20 Most Recent 2008 Jaguar XJ8 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Have someone check the fuel filler line for air or blockage.

The PO174 & PO171 go hand in hand. There is a lean fuel to air mixture. A disconnected vacuum line or if it has a hole in it. Check all lines make sure they are all connected and are in good condition. Air filter and air passages should not be blocked or dirty. The EGR differential pressure sensor might be bad. If the problem is not enough fuel, the underling cause may be a weak fuel pump, restricted fuel filter, leaky fuel pressure regulator or dirty fuel injectors. Usually a vehicle with 60,000 miles or more.Hope this has helped give you some possible cause to look at. Happy motoring!

It is probably your alternator and may be showing voltage but not enough amperage. Have it tested while the light is on and a good alternator will put out 1/3 of total rating. So if you have 120AMP alternator it should show 30-40AMP load with all lights on and blower motor on and engine at 2,000 RPM's. Make sure if it is an alternator issue you have the new one tested before installing.

It may be that you have some corrosion on the plug for the alternator. One of the leads affects the current going to the field, which then affects the output voltage of the alternator. You get a high resistance connection in this lead, it can cause the alternator to act funny. You can try spraying the plug to the alternator with some contact cleaner and see if that helps.

Does the battery light come on at specific times? ie, high RPM, whenever the dash fan is turned on high with the car at idle, etc... A common failure mode for this sort of problem is if you are getting the light with high RPMs (over 3,000), then odds are your alternator is on its way out. If you are getting the light when you turn on the dash fan (large electrical load), then odds are you either have a bad alternator or the wire feeding the field of the alternator is having issues.

Keep us updated.

If it is a Stick shift, any Manufacturer Grade EP 80. The choice of Mineral or Synthetic Oil, depends on your Budget. As an Auto transmission Dexron 3.
Regards, DT

It will be cheaper to go to a tyre shop where any good outlet has special tools to destructively remove locking wheel nuts without the key. Then just buy a new set of locking wheel nuts to replace them with. Even if you knew who manufactured them you'd need the pattern number and proof of ownership and you'd find that a spare key often costs more than a complete new set of locking nuts.

You can buy so called "universal" locking wheel nut removers yourself quite cheaply on ebay, but they often fail to work and can damage your wheels and then leave the nut far harder to remove using the correct and expensive trade-only tools.

Burned out the old bushing, cleaned up the shock mount and pressed in the new bushing using two 1 and 1/4 sockets and a bolt and nut tightning to press the new bushing in. Worked like a charm. Better than Jaguars solution of removing the shock. Oh yes, light grease on the bushing and shock mount. Paul

should be a small reservoir under the hood will be a little dipstick in it when you remove cap

you spent who knows what to buy a jag. go to eBay and spend about 10 bucks and buy a service manual on CD. you will need it frequently and it will save you the trouble of asking someone else to do your looking for you.

What is the question? just post it here.

Hi, I guess I'm next at bat. So if it sounds different now, is it turning slower? I'm wondering if the starter has blown a winding. The other possibility is a low battery. Have you tried jumping the car? If it's still turning fast but sounds different, it may be the valve timing has slipped a bit. I can tell you how to check that if you suspect that is the problem.

Jeff

Stuck thermostat. Bad head gasket?

your window motor on the driverside may be bad. or the switch that cotrols it may have a bad connection. does it hum or anything when you try to roll it down? even a bad widow motor will sometimes hum like it's trying to work. is it frozen on the outside of the window? if so you can unthaw it with de icer. if fuses are good, it has to be bad switch,or bad window motor. thank you for choosing fixya.com

plug a booster pack into the lighter and try opening the trunk

There is a possibility that there is an object in between, creating pressure from inside so the latch is stuck engaging the striker. (these objects may be the carpet, wires, the body seal, etc)

First: Push down the trunk while you unlock it.(while you doing this you may listen a mechanical click that means that latch release the striker.)

Second: At the same moment you listen the opening noise, release the push down pressure and pull up the trunk open.( perform this until you achieve the right timing the latch job is to comeback and engage the striker so do it several times).

Another scenario if you have an electronic actuator.

First make sure you that when you press the remote or switch for the trunk there is a little click, if there is a click use the technique above push trunk lid and at the same moment that clicks pull up the lid releasing the pressure down.

And the last option almost all the vehicles had the option to access the trunk from the back seat, and almost all vehicles have a release handle to bypass mechanical latch or electronic actuator. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/flavio_517b938f50183b92