the injectors and soak them in injector cleaner. * clean or replace the air filter. * Check the coolant temp sensor (on the thermostat housing) does not have damaged wires. This sensor is vital for the ECU to decide what timing and mixture is needed.

Well, there are wreckers in your area that may have one. For new, try rockauto.com

If you are pouring coolant into the radiator and it wont get full, then there is a problem. Seeing as the coolant system is of a finite value, one cannot put an infinite amount of water into it. I would venture a guess that if you pulled the dipstick out to check your oil level, you might find out where the water went. If you find water in the oil, then you have a cracked head, cracked block, or leaking head gasket. If not there, check the transmission fluid since many vehicles have a transmission oil cooler inside the radiator.