2010 Ford Fiesta 1.4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Here are the torque settings for a Ford Fiesta 1.4 2010 for the main bearings, head bolts, and big ends: Main bearings

• Main bearing caps: 1st stage - 7 Nm, 2nd stage - 16 Nm
• Main bearing bolts: 45 Nm + 90°

Head bolts

• Cylinders 1-3: 2nd stage - 30 Nm + 90°, 3rd stage - 80 Nm + 180°
• Cylinder 4: 2nd stage - 25 Nm + 90°, 3rd stage - 60 Nm + 180°

Big ends

• Connecting rod cap nuts: 1st stage - 22 Nm, 2nd stage - 40 Nm + 90°

Please note that these are just the general torque settings. The exact torque settings may vary depending on the specific engine and vehicle. It is always best to consult your vehicle's service manual for the correct torque settings. Here are some additional tips for tightening the torque settings:

• Use a torque wrench to ensure that the bolts are tightened to the correct torque.
• Tighten the bolts in a star pattern, working your way from the center out.
• Do not overtighten the bolts, as this can damage the engine.

Most like;y cause of that is a weak battery. IT may seem okay, but without enough current to engage, the starter solenoid will just click or chatter. Have the battery tested. If that is not the problem, then it most likely is the starter itself.

you meant to say you hot wired the horn, in your hand removed proving hord is ok. but fail to post the full symtoms of car. what do you expect from car. is it an alarm question horn button dead question. or what? leave the air bags to PROS, or get hurt !!! do not fiddle them or messabout them. start over and tell the full story , like. i want to drive my car, and i turn the key and bla bla. not mid wild diagnostic path, .

Yes when you change an engine you must change the ecu that's engine swap 101

DONT KNOW

BAd wheel sensors, bad wiring to the sensors.

Here is what I found on the internet....hope it helps.

• The door switch under the ford sign that opens the boot takes in water, the design is poor! Ford should have recalled for this issue in my opinion. However follow the next steps; 1. Remove the inside trim from the boot itself starting by removing the 2 small pieces of trim running at each side of the back window. Each have one screw that will need to be removed. When these have been removed look inside the handle on the main trim and remove the single screw that exists, when removed give the trim a tug, once you break a little away it comes off pretty easy. Place the trim and screws somewhere safe. 2. Lift the boot open and locate the 6 bolts (10mm socket Preferably on screw driver), remove all 6 (one is hidden a little behind the rear wiper mechanism). When they have been removed carefully close the boot so you can work on the outside, the trim holding the ford badge will now be loose, pull it from the car. 3. Behind the trim will be the boot release catch and 2 number plate lights (worth checking your bulbs whilst you have the chance!). Use a small screw driver to help ease out the connection to the boot switch and then again using a small screw driver pop out the switch from the trim casing. 4. As you will see the design is poor and the switch is open to water ingress, take the switch in doors and using a really small cross thread screw driver undo the 6 small screws (do not lose them!). The switch will be damp/wet inside, I cleaned it up using a rag and spraying WD40 into the switch. I then dried the switch out totally using the wife's hair dryer and cleaned up all the parts. 5. Put the switch back together using the small screws, I put some electrical tape around the switch for a little more protection from the wet, this may or may not help? Return to the car with the switch and before fitting back in place give the inside of the trim and good clean to remove any dirt or damp. I gave the electronic connector a spray with WD40 to displace any water. 6. Fit the switch back in place simply by working backward to what you have already done, before fitting all the trim back in place I checked it worked by opening and closing, starting the car and making sure the boot did not open, I also checked the boot opened and shut on the key. It was evident at this point that the problem was fixed! now fit the trim back in place and return all the screws etc. Job done $60 saved!!

what kind of problem? Or will it come to us in a dream?

In the Red circle back engine

There are three ways to get the code https://www.fixya.com/support/r29874205-need_vehicle_radio_code ..

The security system and immobilizer needs resetting A Tip I wrote for next time https://www.fixya.com/cars/r29912554-changing_battery_not_create_problems https://www.google.com/search?q=1998+Ford+Fiesta+reset+security+system

1. Insert the key into the driver's side door lock.
2. Turn the key once, but not all the way to unlock the door. Leave the key in this position for 40-60 seconds. ...
3. Do this again, but turn the key in the opposite direction.
4. Remove the key from the door, get into your Ford, and start the engine. The system should be reset.

How to Reset the Anti-Theft System on Your Ford

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first car? that all newer cars have this key off feature. and now KEY less? starts? (as in no metal key slot?) the owners users guide in the glove box covers this. titled, power off accessory delay feature. 10 to 30 minutes mostnewer cars have this A FEATURE. if inside car see this delay timer end, open driver door power off delay ends. (proof it is this)' this feature prevents draining car battery dead and now stranded with hug towing bill. I can see all there in totality, to just be sure..... or is this. (if it loses time on clocks) a fuse is blown. stand-by memory fuses. cars have many, now. for each computer on board. check all fuses. can I assume car drives great????? and scan tool scans show no DTC errors>? some newer a cars now have newer feature to bring back , KEY ACCESSORY mode. now missing with autostart buttons no metal key, so read the users guide for that. (some have this longer start button push rule) what's next clap on , clap off cars?

4786

Probably a blockage. I would remove the head and investigate.

Check the trans oil -QUICK- This baby's getting hot.

try your ford dealer

Gas? Diesel? Size of engine?

https://ibb.co/cNnLhdZ Click on the link for diagram You can check those fuses at the top, they go hot with key on. At the wiper motor, you can see hi and lo speeds and the wire colors, that's voltage. That solid black wire is ground. You might be able to take wire connector loose from motor, use jumper wires off the battery for voltage and ground to motor to see if it will run? You might should use an inline fuse, just in case. Do testing before you replace anything. Also, the are trouble codes for wipers, manufacturer specific codes.

Check the door drain vents in the bottom of the door ensure they are not blocked, when it rains the rain travels through the door at the window seal and escapes through opening,
. Open the door and check underneath. If blocked water fills the door and gets into the car. Also if the car has a sunroof water may be coming through there. If not this try going through a car wash while in the car and seen if you can see it hear any water getting in my

Where did you come up with that ? Keyword Protocol 2000 Keyword Protocol 2000, abbreviated KWP2000, is a communications protocol used for on-board vehicle diagnostics systems. This protocol covers the application layer in the OSI model of computer networking. The protocol is standardized by International Organization for Standardization as ISO 14230. KWP2000 also covers the session layer in the OSI model, in terms of starting, maintaining and terminating a communications session.