2005 Dodge Magnum SXT - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The turbo only crams more air into the cylinders for a bigger bang. You need an auto electrician with a professional grade scan tool computer. It can read DTC trouble codes and historical data, but they are also bi-directional and can instruct transmission solenoids to operate and verify that they did. It sounds like you are in Limp Mode. https://www.google.com/search?q=mobile+auto+electrician+near+me ..

Read no engine and can change where all evap part are;...... RTM"? it can only be 3 places, bay, mid car or at tank. my jeep is mid car, if not seen in the bay then we look at the tank./ bingo. got scan tool errors. most eVAP are loose or bad gas cap; and takes over 30 driving cycles to reset, fooling, everyone lacking scan tool and pushbutton reset on tool (all have it) the parts dealer, mopar.com shows hose 8 to tank vent the tank vent always goes to the CAN, only how far that is varies.

Possibly the batteries in ur remote are expired .the transponder located inside the housing will still alow u to activate ur vehicle but wont access ir wireless infa red aignal that opens and locks the doors my advice is get new battery

might to go to local parts store and borrow a harmonic balancer installation tool

have 2005 Dodge Magnum and the ETC light goes on and my car dies down when... one 'trick' you should try: put the key in the "on" position, but don't start the car. Depress the gas pedal full to the floor, and then let go, all within 2 seconds. You should hear a "ding" sound indicating that the pedal travel distance has been reset in the PCM. Pedal position is electronically sensed at all engine conditions, and a misread can trigger the ETC code. You'll want to do this reset after you clean the throttle body, but try it first anyhow.

Therm. is being held open causing the engine to not heat up to a full 190 degrees. make sure you put in a 190 degree therm. and unhook the negative battery cable for at least 5 minutes to clear the code. the system could need a flush too, with over 100,000 miles or 5 years

It could also be a module failure. Normally I would take it to the dealer and when he tells you what is wrong you know what to replace.

needs a new switch

replace the brake switch

Broken wire...Usually happens around the sensor, but could be anywhere from the rear sensor to the abs module. Just a note. Most wire breaks are just behind the plug. Within 1/2 inch.. Of the sensors.

Sounds like a wiring issue. I doubt that your computer is the problem. A loose or corroded battery connection can still supply power to your radio and lights and such but not allow the starter to engage so.. First check your battery connections where they clamp to the battery.If corrosion is present then disconnect, clean them good, and reconnect. Is starter making a click sound when you turn the key? If so then that usually means that there is a battery connection issue. Make sure the connections are not loose at all on the battery. It could also be your starter or starter solenoid. Tap the starter with the handle of a screw driver a few times and then go and turn the key to see if it turns over. If it the starter is turning over after doing this then replace your starter. If you don't know what your starter looks like just do a Google search for a picture. It will be attached to the front of the transmission usually on the side of the motor with a couple wires attached to it. Good luck!

replace it

Check that the fan is working, check fluid level, check for blockage in front of the rad, check rad cap may not be holding correct pressure If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/edward_020b3320326d263d

Did you try direct 12vdc power to motor wires ? Reverse polarity should change direction of motor, then you'll know it's switch related or whatever. Did old motor do same? The switch reverses polarity, or is supposed to. If a motor goes in one direction, when wired backward ( reverse polarity) it should go opposite direction. That tells you motor is fine.

open the panel and push down on the button and tap the motor if still won go down maybe a bad window switch or bad window regulator or even the motor itself three step process.

also check your oil for white foam in it , you could have a leaky gasket ,

The first thing you do is verify the brake lights work, the park lock will not release unless the brake pedal is depressed and the brake circuit is energized.

FIRST OFF , 1978 IS A NO DIGITAL DOCUMENT YEAR. 2000 IS YES. (ON AVG) so only books exist then paper hard bound books, service manual. so buy one used there 44 years old. and now have what you need they be rare. most folks never hand scanned a 1000 page 44 year old book. that be (over the top brave) not me! WOW 1 NO PHOTO POSTED OF THE OBJECT, And gee 2, nobody drives any lean burn car now. ever. wow2 , wire coolers all 3 not told ,now that makes reading schematics to you impossible. wow 3, no problem told is something dead, (i bet yes) but not told. if was told we can look on pages that have 3 devices related to the problem. not told. most of these cars where crushed at the $500 federal, crush program. rare now. super rare. read here (kinda does the job but weak on locations) https://app.chiltonlibrary.com/home

limited info generic answer it can be anything --check all fluids for level and condition next time pop hood look and listen for the area of noise and check those components --like steering pump alternator water pump etc

TRUST YOUR MECHANIC