Top 20 1970 Jensen Interceptor Questions & Answers

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwj51Nbc4ryCAxW6gf0HHVt2DfQQFnoECBAQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.purkeys.net%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2019%2F05%2FInverter-300-Watt-User-Guide.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1BAYGo2bHmol735LGv6PgN&opi=89978449

There's a website that has all this information about all this and manuals everything totally free there are many actually but I personally like few .. let me know if u need help thanks must try www.reliable-store.com

Sounds like you need to land the Key On Power to a different point.

Check the ground wire to the radio and speaker because it is probably loose. You may have to solder your connections to the radio and speakers.

check with a or your medical doctor

You should be using line out from your aftermarket stereo if using the vehicle's existing amp. Then again, you may choose to bypass it, depending on the power being put out by your new stereo.In both the Expedition and Excursion, the sound systems are different than smaller Fords. The Eddie Bauer typically had the Premium sound system, and the wiring can get tricky with those. You want to make sure it's done right so you don't short out and damage the amp circuit in your new stereo.If all you're using is the existing speakers, then go ahead and bypass.

3.4L or 3.8L not told. hot wired the starter solenoid you meant (a SOP act that) all techs do. and good input if yes. when it failed to crank the next act is SCAN the PCM and let it tell you why it blocks cranking I sure will. OBD2 scan tools any. we check all fuses next. be a shame if 50 cent ATC fuse is cause. Battery voltage does not drop below 11vcd cranking, 12.6v is charged (rested voltage) well if the starter is dead fix that first, and the automatic trans, blocks the cranking , to the starter if the car has bad PRNDL switch (fails in park) or alram in the cluster is active is it? blinkers are last, you can still hand signal by law so fix the starter first. no need to blink if can't drive or worse stranded with dead starter , how fun is that>? Chevy. (no starter or GEN replacements right? with battery still connected. sure. not done wrong the starter runs by the CRANK relay. under hood relay and Logic runs its coil inside said relay via, BCM etc. PCM crank fuse not blown.at N/M 11 slot. the key switch at start , sends 12vdc to CRANK FUSE and that goes to PCM. the PCM is told to crank, the start. the car has tranny park cable if not calibrated, or bad, park does not happen and PCM sees that and will not crank the car with P/N switch showing wrong. 4T65t transmission must be fully in to park and not failing P/N switch not scanning the PCM first you miss all these facts. if you have the M/T box now is the time to fess up. really. here is the PCM connection to the A/T box the signals are GGGG or 0000 volts DC. if not the PCM block all cranking if you scanned the PCM you'd already know this. the PCM is smart to know that ******* codes from the switch must set a DTC error. as you can see that it is 4 times safer to not to drive over the kids. amazing no? its al here to read https://eautorepair.net/Checkout/ActivationPlan/2004/Chevrolet/Monte%20Carlo

You need to determine where the noise is coming from. Check your power steering fluid and make sure it is full. Remove your serpentine belt and see if the noise goes away, That will let you know if it is coming from the engine or an accessory or pulley bearing. If the noise goes away whith the belt removed, check the alternator bearing and pulley bearings. If the noise is still there whith the belt removed, that means it is either in the engine or transmission.

codes are OBDll and are available on line free https://www.obd-codes.com/p0412 https://repairpal.com/obd-ii-code-p0412-secondary-air-injection-system-switching-valve-a-circuit

You have a leak somewhere on your system .

Let's troubleshoot this problem step by step: Linkage Adjustment: The issue might be related to the linkage between the shift lever and the transmission. Sometimes, the linkage can become bent, broken, or jammed. Inspect the linkage carefully. Look for any signs of damage or debris that might be obstructing its movement. If you find any bent or broken parts, consider repairing or replacing them. Also, ensure that the linkage is properly lubricated according to the user manual. Purging the Transaxle: Try purging the transaxle to ensure smooth operation. Follow these steps: Place the mower on a level surface away from any obstacles. Turn off the engine and apply the parking brake. Disengage the transaxle by moving the freewheel control to the disengaged position. Check for Mechanical Obstructions: Inspect the area around the gear shift lever and the transmission for any obstructions.

Where are you seeing SPAM? The Admins and IT Teams remove every bit of spam we can find. We also use some highly advanced solutions now. You may be seeing historical spam, but shouldn't be seeing anything recent. Please report any spam. All question need full 'make model (what it is)' for an aftermarket alarm, and 'year make model' for a factory alarm. A K9 is a dog? Generic solutions only. You have a lock module issue. https://www.google.com/search?q=K9+alarm+doesn%27t+lock+my+car+doors+but+can+unlock+them Or an auto electrician with a professional grade scan scan tool computer can diagnose all electrical issues in about 30 minutes, all the modules and all the sensors IF it is a factory item. Note that an auto electrician is NOT a mechanic If it is aftermarket you need an Alarm Installer. https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me ..

Question edited for clarity, and spelling of maker. I added 'Radio Code', I guess that is what you are after? No problem. Here you go. https://www.fixya.com/support/r29874205-need_vehicle_radio_code ..

The transmission control module is inside of the PCM which is located

What is the make, model, fuel type and engine size of your vehicle? These are both Misfire codes. Cylinder 2 and 3 are not burning fuel correctly. This could be caused by a few different things. It could be bad spark plugs, bad spark plug wires, faulty coil packs or faulty fuel injectors. Please comment below with your vehicle details and I'll try to help you more.

The pump itself does not cause codes. A bad fuel pump will alter the fuel to air mixture going to the engine and this is what will generate the fault codes.

A mechanic's scan tool would lbe necessary to check all the modules. The problelm could be either in the wiring or the control modules. There is also the chance the dimmer switch could be turned off or defective. Or, the electrical part of the ignition switch could be problematic. Because of the possibilities, use of the scan tool would seem the route to go.

I have a crow-footed prybar that I can hook the master cylinder studs and leverage it to turn, but they do make a special tool that slides over the studs and has a 3/4" nut for a socket and break-over bar to accomplish the same thing.

The traction control uses the braking system to work. If you have repaired the tyre the issue could be with a sensor for the traction control system itself. Do you have any warning lights on the dashboard? Have you had the vehicle plugged into an OBD2 Diagnostic Scanner? This could give Trouble Codes as clues to any possibly faulty sensors causing the issue. If you have to pay for this service ask at 4 or 5 different places as prices can be VERY different!

'year make model' in all questions please, first 3 words. https://www.google.com/search?q=Vortec+4.2+shuts+down+at+idle ..