20 Most Recent 2008 Honda Jazz 1.2 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

IS THIS QUESTION FORMED AS STATEMENT? WHY NOT ASK A QUESTION REAL..? WE SCAN THE PCM TO SEE IF SENSORS FAILL NOT GUESSING AND THEN INSTALLING IT THE WRONG WAY AND NOT SHIMMING THE GAP CORRECTLY GUESS IS A HUGE PITFALL, (A BAG OF SNAKES) BEST OF ALL TELL A PROBLEM FIRST AND ASK FOR HELP ON THAT. A WIN;/WIN THAT. NO HUNTS ARE FUN. SORRY.

NO ENGINE TOLD. NOT ULEV VERSION CAR. 4CLY OR V6 ENGINE? NO PROBLEM TOLD AT ALL JUST WILD GOOSE HUNT ENDLESS SEEN HERE, WHY POST LACKING A PROBLEM. SPEEDO DEAD. OR TRANSMISSION LATE TO SHIFT OR BOTH ABS LAMP GLOWING SCAN THE PCM SEE ERRORS NO TOLD HERE DTC ERRORS KIDS NOW CALL THROWS A CODE/? CEL LAMP GLOWING AND ALL IGNORED? that is because of 2 thing, not reading the service manual and #2 not scanning the PCM to see the error DTC and share it. no engine or country told nor what transmission is there and if car has ABS or auto or stick shifted manual transmission. sorry cars are not all cookie cutter same ever for sure on a world scale. THE SENSOR IS CALLED VSS1. OR OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR (A GEAR BOX) THE MANUAL (SEVICE) STATES Remove the fasteners that secure the VSS to the transaxle housing assembly. SPEED CIRCUIT E93 FOR A/T BOX COMES OUT OF PCM, AND RUNS CLUSTER, CRUISE ON M/T BOX HAS 3 PIN HALL SENSOR VSS TO E93 CKT THE A/T BOX CAR THE PCM RUNS THE ENGINE AND TRANNY THE PCM SHIFTS THE TRANNY VIA SOLINOIDS AND THIS TRANNY HAS 2 SPEED SENSORS TO THE PCM THE PCM GETS SPEED PIN D10 SPEED SENSOR AND CONVERTS IT TO TRUE SPEED AND SENDS THAT OUT(A9PIN) TO ALL THINGS ON CAR THAT NEEDS SPEED DATA. CALLED E93 TO CLUSTER, AND CRUISE AND ABS. ON M/T BOX IS IS JUST SENSOR ON THE REAR OF THE BOX 3PIN SENSOR. LEARN TO SCAN THE PCM FIRST, NOT GUESS WHAT'S WRONG

this is for the 200 but same for 08 --------------http://www.hondampe.com.au/docs/owning_a_honda/owners_manuals/motorcycles/TRX420TE-FE-FPE-2010-31HP48300.pdf-

The noise above the glove box might be your blower motor for the heater fan. When they start failing, you sometimes have to tap them hard to get them started.

If you getting codes for the same thing on both sides of the engine you'll need to look at the parts before the fuel and air enter the engine. You need to look at the air intake system as well as the fuel parts. I'm assuming the air filter is new and clean? Sometimes the fix is that easy.Have you checked and cleaned the MAF sensor, (Mass Air Flow Sensor). This reads air flow levels into the engine and uses it to adjust fuel levels going to the engine.*Note* When you clean the MAF sensor use the correct cleaning spray and DO NOT go poking around inside the main opening. The MAF assembly uses a very fine wire as part of the sensor and this is VERY easy to damage.

The yaw rate sensor on a 2011 Honda Odyssey is typically located in the center of the vehicle, underneath the floorboard. Specifically, it can usually be found near the center of the vehicle, just behind the front seats and in front of the rear seats.

If you are having trouble locating the sensor, consult your vehicle's owner manual or consider taking your vehicle to a certified Honda mechanic for assistance. They should be able to help you locate and diagnose any issues with your vehicle's yaw rate sensor.

