20 Most Recent 2007 Mazda CX-7 Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. You can't Disarm the system, but there are a number of ways to try and reset it. https://www.justanswer.com/mazda/e6z2i-believe-mazda-cx-7-locked-security-open.html https://www.vehiclehistory.com/questions/how-do-i-perform-the-2007-mazda-cx-7-security-system-reset-204995 and more using the door lock and the key. https://www.google.com/search?q=2007+mazda+cx-7+security+system+reset ..

The torque the engine produces, or a bolt torque? year make model engine torque year make model (the part) torque specs https://www.google.com/search?q=2007+mazda+cx7+engine+torque+specs ..

Somewhere like AutoZone will loan you a fuel rail pressure gauge. Somewhere on it there is a test port. You screw it on, and test in two ways. 1. pressure with the key turned on. 2. Pressure turning over. Compare against specs.

look at the links and decide if your capable but check and or

1. Replace the evaporative pump and fuse.
2. Replace the evaporative pump relay.
3. Repair the evaporative pump connector pins for corrosion, melted, or loose connections. first

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p2402-obd-ii-trouble-code-evap-leak-detection-pump-control-circuit-high-by-jay-safford

I would check the cylinder compressions, sounds like you've already caused more damage, so a little more horrible noise won't matter

replace the transmission speed sensor

Just go to an auto parts store like NAPA or any other with your car info. Make, model, year, engine size and they will be able to look up and order the parts that you need.

Is the car in neutral/park? Not trying to be rude, but this happens more than you can imagine. 1. Test battery. If bad, replace. 2. Turn key while someone else taps on the starter. If it starts, replace the starter. If not.... 3. Check starter relay. If it is not clicking, replace it. If it is clicking.... 3. Put a pry bar and socket on the crank pulley bolt. If it won't move, you have a locked engine. If it moves.... 4. Test the neutral safety switch. If it's OK.... 4. Replace the starter.

I would see the dealer on this issue, this may be a built in problem and there may be a dealer bulletin on it.

Blown piston rod or lifter

if you have to ask, I think you better buy a repair manual or take it to a shop.

With the number of steps required to do this, your best bet is to purchase a Haynes manual (or equivalent). This way you have photos of the procedure plus all the correct torque spec for all the bolts when reinstalling.

Hi! Actually the timing chain should last for AT LEAST 100.000 miles, but I would say for even more miles. Now my questions, just to give you the right answer: 1. Do you have at least 100.000 miles under the hood? 3. Which engine do you have in the car? 2. Why do you want to change it? Do you hear a kind of rattling sound coming from the engine? If yes, then you probably just have to correct the tensing of the chain. It is getting tensioned automatically but sometimes the tensioner of the timing belt gets bad, in this case you have to change only the tensioner itself. But if you are around 100.000 or more miles, I'd change the chain too. Please give me a bit more details so I can help you, I can upload also a documentation how to change the bad timing chain tensioner and the chain too. Changing the CHAIN is not that easy as you do not have too much place to work, and you have to dismount many things. But again, just answer the 2 questions and I'll send you the correct instructions. Cheers, Steve Dave

The starter on most cars has to be under the car next to the transmission. It has to be close to the engine flywheel. Hope this helps.

could be time for a new timing set. depends how many miles are on the engine and if something has gone wrong. they don't last forever and the belts need to be change every 75k to 100k to save doing damage to the valves and piston if it were to break. the chains will last a lot longer but still wear out

valve cover