2001 Mitsubishi Montero Sport - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

get some wd 40 spray it in the lock and then wait a cupple of minz then try it if that dont work then tap ya lock wiv ya nukle

You need to have the body computer scanned for trouble codes. Most simple code readers will not access body computers.

Should be two ports on the a/c lines with black or colored caps.One is bigger than the other to try to prevent you from connecting to the wrong side of the compressor.Sometimes one of the ports is on the back of the compressor.

check for spark at plugs and if theres spark then get some starting fluid and spray a little bit in air claener boxif it starts then ya have a fuel prob.

It is against the law to release any freon into the enviroment it should be done by a shop where they hook up a machine that sucks the freon into a sealed container for disposal.

You are right on to keep an eye on this...the bearings in the compressor or water pump can come and go at first...throwing the belt is usually the first symptom...your adjustment may have fixed a stretched belt. Hope this helps.

Due to copyrights this manual is not free to share on line at this site sorry. If you wish to access it fro a small fee here is the link: www.alldata.com

Under the hood is an emission system sticker, it has a diagram of the vacuum system that shows this valves general location, it is in most cases right next to the Carbon Vapor storage canister.

you will need to replace the ignition switch on this vehicle
because the tumblers are worn out and when you put the key in it it will not allow you to turn the ignition to start the vehicle

either you have an air lock in the heater core or is leaking. first off pull the carpet around the floor and see if its wet or damp, also look for water marks to indicate water leakage, if the floor is wet then you have a leak.If its an air lock you need to raise the front of the vehicle so that the radiator cap is the highest point in the car, jacking it up usually works.start the car and turn the heater on to hot, warm the car up to normal operating temp then just fill the radiator and the air bubbles should come out.If you do this and you see a heap of small bubbles continually coming up really fast, then you have either a cracked head or a blown head gasket

Hi,Generally, the minimum requirement is 5w-30, so 5w-50 simply provides additional protection for higher temperatures.However, the fact you have chosen a SYNTHETIC oil, means you are providing the BEST protection possible.So, by all means....do use this oil, if you can afford to.Cheers,

did you find them?

any grade of 5w-30w will work fine in your vehicle, if you've done the required oil changes ( with filter) then the oil called for on your car should still be fine to use, I have 297k on my honda , and 289k on my toyota , and I still use the oil thats suggested in the owners manual on both of them

What kind of hill are you going up when it gets hotter? When going up hill you are putting more of a work load on the engine so it is possible for the temperature to rise. Is it getting hot to where it is over heating?

It is the brakes , they are locked up. To find which one when you drive it a short distance feel the wheel for heat. The hottest one in the one locked up. Be careful they can get really hot fast. Probably the brake hoses. I would replace them all. Could also be a caliper. To check for this raise the tire, take it off and release the pressure on the caliper. either the bleeder valve or brake hose. if the rotor can then be turned by hand then the caliper is ok.

The caliper, pads needs to be removed, front one is bolted by screws, but rear disc brakes are bolted by pins.The pins needs to be removed.If the pins are rusted and hard to take out,then wd-40 spray or any other good rust lubricating spray has to be used.-------- For complete detail, with step by step diagrams.Click the link below:--- http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-replace-rear-brake-discs-on.html ----------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

sounds like your head light switch took a ......go to napa and buy another one and change it out if you can't do it yourself i live in chicagoland area good luck

You can use a hammer against the ratchet to get it tight. smack it a few good times. First I would take it out and apply some loctite to it. Use the non permanent type.

The Engine Control Module (ECM) receives two vehicle speed sensor signals via the Control Area Network (CAN) communication line. One is sent from Vehicle Dynamic Control (VDC) / Traction Control System (TCS) / Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) control unit, and the other is from Transmission Control Module (TCM). ECMuses these two signals for engine control. Possible Causes: - VDC/TCS/ABS to ECM circuit harness is open or shorted
- TCM to ECM circuit harness is open or shorted
- VDC/TCS/ABS to ECM circuit connectors
- TCM to ECM circuit connectors
- Faulty revolution sensor

105k if its not a Turbo, heres the maintenance link http://www.mitsubishicars.com/media/owners/pdf/2011_Maintenance_Schedule_Non_Turbo.pdf it says 2011 , but thats the time of printing, its for all Mitsubishi vehicles except the 4B1 motor,, which I don't know if you have or not