20 Most Recent 2007 Honda Jazz 1.4i - Page 8 Questions & Answers

If you getting codes for the same thing on both sides of the engine you'll need to look at the parts before the fuel and air enter the engine. You need to look at the air intake system as well as the fuel parts. I'm assuming the air filter is new and clean? Sometimes the fix is that easy.Have you checked and cleaned the MAF sensor, (Mass Air Flow Sensor). This reads air flow levels into the engine and uses it to adjust fuel levels going to the engine.*Note* When you clean the MAF sensor use the correct cleaning spray and DO NOT go poking around inside the main opening. The MAF assembly uses a very fine wire as part of the sensor and this is VERY easy to damage.

The yaw rate sensor on a 2011 Honda Odyssey is typically located in the center of the vehicle, underneath the floorboard. Specifically, it can usually be found near the center of the vehicle, just behind the front seats and in front of the rear seats.

If you are having trouble locating the sensor, consult your vehicle's owner manual or consider taking your vehicle to a certified Honda mechanic for assistance. They should be able to help you locate and diagnose any issues with your vehicle's yaw rate sensor.

I hadwell take it back.to THEMsay you broke my ABS sensors.

car drives ok, even for say 30mins? while driving he charge/battery lamp glow?(cluster) seems like car battery is low. causing BCM and cluster to fail. make sure battery (main) is fully charged then scan the PCM for errors. at OBD2 DLC port. the cluster is acting up. and 2 causes DC power is tool low or cluster is failing on the network or key switch failure? check all fuses first"? look at cars wiring for rodent damage? scan it, or get it scanned or get it serviced

That year of car should have an immobilizer on it which means when you fob breaks you have to get a new one and have it reprogrammed at the dealership because the immobilized chip is in the fob

Is it throwing any codes for a specific cylinder? Is the multiple misfire the only code? Have you replaced the spark plugs and wires recently? If you haven't I would try that. As well as checking your air filter. If that doesn't fix your issue I would next try checking your fuel pressure to the fuel rail and checking cylinder compression

There could be a few potential causes for the dash gauges not working on your 2003 Honda Civic. Here are a few things to check:

1. Check the battery connections: Make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight. Loose or corroded connections can cause electrical issues.
2. Check the ground connections: Make sure the ground connections for the dash gauges are clean and tight. A bad ground connection can cause electrical issues.
3. Check the voltage regulator: The voltage regulator is responsible for regulating the voltage to the gauges. If it's faulty, it can cause the gauges to stop working.
4. Check the instrument cluster: It's possible that there's an issue with the instrument cluster itself. You may need to have it inspected by a mechanic.
5. Check for a blown fuse: Although you've checked the fuses already, it's possible that one of them has blown. Double-check the fuse for the instrument cluster to make sure it's not the issue.

If none of these solutions work, it's best to have a professional mechanic diagnose and repair the issue. They will be able to use specialized tools and equipment to identify the problem and find a solution.

All crankshaft pulleys have to be pulled to be able to take the cover off

dash HVAC heater fails. well there are only 2 causes. (macro viewed) engine bay or cab failures. engine is not hot 180F up. thermostat bad. we scan the PCM see PID data ECT is 150f and bingo bad stat. if stuck there. it is bad. end store and simple fix. new stat. all fuses checked for good. next is cause #2 cab parts failing in dash. heater box.

1. blower dead on high you never said it works/?
2. blend door struck on cold. bad damper hinge stuck or
3. bad blend door actuator motor dead.
4. dash controls bad.

there is a test for each case covered in the service manual, buy one>?

Do you mean the Crankshaft Position Sensor? https://www.google.com/search?q=1997+Honda+LX+Accord.crankshaft+position+sensor+wiring+diagram ..

