20 Most Recent 2009 Ford Escape Questions & Answers

Code P0016 indicates there is a problem with the VCT (Variable Camshaft Timing) in your engine, and the timing between the crankshaft and camshafts are possibly misaligned. It could be due to a number of reasons, including:

• Stretched timing chain

• Timing chain has jumped teeth

• Faulty timing chain tensioner(s)

• Crankshaft reluctor ring damage

• Wiring and/or connection problems

Are there any other codes in addition to the P0016 or is that it? If it's the only code, that's a good start. The first thing to do will be to have the engine timing checked. If it's still timed properly, the camshaft and crankshaft sensors should be inspected and tested next, as well as their wiring and connections to ensure they're clean, connected firmly, and have no breaks or corrosion.

All the parts are here https://www.quirkparts.com/v-2009-ford-escape--xlt--2-5l-l4-gas/body--glass-lift-gate Seems to be a common issue. Lots of videos https://www.google.com/search?q=2009+ford+escape+replace+back+windshield+latches ..

These are A.U0140 is bcm / body conto module is unable to communicate with the ECM/PCM AND B. U0155 IS controller area communication network they are related to each other and you must find the + network wire and the - network wire for pcm/ecm to bcm and from bcm to the dash either wire could be broken or corroded or the + is shorted to ground OR the opposite the - is shorted to the + //it's very rare for a module failure here check the fuses for can network/DATA LINK CONNECTOR /// a scan tool will not work because the communication network is broken and lights won't come on or shut of because there's no signal to the lighting control module //LCM YOU MUST FIND THE POSITIVE + CAN BUS WIRE AND THE NEGATIVE- FOR YOUR TRUCK USE A CONTINUITY TESTER WITH JUMPER WIRES HOME MADE TO BE LONG ENOUGH TO SEARCH FROM MODULE TO MODULE YOU CAN USE SPEAKER WIRE FOR JUMPERS AND ANY KIND OF PROBE OR SOLDERED WIRE TIP TO INSERT INTO PLUGS ///////DO NOT CUT INSULATION ON THE WIRES IT CAUSES THE WIRES TO CORRODE WHEN AIR CONTACTS THE COPPER WHICH MIGHT ALREADY BE WHAT'S WRONG HERE WHEN YOU FIND WHICH IT IS YOU MUST SEAL THE WIRE WITH HEAT SHRINK TO KEEP OXYGEN AWAY FROM THE COPPER OK PLEASE STAY CALM AND WRITE DOWN EVERYTHING AS YOU GO ALONG SECTION BY SECTION OTHERWISE THIS WILL DRIVE YOU CRAZY FROM TIGHT SPOTS AND FORGETTING FROM THE AGGRAVATING SITUATION THIS IS HARD TO DO IF YOUR A BIG GUY TRY TO GET OR LOOK AT A BOOK FOR YOUR TRUCK TO GET THE WIRE COLORS AND WHICH IS +/- THEN SEARCH AT THE + /- FOR EACH SECTION FOR CONTINUITY TO EACH ONE FIRST THE CHECK A + WIRE AND A - WIRE IN THE SAME SECTION TO SEE IF ONE IS SHORTED TO THE OTHER LIKE THIS +/+THEN -/- THEN +/- AND -/+ I'M TELLING YOU THIS BECAUSE I DON'T KNOW HOW MUCH YOU KNOW ABOUT THIS OK WHEN I SAY +/- I ALSO MEAN TO THE BODY GROUND BECAUSE THE CONNECTIONS COULD BE CORRODED OR BROKEN IN THE WIRE SO 1 WIRE FROM CONNECTOR END TO END EACH AND THEN + TO - WIRE IN THAT SECTION THEN +TO THE BODY GROUND AND TO THE NEGATIVE WIRE TO ANY + ITS NEAR AND INSPECT THEM FOR BREAKS IN THE INSULATION THAT WILL BRING YOU TO THE SOLUTION FASTER IF ONLY 1 IS TO BLAME AND BELIEVE ME THE LAST TIME THIS TWISTED MY SQUIRRELS NUTS AND I DON'T OWN ONE CHEER UP YOU WILL FIND IT ALSO CHECK THE PLUGS FOR BROKEN PIECES YOU CAN REMOVE THE ENDS AND JOIN THEM TOGETHER TEMPORARILY TILL YOU CAN GET THE PLUG FROM A JUNKYARD GOOD LUCK STEPHEN

there should be a special fuel funnel that is in the back of the vehicle that needs to be used with the anti siphon fuel flap. it is the only way to open that metal flap to add fuel or additives to your tank.

The dealer may have the original code. Have them look at least and you will need the vin identification number when you call.

Chemical pack?! What a crock of sh-t. Only chemical in your AC system is the refrigerant that is sealed in the coils of the unit. U got screwed when you paid for AC repairs and car was still under warranty. Your dealer is the proverbial POS and taking advantage of you. And if your compressor is running your entire system does not have to be replaced. It is simply a question of identifying the problem and taking care of it. The only other system that your AC shares is your heater. It shares the ductwork for the air and if that system is leaking engine coolant that could account for the smell you are allegedly complaining about. And when an AC blows hot it is because there is a leak in the refrigerant system and you are low on Freon.. Only proper way to fix this is to first locate the leak, fix it and then refill cooling system. Refilling and not repairing will only result in you having to return to refill ad infinitum. They apparently never fixed the leak! Meanwhile, you should contact Ford directly regarding the treatment you have received at this dealership - you will get a response. Write to the CEO directly.

the central locking works from a pump that mounted in rear side panel
your problem is possibly an air leak so the pump keeps running causing the noise while driving

Need an abs capable obd2 scan tool.

Easiest way to reset this is to unplug BOTH battery terminals, turn the key to the "on" position, and leave it sit like that overnight. This will drain any excess voltage in the complete system and do a reset on all electronics.

Under WarranteeGet it resolved at the dealer

emissions control leak detected (large leak) would start with gas cap

This code means the pcm has detected a low voltage situation on the memory circuit this is a common problem in fords start by disconnecting the battery then with electrical contact cleaner pull the fuses one at a time from the fuse box under the hood clean the contacts coat with dielectric grease and replace them usually it is caused by corrosion of the contacts in this box however I have run across this where the actual wire for the memory itself has corroded to the point where it needs to be replaced from the fuse all the way to the pcm itself

On the passenger side of the intake manifold, coming off the bottom about the center of the engine front to back, you'll feel a hose that comes off a nipple. That hose makes a 90 degree bend and goes around to the rear of the motor. Where that hose meets the Y-connector from the other side of the intake you'll find the PCV valve. It's almost impossible to see it with the hood installed, and even tougher to reach it.

Hi,when you buy the new lines just look at the front cooler rad and mach the ones with the ones that are on the car,you will just need a couple of tools,open ended spanner maybe alain keys or screwdriver for clips,when you open the nut that holds the pipe into the rad get the finger of a rubber glove and put a bit of tissu in it,and put it in the glove,then push the rubber in the rad tissu on the outside,this is to plug the hole so as not to loose fluid from the rad,undo on gearbox end,and replace the new one,then do the same with the other one,hope this was some help,all the best.

If the engine will crank but not start, someone will need to determine if you are missing fuel or spark to know what to check.

Check at the nearest repair shop.

Could be the radiator fan not coming on, thermostat stuck, not enough coolant in radiator, engine low on oil, Hope this helps.