I hadwell take it back.to THEMsay you broke my ABS sensors.

car drives ok, even for say 30mins? while driving he charge/battery lamp glow?(cluster) seems like car battery is low. causing BCM and cluster to fail. make sure battery (main) is fully charged then scan the PCM for errors. at OBD2 DLC port. the cluster is acting up. and 2 causes DC power is tool low or cluster is failing on the network or key switch failure? check all fuses first"? look at cars wiring for rodent damage? scan it, or get it scanned or get it serviced

That year of car should have an immobilizer on it which means when you fob breaks you have to get a new one and have it reprogrammed at the dealership because the immobilized chip is in the fob

Is it throwing any codes for a specific cylinder? Is the multiple misfire the only code? Have you replaced the spark plugs and wires recently? If you haven't I would try that. As well as checking your air filter. If that doesn't fix your issue I would next try checking your fuel pressure to the fuel rail and checking cylinder compression

There could be a few potential causes for the dash gauges not working on your 2003 Honda Civic. Here are a few things to check:

1. Check the battery connections: Make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight. Loose or corroded connections can cause electrical issues.
2. Check the ground connections: Make sure the ground connections for the dash gauges are clean and tight. A bad ground connection can cause electrical issues.
3. Check the voltage regulator: The voltage regulator is responsible for regulating the voltage to the gauges. If it's faulty, it can cause the gauges to stop working.
4. Check the instrument cluster: It's possible that there's an issue with the instrument cluster itself. You may need to have it inspected by a mechanic.
5. Check for a blown fuse: Although you've checked the fuses already, it's possible that one of them has blown. Double-check the fuse for the instrument cluster to make sure it's not the issue.

If none of these solutions work, it's best to have a professional mechanic diagnose and repair the issue. They will be able to use specialized tools and equipment to identify the problem and find a solution.

All crankshaft pulleys have to be pulled to be able to take the cover off

dash HVAC heater fails. well there are only 2 causes. (macro viewed) engine bay or cab failures. engine is not hot 180F up. thermostat bad. we scan the PCM see PID data ECT is 150f and bingo bad stat. if stuck there. it is bad. end store and simple fix. new stat. all fuses checked for good. next is cause #2 cab parts failing in dash. heater box.

1. blower dead on high you never said it works/?
2. blend door struck on cold. bad damper hinge stuck or
3. bad blend door actuator motor dead.
4. dash controls bad.

there is a test for each case covered in the service manual, buy one>?

Do you mean the Crankshaft Position Sensor? https://www.google.com/search?q=1997+Honda+LX+Accord.crankshaft+position+sensor+wiring+diagram ..

not told does engine crank fast. keyed to crank.???? yes / no . if not say that first. the starter motor in a car is the best battery tester there is. so is starter dead./???????????? the IMMO on 90%of cars cuts fuel dead onlyl. on the 10% it cuts starter and fuel both dead many allow engine to run for 1 to10 seconds and stalls the IMMo can not be hacked, and is its A#1 top designed purpose to do that, to stop thieves dead. and works. all new cars have it and is mostly now mandated by laws. this car I think cranks if key is bad. but will not start all cars came with it new 2 new keys,working lost the 2nd.? we spend a huge amount of time here reading users guides to people lost. the manual is free to read. at any time , im reading yours now google found it is 1second flat and 1st hit. my posts are for USA cars only, nothing else ever. unless they beg, LOL the immo lamp is in the hot cold, fuel gauge port if the IP cluster i see a KEY icon there.it says read page 67 so I do. "This indicator comes on for a few seconds when you turn the ignition switch ON (II). It will then go off if you have inserted a properly-coded ignition key. If it is not a properly- coded key, the indicator will blink and the engine will not start (see page 81" shows 2 immo keys and 1 valet key new "If an improperly- coded key (or other device) is used, the engine's fuel system is disabled When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the Immobilizer System indicator should come on for a few seconds, then go out. If the indicator starts to blink, it means the system does not recognize the coding of the key. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), remove the key, reinsert it, and turn the switch to ON (II) again." do not have other immo keys near the ignition switch just 1 honda immo only, not even other cars IMMO keys.near, (as the manual said) and is true. or the keys go to a loggerheads war (radio signals clash) free guide https://www.manualslib.com/manual/832826/Honda-2003-Civic.html?page=81#manual