not told does engine crank fast. keyed to crank.???? yes / no . if not say that first. the starter motor in a car is the best battery tester there is. so is starter dead./???????????? the IMMO on 90%of cars cuts fuel dead onlyl. on the 10% it cuts starter and fuel both dead many allow engine to run for 1 to10 seconds and stalls the IMMo can not be hacked, and is its A#1 top designed purpose to do that, to stop thieves dead. and works. all new cars have it and is mostly now mandated by laws. this car I think cranks if key is bad. but will not start all cars came with it new 2 new keys,working lost the 2nd.? we spend a huge amount of time here reading users guides to people lost. the manual is free to read. at any time , im reading yours now google found it is 1second flat and 1st hit. my posts are for USA cars only, nothing else ever. unless they beg, LOL the immo lamp is in the hot cold, fuel gauge port if the IP cluster i see a KEY icon there.it says read page 67 so I do. "This indicator comes on for a few seconds when you turn the ignition switch ON (II). It will then go off if you have inserted a properly-coded ignition key. If it is not a properly- coded key, the indicator will blink and the engine will not start (see page 81" shows 2 immo keys and 1 valet key new "If an improperly- coded key (or other device) is used, the engine's fuel system is disabled When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the Immobilizer System indicator should come on for a few seconds, then go out. If the indicator starts to blink, it means the system does not recognize the coding of the key. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), remove the key, reinsert it, and turn the switch to ON (II) again." do not have other immo keys near the ignition switch just 1 honda immo only, not even other cars IMMO keys.near, (as the manual said) and is true. or the keys go to a loggerheads war (radio signals clash) free guide https://www.manualslib.com/manual/832826/Honda-2003-Civic.html?page=81#manual

"All Honda engines are Interference except 3.0L & 3.2 which are Non-Interference."( but does not cover year 1990,) so is lie. (all means modern, not 1990) not told which 2.0L is there VIN or country. the names of gen3 car engines is here. IN USA (are you) we had the SOHC and DOHC engines. both,(options) they year some are. in Gas world, DOHC are mostly interference. there exceptions B20A/B20A1 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 160/143 PS (Japan/Europe) B20A3 - 2.0L SOHC 12v carb 104 hp North America B20A4 - 2.0L SOHC 12v carb 114 PS (84 kW)Global, except North America B20A5 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 135 hp (101 kW) North America (interference engine) B20A6 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 142 PS (104 kW) Oceania B20A7 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 150 PS (110 kW) Europe, New Zealand B20A8 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 133 PS (98 kW) Europe B20A9 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 140 PS (103 kW) Europe B21A - 2.1L DOHC PGM-FI 145 PS (107 kW) Japan (SI States) B21A1 - 2.1L DOHC PGM-FI 140 hp (104 kW) North America the truth is, we put on a new belt and do leak down test. if fails look for bent valves. NO belt there test. or super brave and by HAND only put crank and TDC mark 0 zero. at damper pulley edge scale turn the cam cog wheel (cam) by hand, with socket wrench feel of valves hit. ( all interference engines will) VVT on newer car is more complex answer but not here. there is always luck. belt slips a bit , retardds the cam and stalls before it hits. luck happens, like walking a cross a city street blind folded, I say why even ask, just do it. most DOHC engines with 10:1 compression ratio are interference, but if is the turbo version those are not. mostly, (vast engines types exist, and nobody knows that it seems) if you watch a 4cycle engine simulator see how the piston chases the exhaust valve closed the piston wins, on some engines it bends it. some engines with notched piston tops are free running engine. also honda's this old had the B20B swap put in. only you can read engine serials. b20b is interference. Do I have to say do not crank any engine for sure on any DOHC if the belt fails.(slips or snaps) do a leak down test. not cranking, my mazda mx5 had 1.8 Liter, free running, engine but was turbo version but no turbo fitted new. had low natural compression . see? One guy had DOHC engine and the PO wrecked the DOHC head and put on the SOHC head. (FREE RUNS) 33 YEARS OLD THINGS HAPPEN

no info generic answer you can at least give more info as to ---steering jerking--vehicle lurching while driving --stopping--turning ------engine---automatic--explain jerking-- and you should be able to get an answer that can help you

. There may be a problem with the ignition system or the fuel system. Have the car checked by a qualified mechanic.

