20 Most Recent 2014 Kia Sportage Questions & Answers

what does it do now. it needs service. are you asking for guesses or how to do tests./ what is the question? pulling the battery on most cars does all the resets you need. but can cause lost radio codes and it dead. (lic. code) <retrieve it first. when the car fails does it fail to crank or not. https://f005.backblazeb2.com/file/notstart-cranks-fast/cranks-but-not-start.mp3 here is the sound of good starter, cranks but will not start

I'd say the battery is flat on one of the sender units or has been damaged. If you have had new tyres put on recently take it back as they have more than likely damaged one of the sender units.

Check all of the fuses. The start system and headlights are on a separate system from the rest of a vehicle.

I'm guessing the driver side is worn more. It's due to the calipers being closer to master cylinder on driver side. If the pads wear too quickly it could be due to hanging calipers. Or weak rear brakes forcing front to do more work.

you need to go to a dealer and give them your VIN number for the code.

Go to menu contacts menu delete. Or click on a name and hold it will give you options

Yes it is high if it still does that when it is warm. Cold idle speed is higher. Perhaps they will slow it down at first service. Typically, the idle speed will be set at a value in the range of 600 to 800 RPM, but the exact value will depend on the number of engine cylinders and whether the vehicle is equipped with a manual or automatic transmission.

Kia Sportage Engine idle speed is high Inspection Costs

I have a 2007 kia sportage lx 2.0, and just replaced the fuel tank pressure sensor after getting check engine light and consistent P0452. After finding 2 access ports under each back seat looking all over. No sensor found. No helpful info online found anywhere as to location. So bought repair book. It is under car, under evap canister. Hope this helps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ONaGR5ZIbU ..

Usually a leaf from the Fall stuck in the system.

It could be a problem with the fuel pump or igntion module/ coil pack. The next time it stops, fuel pressure needs to be checked and have the ignition coil pack and module tested at a local parts store.

It could be a bad rear defroster control switch or relay, it could be a loose or damaged connector somewhere in the defroster circuit, or it could be a damaged or defective defroster grid on your rear window. The easiest way to check to see if you have a circuit problem or a grid problem is to check for voltage at the connectors to the defroster grid at the rear window area. These connectors may even be located inside the trunk just below the rear window. If there is power there, then the circuits are OK and the rear window will most likely have to be replaced to fix it. If there is no power there, then the circuits must be traced to locate the cause of the failure...Most likely a burned-up switch and/or connector.

The starter uses both a fuse and a relay. I'm not sure, but I think on your model they are in the fuse box inside the vehicle, in the instrument panel fuse box.

Hello. The transmission must be removed to remove and replace the torque converter clutch assembly inside the transmission. Remove the starter first though. Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.

I've seen some feedback indicating that you need to avoid touching the bulb glass when replacing the lights. That even oil from your skin much less grease from elsewhere can contaminate the new versions of headlights, yielding hot spots that result in greatly decreased life expe ctency for the bulbs. On the other hand, it may be the result of voltage spikes. Determining that requires a technician wire in a voltometer to cheick such.

Get behind and pull the wire with grips. If it is broken inside the hood, it is not so easy. some help here https://www.google.com/search?q=Kia+Sportage+manually+open+hood ..

videos here https://www.google.com/search?q=2008+Kia+Sportage+LX+V6%2C+replace+serpentine+belt ..

I am unfamiliar with the brand so unable to comment on the application but the problem you have is common throughout the filter world and there are several reasons for it... Factories around the world produce fairly limited types of filters and they buy from each other to make up a fairly comprehensive range to fill up their catalogues and some companies don't even bother to have their own brand and part number applied to them but simply put one manufacturer's filter in their own box. Some oil filter suppliers don't make filters at all and simply buy in what they need and sometimes they buy from application and cross reference catalogues and sometimes they buy by dimensions - thread size, canister size, etc. The trouble is, cross referencing doesn't happen in a straight line. Out of the multiple thousands made it isn't unusual to discover many different filters originally intended for different application that are physically similar enough to allow buyers to choose the most profitable option and when they discover a more profitable option or they have a supply problem they bring in a substitute and invent a new part number. Take the part number of a filter from a catalogue and cross reference it in another catalogue and cross reference the resulting other part number in a different catalogue and then cross reference that in the original catalogue and it logically should produce the original part number - wrong! At least it is mostly wrong and some of those filters being offered as suitable fitments are poor substitutes fitted only by the gullible or the profit-hungry. Unless fitting a dealer part ensure the replacement is identical to the one you are removing and don't forget to look inside for a valve. Most of this of course applies mostly to spin-on filters rather than the new fangled paper element type though even with those it pays to be careful due to reports of some being made of inferior material. If two part numbers are offered a wise person takes both on sale or return for obvious reasons...