20 Most Recent 2007 Audi A6 2.0 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

2 horns were mounted to brackets on the ends of the crash bar. or

auto , possible linkage not connected or low on gear oil ! manual , clutch or drive shaft broken !

-10 it will if around -0 to -8 then change were you get your fuel as it has to much water in it.

evap emission control incorrect, check canister purge regulatur valve

It is possible you have a brake hose acting as a check valve. Pump brake pedal until brakes drag and under hood release the line nuts one by one on the brake master cylinder.....if brakes release you have master cylinder problem....if not you have brake hose problem. This symptom is usually experienced when engine warms up ad heats up the aluminum m/c..

Think fuse..Check it..if this is not blown,aim at solenoid control..Good luck

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A few things to note:1. Just because the lights come on doesn't mean that there is enough power to start the car. It could still be a battery issue, or the alternator, but not likely from what you describe.2. Have the OBD system scanned with a VAG-COM and see what errors show up. Most auto parts stores (like autozone) will scan it for free, or you can purchase one (it's a good investment) at http://www.ross-tech.com/ for a couple hundred dollars.

Hello antibowtie,

There three different locations it could be in depending on which fuel/ignition system you have. Below I will provide you with all three, I 'll include pictures also.

This data link connector is located in the lower corner of the auxiliary relay box in the engine compartment left side.






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The next one is located in the center console to the rear of the ash tray under a cover.


And the third location is behind the front storage compartment in the center console.



I hope this helps you.

Regards,
netvan

Hi, are you asking why your Audi switches off when it's hot? When it's hot outside, or when the engine is hot? If the latter, your car is likely starting to overheat and the self protect mode kicks in. Have your cooling system checked and your OBD scanned as a start.

You're burning oil. Something is wrong with the cylinder head. Either something is cracked, worn, or broken. Need to do a pressure test of the cylinders to see if they are in good shape.

There is short in the seat motor, or in one of the connections in the seat. You'd have to remove the seat and dissemble to locate the short with a volt meter / continuity tester.

Can you describe what's happening when you try to start the car? And what the problem is?