Based on the information you provided, it seems that there may be a problem with the wiring or the connections in the car's electrical system. It is possible that the issue started when the license plate bulb was replaced, but it is difficult to say for certain without further investigation. Here are a few suggestions for troubleshooting the problem: Check the fuses: Start by checking the fuse box to see if any of the fuses related to the brake lights, reverse lights, or tail lights are blown. If you find any blown fuses, replace them and see if that resolves the issue. Inspect the wiring: Look for any visible signs of damage or wear to the wiring that connects to the brake lights, reverse lights, or tail lights. If you find any issues, such as frayed wires or loose connections, try repairing them to see if that resolves the problem. Check the bulbs: Make sure that all of the bulbs are the correct type and are installed properly. If any of the bulbs are burned out or not installed correctly, replace them and see if that fixes the issue. Take the car to a mechanic: If you are unable to troubleshoot the issue on your own, take the car to a reputable mechanic who can diagnose and repair the problem. Overall, it is important to address any issues with the car's brake lights, reverse lights, or tail lights as soon as possible to ensure that the car is safe to drive.

bad fuel now carb is clogged and filter.

You need a good auto-electrician to diagnose and fix that lot! What the P2422 code means. The P2422 diagnostic trouble code is an indication that the vent valve of the evaporative emissions control system (EVAP) is stuck closed. The EVAP system reduces harmful pollutants, generated by the engine combustion process, from being expelled into the environment.P2422 OBD-II Trouble Code: Evaporative Emissions Control ... https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/-p2422-obd-ii-trouble-code-evaporative-emissions-control-system-evap-vent-valve-stuck-closed-by-jamahl-walker#:~:text=What%20the%20P2422%20code%20means,being%20expelled%20into%20the%20environment. P0651 HONDA Code - Sensor Reference Voltage 'B' Circuit ... https://www.engine-codes.com > p0651_honda'P0651 HONDA code possible causes · Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) · ECM harness is open or shorted · ECM circuit poor electrical connection · Shorted sensor on ... https://www.engine-codes.com/p0651_honda.html P1454 HONDA Code Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Range ... https://www.autocodes.com > p1454_hondaOct 9, 2016 - 'P1454 HONDA code possible causes · Faulty Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor · Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor harness is open or shorted · Fuel Tank ... https://www.autocodes.com/p1454_honda.html The P2127 code means that the throttle or pedal position sensor switch E has a low input. The pedal position sensor is a sensor found on the gas pedal. The sensor tells the ECU when the gas pedal is depressed and how far it is depressed.

P2127 OBD-II Trouble Code: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor ...

The P2138 trouble code indicates that the Engine Control Module has detected a malfunction within the D and/or E circuits of the throttle position sensor.

P2138 OBD-II Trouble Code: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor ...

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Repositioning a carburetor on a 1996 Honda Accord V6 may involve a few steps. Here is a general guide on how to reposition a carburetor on a Honda Accord V6:

1. Disconnect the battery: Before you begin any work, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery to avoid electrical shock or damage to the electrical system.
2. Locate the carburetor: The carburetor is usually located on top of the engine and is connected to the air intake system.
3. Remove the air intake system: To access the carburetor, you may need to remove the air intake system that connects the carburetor to the air filter box.
4. Disconnect the fuel line: Once you have access to the carburetor, disconnect the fuel line that connects to the carburetor.
5. Disconnect the throttle cable: The throttle cable is usually connected to the carburetor and controls the throttle valve. Disconnect the throttle cable from the carburetor.
6. Remove the carburetor mounting bolts: The carburetor is usually mounted on the engine using bolts. Remove the mounting bolts that secure the carburetor to the engine.
7. Reposition the carburetor: Once the carburetor is loose, you can reposition it to your desired location. Make sure it is level and aligned with the other engine components.
8. Reinstall the carburetor: After repositioning the carburetor, reinstall it in the reverse order of the steps above. Tighten the mounting bolts, reconnect the throttle cable and fuel line, and reattach the air intake system.
9. Reconnect the battery: Finally, reconnect the battery and start the engine to check that the carburetor is working properly.

Note: If you are not experienced in car mechanics, it is recommended to seek professional help from a certified mechanic.

There are several potential causes for this issue. The most common is a faulty AC switch or a blown fuse. You should check the fuse first, and if it is blown, replace it. If the fuse is not the cause, you will need to check the AC switch, which may just need to be cleaned or replaced. In some cases, the issue may be caused by a bad AC compressor or air handler. You will need to have the vehicle diagnosed to find the exact cause.