2008 Jaguar XJR 4.0 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

ithink p1508 is a dealer fault code and relates to a air leak after the supercharger ie a intercooler/hoses problem you need someone with jag knowledge locally to help you

Doesn't have pass lock anti-theft system .What's missing spark or fuel ? May have some other form of anti - theft system . Your best bet take it to a specialty shop that does Jags

There are many possible causes why it won't start, but when it was not used for a long time I would check the fuel line. Only one bubble of air can stop the free flow of fuel. Or a dried out dirty filter in the line. Try to suck the fuel up to the fuel pump and check if the pump really delivers fuel.

Hi Stick a garden hose up the heater pipe, if you get water out of the other heater hose its not blocked

Your burning cheap gas,use high test gas. and you might have to advance your distributor

Yes that is normal. The ECM has no reason to let the engine rev higher than 3000 RPM when in Park, so it starts randomly cutting spark to different cylinders. That is why it shudders.

If both lights went out check for a faulty headlamp switch

try tighting the mounting bolts in behind the rear valance plate also if u can check mounting brakets inside rear bumper goodluck

• That has to be frustration. A couple things.

1. First thing is are you using new OEM alternator? Or a rebuilt or re-manufactured alternator? There can be differences. I always recommend a new OEM rather than a rebuilt alternator when these issues arise. Just to get out of the way the quality of the alternator you are using now. Make sure that is not an issue.

• It's obvious for some reason your cars charging is malfunctioning for some reason. Once you are sure that the alternator is good and is actually functioning properly then we look at why the voltage is dropping. You should have 14 Volts - 14.5 Volts at all times no matter what. When put under a load it may drop to 13 Vots or 12.5 Volts for just a couple seconds and then pop right back up to normal running voltage. So your alternator OR the charging system in general, for some reason, is not charging properly at all weather under a load or not.
• An alternator MUST maintain an output of 13.8 Volts MINIMUM to charge the battery.

1. First thing is to remove the serpentine belt and spin all the pulley and make sure they all turn free and with no hangups. If the alternators spinning is inhibited so to will the output to will be inhibited. All the pulleys should spin free but the crankshaft.

1. Next I need you to check all the heavy wiring under the hood. Check the battery cable and clamps real good. These big cables often rot way inside and become defective and you would never know it unless you inspected them real well. Check connections at the alternator and starter too. The big black ground cables going to the block. Look them over real real well and feel for breaks and if needed splice them back and look for greening (oxidation) of the cables. make sure to re insulate any spliced wiring real well with electrical tape.

1. Double check the battery again. If the battery has fallible ports the take a flat tool and carefully open the lids and fill with distilled water until full. Be real careful wihile doing this. Battery acid will eat anything including skin. Wash any off right away. Wear protective eye wear and gloves too when doing this.

• One of the things that may be the cause after all this is checked is that the PCM does regulate the alternator on this vehicle. If all the things above I have listed bring no change then you will need to have the PCM diagnosed by a Jaguar dealer or specialist because your PCM could in fact be the problem.

• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

Hi,

I do understand that there are some challenges that you are facing while smog test in CA. No check light is fine. That is how it should be. I can suggest you some points to be taken care to pass the smog test.

Please find them here:

http://www.chevycamaro.com/board/index.php?topic=273.0

Thanks

under the hood, there is a fusebox, in it are 4 things you need to look form, the high beam and low beam fuses, make sure the low beam is fine and not blown. Then the high beam relay and low beam relay. Swap the relays, you'll find that its reversed now if one of the relays needs replacing.

Under the cover of the fuse box is a diagram showing where everything is.

Wide tires are the cause of this issue. The width of the tires will also impact wet driving/aka hydroplaning as well.

under bonnet drivers side back of cylinder head is a electrical operated tap for the hot water going into the heater ,look here first ,then get back to me if you need anymore info as er indoors want the internet and iam being scorned to say the least sorry

The fuse must be in the main fuse box. The position of the fuses is normally marked on the inside of the fuse box cover and also in the owner's handbook. If you don't come right with these, work your way through the fuses looking for a blown one. To lessen your search the lighter fuse should be around 30 amps.

the OBD II port is under the steering column, just above your knees-by law it has to be within a couple feet of the steering column.

Hi
You can get the key unprogrammed and blank off ebay but you have to get the key programmed to the car's transponder. Some but very few independant locksmiths can do this but in most cases you will have to go to the dealer to get it programmed. if you need some details of a dealer near you send me your location and I will find you the best one locally.
Regards

Dan

CHECK TO SEE IF ALTERNATOR CHARGING BATTERY.CHECK BATTERY VOLTAGE AT BATTERY WITH VECHICLE RUNNING.SHOULD BE 13.5 TO 14.5 VOLTS.IF NOT.TENSIONER WRONG TYPE CAUSING DRIVE BELT TO SLIP.KEEPING ALTERNATOR FROM CHARGING BATTERY.

I simply opened the bonnet. Connected the battery charge positive to the + feed on the back of the alternator, connected the negative to the body. Turned it on, immediately the interior light comes on. Turn on the ignition press the cabin boot switch and it opens the boot. Charge battery as normal. Easy Peezy

A simple check for one of the most common causes of the problem you
described, is to watch the tachometer while cranking. If it does
not indicate the RPM and the needle sits near zero, the Crank Shaft
Position Sensor is bad. It is very easy to change.

When they are in the process of quitting entirely, they act like
they are heat sensitive and usually will allow you to drive 5 to 8
miles before quitting. Let the engine cool for an hour and it will
start and run for another 3 to 6 miles because it warmed up
quicker.

check fuel pump relay in boot make sure you hear the pump
charge the system when the key is turned to position 2, if not
sound check relay if sound check CPS or moisture in TPS base of
throttle body also check and clean all connectors under the
bonnet/hood on the engine.

Cars that are idle for a long time are often difficult to start.

One solution is to tow them in gear (not so hard on the battery).