20 Most Recent 2005 Dodge Dakota Quad - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Yes

Be testing for fuel pressure and injector signal, testing for spark, test cylinder compression.
Wet spark plugs mean fuel but no spark. Spark plugs are read for teltail

Ask the dealer to be sure.

If the buttons are not lighting it likely means a bad switch. Usually if the encoder (shift) motor fails, the buttons will flash to let you know there is problem. Check for power at the switch and if it's there, you probably need a switch.it flashes while everything moves into place, once it locks in, the light should be on steady after that. Unless you have lost power to the switch, no lights is usually a switch failure.
In most cases if the encoder motor has a failure the system picks it up and flashes the lights continuously when trying to engage 4WD.
--------------- also try reset: unplug the fuse, take off the pos lead at the batt, ground the pos batt lead against the eng for a moment, reinatall the lead + fuse, try 4wd. --------------- check out the wires of the battery and the tccm (motor wirings)if any of the wires get loose the 4wd stops working.remove and reinsert wires very tightly.then check out/. --------------------------- thanks.this will help.please do rate the solution.thank you for using fixya.keep updated

I've never seen a video that will help. Do you have a frost plug that is corroded and leaking coolant? What I do is to take a suitable punch & hammer then carefully tap at one edge of the frost plug until it is driven inward enough so the coolant runs out. Once it has been carefully driven fully inward you can then grab it with a pair of pliers and pry it out. Do Not let it fall into the block and/or leave it there. The tough part is getting a new frost plug driven in place and sealed properly so it doesn't leak. If in doubt, let someone at a good repair shop do this one.

Most likely a vehicle speed sensor.

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hi have a look here Dodge Workshop Manuals

You need to check for a vacuum leak on the intake. If no leak, then make sure your throttle cable is not to tight. After the air valve is replaced sometimes it will take driving it and shutting it off several times to allow the computer to reset its values. If it still is bad, hook up a scanner and see what is happening.

Front or rear? Do you have a leaky seal on a rear axle due to wear or a clogged breather that doesn’t let the hot air out of the rear axle and forces lube oil past the seal abd then cooks at the brakes/ rotor due to heat?

For 1986 and later models, code 51 is triggered when the engine has been running lean for more than 11 minutes, 55 seconds, as reported to the computer by the oxygen sensor (O2); and code 52 is triggered when the engine has been running rich for more than 11 minutes, 55 seconds. The power limited light will not be lit in either case. If the condition which causes code 51 or 52 continues for four times the time it took to set the code (roughly 48 minutes), the engine will run in closed loop mode, which forces it to run rich, preventing it from running lean (running lean can cause severe damage). During closed loop, the logic module continues to monitor the O2 sensor. I suggest you replace the O2 sensor.

a spark plug feeler gauge works not the round one

All done electronically on that year .

check and test battery ignition switch

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Have you replaced the clutch switch? If so, you might need to adjust it so it hits correctly. If not, I suggest you replace the clutch switch.

I'd change the coil pack, spark plug, and spark plug wire for cylinder one immediately if you know for certain it's an issue that is isolated to cylinder 1 & is definitely ignition related. What code(s) are you getting with the ibd2 scanner? IF IT WERE MINE, I'D DO THE FOLLOWING IN AN EFFORT TO FIND A SOLUTION TO THIS ISSUE: Easiest Test: Use an extra spark plug wire to replace the #1 wire and see what happens, it doesn't matter what it's from as long as it fits onto your coil pack and spark plug securely. Start it and see if that makes a difference as it just might- I had to do this to mine, I used a plug wire ore that I found laying on the ground at a local junkyard, I Jake how it sounds but it worked great and is still on that truck to this day with no issues at all after swapping them out! if that doesn't work just "borrow" a coil pack and plug wire from another cylinder on your engine just to test it out and SE if bkows the fuse. It won't hurt anything to do this and let it run for a 15 seconds just to see if it solves the #1 CyliyIgnition Issue & this will also let you know that it's not an issue with the engine's main wiring harness- if it doesn't blow the fuse as it has been doing after swapping out the coil/wire from another cylinder then just leave it as it is and go pick up a new coil pack and a plug wire to install on the cylinder that you "borrowed" the parts from for cylinder 1. If if you can get a set of new wires and a set of new spark plugs I'd advise doing so, I mean after you get this solved. Plug wires lose their resistance/ability to transfer energy from the coil to the spark plug over time and if yours are old and/or haven't been replaced before(or in a while) just change them and you won't have to worry about any issues in the future. Buy the parts locally or pick up a set of plugs/wires cheap online, best of luck and let me know if I can vibe of any further assistance. See my message directly below please, I'd be very grateful for any positive feedback as it's the only way I know if I'm doing an effective job!