20 Most Recent 2006 Audi A3 2.0T Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity. From your secret code, it might be Audi? you only state '20 t' Sportback'? All question need 'year make model' in full, first 3 words please. Question moved to model category. Help and videos. You can also use a smartphone with the Google Translate App and use the camera feature to translate what you are seeing. Settings / Language https://www.google.com/search?q=2006+audi+a3+2.0t+sportback+change+navigation+language //

The meaning of the sensor fault content is: 1. The sensor circuit has a short circuit or an open circuit, and the signal voltage value is not within the normal specified value range. 2. The performance of the sensor can not achieve the effect that the sensor should have, and the device may be defective or aging. If this type of failure occurs repeatedly, the possibility of replacement is quite large, but the sensor is expensive.

use timing belt , if has 8valves dont bend , if has 16 valve ,bend valves

the relays are the same,switch them around until you find the bad one 2006 Audi A3 2 0T relay diagram Bing images

turn it to volts, connect the multimeter to the terminals you should be getting 12volts, when light is on.

Could be a lot of things but maybe an "easy" fix is a bad motor mount(s). This could cause the vibration.

sounds like a loose fuse or relay . check all the relays and fuses

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Check out the videos, and also already answered on Fixya https://www.fixya.com/cars/t6734476-crank_sensor https://www.google.com/search?q=2008+audi+A3+2.0+tdi.+crankshaft+sensor+location ..

NO THE PROBABLE CAUSE IS A VALVE THAT ADJUSTS THE TURBO PRESSURE!CHECK FOR DTCS FIRST AND LET ME KNOW!!

The following asumes only one wheel is hot and the e-brake is not engaged or possibly hung up from having been left on while the car was not driven for a while. Up north, BMW (Audi ?) brake disks tend to start rusting after about a week of inactivity. For a hung up e-brake, it is sometimes necessary to go back and forth to break the corrosion. A hot wheel usually indicates that the brake pad is dragging (i.e. the brake caliper piston is not returning into the brake caliper bore). A couple of checks: measure the brake disk temperature with a temperature gun on both brake disks of the same axle. If one is much higher, the caliper piston is probably sticking. Can also check for relatively large temperature difference with your hand-just do not touch the metal or you will get burned. Look at the brake disk for evidence of the outline of the brake pad that may have transferred to it indicating a very hot brake disk. Chock the car well, put into neutral with e-brake off, jack up "hot wheel" side and try to spin the tire. If a lot of drag, sticking caliper piston. Caliper replacement or disassembly for a thorough cleaning will probably be required. If this is necessary, you should do both brake disks and pads and consider doing both calipers on that axle depending on age and corrosion condition.

If you have replaced 4 sensors the problem must be somewhere else in the system. Exactly which sensor is it as there are many sensors built into an engine and transmission? You could get a Good Auto electrician to check the vehicle to see if there is another cause of the problem.

crank sensor fault

It could be a few different things.
Did the check engine light come on before it quit running?

Most likely the disc player has a failed loading system, very common, pull it out and have it rebuilt.

No injector relay in this car. Injector pulse is controlled directly from ECU.

200 RPM are you sure?