20 Most Recent 2007 Honda CR-V EX-L - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Chances are exceedingly good that the brake pads need to be replaced. There is a little metal tab that touches the face of the rotor when the pad is almost worn out. I would suggest that you have the brakes looked at before using the vehicle much more as maintenance is much less expensive than repair.

d3?

Hello. Usually when you raise your hood look to the left or over to the passenger side against the side wall there will be a blue cap covering the washer fluid tank remove it fill the the tank and snap the lid back into place.

Check out this video, they cover what you are looking for I believe. Thank you. Interior Fuse Box Location 2007 2011 Honda CR 2009 Honda CR EX 2 4L 4 Cyl

Try gas line anti freeze also known as dry gas

your anti theft device is activated,you need to lock and unlock your doors a couple times with the key fob,not the key,and then you need to put the key in the ignition and start it,if you dont have your key fob,call your car dealer to get a new one,they are programmed for each car only,you cannot bypass it.

Had same problem. Sounds strange but I tried spare key that had never been used & it starts every time. The old key eas 10 years old & just quit working. Try another key. Hope this helps.

Power steering pump. Fluid is either low or the pump is wearing out.

Cycling the key a few times should do it.

Read through these instructions. They go over the front then the rear motor replacement.

http://www.ehow.com/how_12206366_replace-windshield-wiper-motor-2007-honda-crv.html#page=15

The Brake Power Booster that the Master Cylinder is mounted to should be your problem...This component has nothing to do with brake fluid....It is a vacuum air device....This should be your problem..Have you had any work done to the brakes recently..?..Is it 4 wheel discs..?..Or ABS...Without knowing all this It is possible you could have a major vacuum air leak from hose also..It is possible that the Power Booster unit has damaged a proportioning valve that is connected to master cylinder lines...Also a possible caliper lock..However that Booster is more than likely at fault..You will have to replace booster and go ahead and bleed brakes at all hubs after replacing booster to check for any calipers sticking...More info would help me give you a more detailed answer but normally the Booster is at fault...

My thoughts are that the Brake fluid level is to the top, and there's no room for the fluid to expand as it warms up, instead it applies the brakes.
you may have an additional mechanical problem causing heat like sticking calipers or wheel cylinders. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mike_a0891ab86974ea74

DRIVE SHAFT NEAR TRANSMISSION.

If all is working well with the transmission. when you push the button and the light comes on, you should feel a down shift at higher speeds. the 3D light would come on. You are at that point out of overdrive. Pushing the button again, you would feel it going into to overdrive. This is normal