2011 Ford Kuga 2.0 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

First check the battery voltage with a multi meter the voltage should be around 12.53 v if it is lower then 12v the cars Bsi unit wont wake as the Canbus electronic system is power hungry. If the Battery voltage is correct then check the main fuses under the engine compartment and then check the interior fuses for a possible blown fuse. As the main system function are not working then the cause will most certainly be a blown higher amp fuse 30 amp / 60 amp which protects the starting and charging circuits.

the glove box is held by 2 plastic clips that work as a hinge on the bottom. Empty the glove box and grip it from both sides. Give it a sharp 'jerk' up and the u shaped clip will release. To replace just rest the glove box back on the clips and give a sharp push down

How do I remove the rear inner light unit?

Ford Kuga Owners Club Forums https://www.kugaownersclub.co.uk > threads > page-2 Undo these and pull the light out. It will "pop" out as on the side there in 2 ball / sockets clips made of plastic. I put a blob of vaseline on to help ... Missing: sealed ‎' Must include: sealed

• Replacing high mount rear brake light ' Page 2

  https://www.kugaownersclub.co.uk > threads > page-2 Feb 22, 2018 - It is possible to replace it, but tricky as you have to break open a glued plastic housing and then do some fine soldering. I managed to make ...

MY KUGA 10 PLATE DASH FLICKERS ON AND OFF THE SPEEDO AND MILEOMITER AND THE RED ONE IN BETWEEN ..

try placing the key in the charging spot

Most handbrakes are adjusted by lifting or setting the emergency brakes over and over, As you set the emergency the distance between the shoes and the drum is reduced making it distance between the two smaller so that it takes less movement of the handle to set the brakes. But if it has been a while since you have checked your brakes, it would be a good idea to check them.

45 foot pounds.

you need to bleed the fuel sytem...it has air in it

You're going to need to plug it into tester to sort this. Don't change things by guesswork

yes check all the pressures first if no better out of round/old tyres ..tread choice noise also depends on modifications to suspension and exhaust

Based on the limited information you gave, it appears as if your heater core is going out. If you live in a climate where it is cold and snowing and use the heater regularly, and also if the car is an older model, there is a great chance your heater core went out. The water runs through the heater core and through a process of convection, the heat from the warm water from the engine is extracted from the water a blown into your heater vents. When the core goes out, a hole forms, the heated water that runs through the heater core now leaks out and runs into your heat vent, and eventually on the floor in your car. The core is located under the dash board, and the whole dash will need to come out to repair it. Usually a costly job, as most vehicle manufacturers list the job as an 8 to 10 hour job. The air conditioner unit usually needs to come out also because it is a part of the heating/cooling system, so after the job is completed, your air conditioner will need recharged with Freon as well.

remove stereo, then 2 screws, then a few clips.

This could be two different issues. For the dash light get the vehicle plugged into an OBD scanner or a diagnostic system to check for Trouble Codes. These will give clues as to what and where the issue could be. Comment below with them and I'l try to help explain them. Unless the problem is with the brake booster most traction control systems do not use a vacuum to operate it. It is usually a set of electronic sensors on the wheels that the ECU uses to monitor tyre grip. As I cannot look at the car myself for that hose you will need to get a good mechanic to look at it. The vacuum hose could go to many things like the EGR system, the Turbo (if fitted) or possibly to the transmission.

Only way to get the code is dealership or someone with a radio programmer aka auto scanner

Ford Windsor Torque Specs - Help Center - Summit Racing

https://help.summitracing.com > answers > detail > a_id Apr 11, 2018 - Main Cap Bolts, 60-70 ft.-lbs. ; Connecting Rod Bolts, 22-25 ft.-lbs. (40-45 ft.-lbs. for 289TP and Boss 302) ; Cylinder Head Bolts, 65-72 ft.-lbs ...

Bolt Torque Spec Chart for Ford Engines - Maine Mustang

http://mainemustang.com > 65-73 Mustang Data Ford Engine Bolt Torque Chart ; Main cap bolts, 60-70 ft-lbs ; Outer 2 bolts of main cap bolts, 35-40 ft-lbs.(for 4 bolt main bearing caps only ) ; Connecting rod ...

5.0 HO Engine Bolt Torque Specs - Foxstang.com

https://www.foxstang.com > 5-0-ho-torque-specs Feb 21, 2020 - 5.0 HO (302) Head Torque Specs · Step 1: 23-35 FT/LBS · Step 2: 45-55 FT/LBS · Step 3: Additional 90 degrees (or 75-85 FT/LBS) · Use tightening ...

limited info generic answer ----if wiring request is for the vehicle [chassie etc]look up a repair manual for the van---if for the rv try dealer --rv shops --online forums --using the sub-model [rv model series ]

This will sound a bit silly and obvious but have you tried a new battery in the transponder key? Sometimes the fix is that easy. Have you had the vehicle plugged into an OBD scanner or a diagnostic system? Dashboard codes are commonly a bit vague about what the issue is. A Code 24 simply comes up as 'an Immobiliser issue' and thats all you get. The OBD scan will also tell you if there are any other issues with any of the other sensors on the engine. Comment below with any trouble codes you get and I'll try to help you more.

Try and lock up the vehicle withe the key fob. Leave for 20 minutes and until lock with the key fob and try to start in usual way.

According to this yes it does. https://www.google.com/search?q=2000+ford+taurus+se+pats+module ..

Those are all lean codes. I would verrify that you have proper fuel pressure at the rail. If so, I would look for a vaccum leak.