20 Most Recent 1996 BMW 535i Questions & Answers

Other than BMW ones it all depends on the engine in your car, how you drive it and what your budget is. In general with after market parts definitely go with the well known brand names. Some of the very cheap 'Budget' rotors can be very poor quality especially if used on a heavier, more powerful car like a BMW. The bigger size engines, especially the diesels, are heavier so need a heavier duty rotor to compensate. If you have a more aggressive driving style, (Hard and fast), more of a performance brand of rotors AND PADS would be a better idea. If you are on a limited budget I would recommend you buy BMW parts. That way you know they are a decent quality and are the correct ones for your vehicle. A Simple rule is to always buy the best quality you can afford.

Hi. Thanks for your question. For assistance on ticking from 535i you can visit https://www.reliable-store.com and download the entire workshop manual which includes all the information along with the diagrams for better understanding. Good day!

In front of the radiator core for the engine cooling the cabin fan is behind the glove box inside the air con module

Pull the unit out and send it in for repair.

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2138647-92-E34-535i-Shifting-problems-won-t-go-into-gear-manual-transmission-this should help

Check compatibility of gearbox ECM with gearbox. You will need the serial codes of the ECM and ask manufacturer for relative compatibility with gearbox type.

If you have a multimeter remove and test the fuses for continuity (OHMS) as fuses can look OK but they have blown. If your replacing fuses ONLY replace the with one of the Same colour and Amp rating.

Yes, Bimmerfest Forums are a great resource. https://www.google.com/search?q=BMW+325ci+vacuum+hose+diagram ..

Question edited for clarity. changed your Poly Vinyl Chloride (PVC) into Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV), and added some punctuation to make real sentences. Your car is run by computers, the computers have diagnostics and will tell you what's wrong. You can't guess faults like you have. A Professional Grade Scan Tool computer can diagnose all the computers, modules, sensors and systems in about 40 minutes. It can even record what happens and what goes wrong as you are driving! https://www.google.com/search?q=mobile+auto+electrician+near+me ..

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=power+window+switch+wireing+for+a+BMW+x3+2004&FORM=HDRSC3

https://cararac.com/blog/bmw-no-crank-no-start-problems-and-solutions.html This will give you a few ideas of what to look for. Make sure you are getting battery voltage to the fuse box.

To turn off HDC on a BMW, all you have to do is press the HDC button located on the center console. The button will have an image of a vehicle going downhill with a speedometer above it, and you'll know it's off if there are no lights illuminated above it. If you ever want to turn the system on again, just press the button again.

Since you fixed the fault by scan advice and was ok and on testdrive another limp mode came up, just check again with your scan to see what is the possible cause for it. Probably the crank sensor.

6 years different and a different series? If only life was that easy! Some BMW have a mechanical pump driven by the serpentine belt, and some have an totally electric powered pump. Just buy one for the model you have. https://www.google.com/search?q=2012+BMW+535i+water+pump or https://www.google.com/search?q=2006+BMW+330i+water+pump Rock Auto are a good suppliers, have images and different makers and 'qualities'. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/bmw,2006,330i,3.0l+l6,1431850,cooling+system,water+pump,2208 ..

Check the basics first. Is battery fully charged? This is the most common reason for a no crank, no start. What exactly does it do when you turn the key? Nothing at all, no lights, no 'click' as you turn the key. A slow lazy crank?