20 Most Recent 2014 Dodge Charger Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity/ Question moved to model category. https://www.lxforums.com/threads/third-brake-light-issues-solved.394238/ It appears that it is a well known issue! https://www.google.com/search?q=2014+Dodge+Charger.+The+3rd+brake+light+is+not+getting+power ..

You need to have the BCM/PCM module's scanned for fault codes. The cruise is controlled by computer

It is located either under the dash just above the floor or under the hood. It will have a cover over it and you pull it off and you will see a diagram that will have the fuses and what they do.

as in your button is failing? open back seats and pull emergency internal release, or use key

Doubtful, trace wires from speakers using test light, does new amp have coaxial connectors? you may have incompatible model, probably need to match amp with new head unit, worst case you can rewire speakers directly to amp, use new wires, leave old wires in place just cut ends and put tape over.

Question edited for clarity. No it isn't normal. There is probably a change solenoid or sensor issue. Take it to a transmission place and they will put it on a fancy scan tool computer. Tell them you want to see the results. Don't let them tell you that you need a new transmission!

You added the Refrigerant Gas yourself? 'Freon' was banned 30 years ago. The gasses have name like R121A. The system needs to be filled by weight of liquid gas. All of the gas is sucked out by a recovery machine. Then once there is a vacuum, the gas bottle is put on a scale and the correct weight of gas is added with the AC running. That is the only way to do 'maintenance'.

I don't know the location but if you follow the + cable from the battery it connects to the starter .

If this is the engine without a distributor the firing order is 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, The cylinder heads are numbered as odds and evens. Standing with the belts and pulley nearest to you, (the transmission furthest away), the left side is the odd numbers and the right side is the even numbers. Number 1 is the left one nearest to you, number 2 is the right one closest to you, 3 is middle left and 4 is middle right, 5 is the far left and 6 is the far right cylinder.

Here are the specs you require: • Camshaft Sprocket Bolts 75 +1?4 Turn ft-lbs • Camshaft Thrust Plate - Bolts 28 ft lbs - 250 in lbs • Connecting Rod Cap -20+ 1/4 turn ft lbs Here are the four steps you should take: 1. Cylinder Head Bolts* 45 ft-lbs 2. Cylinder Head Bolts* 65 ft-lbs 3. Cylinder Head Bolts* 65 ft-lbs 4. Cylinder Head Bolts* +1?4 Turn +1?4 Turn

Hi there's this website something like reliable-store and it is very amazing for manual for repairing servicing anything someone on fixya recommended it to me and I thank him even today They have full manuals and it's verrrrry cheap and mine I got free in offers 3rd time I bought it, I also had an issue with the file so the girl replaced it in 30 mins there is one website more but i don't remember its name it was 2 years back bitman something link this Try these out brother

Probably shorted heater coils

Did it used to be a police vehicle? There is a chance that when the police equipment was removed from the vehicle that something was unplugged that shouldn't have been. If you are not very mechanical I would suggest finding a competent mechanic to take a look at it.

There's a website that has all this information about all this and manuals everything totally free there are many actually but I personal ly like few .. let me know if u need help thanks

Well, this could be a number of things. First, check the fuse for the fuel sending unit to be sure there's power going to it. Next, turn the key to 'power on' but don't start it and try to hear the sending unit 'humm' while it's priming the lines. If you can hear it or you know there's power, pull the key and get underneath and disconnect the fuel line just after the filter and put the key back in and turn it back to the power on, but no start. If everything's good then fuel will start coming out of the lines and you know that there's most likely a blockage further downstream and it's not a faulty sending unit. Good luck!

with a multi meter

There is a switch on the dash that should say ESP, if you press and release that it turns the ESP ( electronic skid protection) off and on. It is not really ever always off. To turn it off you have to be driving about 15 mph and hold that button down till it chimes and the lights come on. You then cannot turn it off unless you do the same thing AND turn off the ignition and restart the car,

Request it from Dodge

on the dodge it's call the skim i would suggest you change the skim module and the key for the vehicle