"All Honda engines are Interference except 3.0L & 3.2 which are Non-Interference."( but does not cover year 1990,) so is lie. (all means modern, not 1990) not told which 2.0L is there VIN or country. the names of gen3 car engines is here. IN USA (are you) we had the SOHC and DOHC engines. both,(options) they year some are. in Gas world, DOHC are mostly interference. there exceptions B20A/B20A1 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 160/143 PS (Japan/Europe) B20A3 - 2.0L SOHC 12v carb 104 hp North America B20A4 - 2.0L SOHC 12v carb 114 PS (84 kW)Global, except North America B20A5 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 135 hp (101 kW) North America (interference engine) B20A6 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 142 PS (104 kW) Oceania B20A7 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 150 PS (110 kW) Europe, New Zealand B20A8 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 133 PS (98 kW) Europe B20A9 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 140 PS (103 kW) Europe B21A - 2.1L DOHC PGM-FI 145 PS (107 kW) Japan (SI States) B21A1 - 2.1L DOHC PGM-FI 140 hp (104 kW) North America the truth is, we put on a new belt and do leak down test. if fails look for bent valves. NO belt there test. or super brave and by HAND only put crank and TDC mark 0 zero. at damper pulley edge scale turn the cam cog wheel (cam) by hand, with socket wrench feel of valves hit. ( all interference engines will) VVT on newer car is more complex answer but not here. there is always luck. belt slips a bit , retardds the cam and stalls before it hits. luck happens, like walking a cross a city street blind folded, I say why even ask, just do it. most DOHC engines with 10:1 compression ratio are interference, but if is the turbo version those are not. mostly, (vast engines types exist, and nobody knows that it seems) if you watch a 4cycle engine simulator see how the piston chases the exhaust valve closed the piston wins, on some engines it bends it. some engines with notched piston tops are free running engine. also honda's this old had the B20B swap put in. only you can read engine serials. b20b is interference. Do I have to say do not crank any engine for sure on any DOHC if the belt fails.(slips or snaps) do a leak down test. not cranking, my mazda mx5 had 1.8 Liter, free running, engine but was turbo version but no turbo fitted new. had low natural compression . see? One guy had DOHC engine and the PO wrecked the DOHC head and put on the SOHC head. (FREE RUNS) 33 YEARS OLD THINGS HAPPEN

no info generic answer you can at least give more info as to ---steering jerking--vehicle lurching while driving --stopping--turning ------engine---automatic--explain jerking-- and you should be able to get an answer that can help you

. There may be a problem with the ignition system or the fuel system. Have the car checked by a qualified mechanic.

Based on the information you provided, it seems that there may be a problem with the wiring or the connections in the car's electrical system. It is possible that the issue started when the license plate bulb was replaced, but it is difficult to say for certain without further investigation. Here are a few suggestions for troubleshooting the problem: Check the fuses: Start by checking the fuse box to see if any of the fuses related to the brake lights, reverse lights, or tail lights are blown. If you find any blown fuses, replace them and see if that resolves the issue. Inspect the wiring: Look for any visible signs of damage or wear to the wiring that connects to the brake lights, reverse lights, or tail lights. If you find any issues, such as frayed wires or loose connections, try repairing them to see if that resolves the problem. Check the bulbs: Make sure that all of the bulbs are the correct type and are installed properly. If any of the bulbs are burned out or not installed correctly, replace them and see if that fixes the issue. Take the car to a mechanic: If you are unable to troubleshoot the issue on your own, take the car to a reputable mechanic who can diagnose and repair the problem. Overall, it is important to address any issues with the car's brake lights, reverse lights, or tail lights as soon as possible to ensure that the car is safe to drive.

bad fuel now carb is clogged and filter.