20 Most Recent 2014 Dodge Challenger Questions & Answers

heater directional flaps motors vacuum or motorized stuck heater tap switch not moving

There is usually a thin film of grease inside the latch assembly for lubrication. The grease may be too heavy when cold and cause the latch assembly to stick. You can try additional lubrication with WD 40 spraying in the latch assembly. This will also thin out any heavy grease within the latch assembly and loosen things up

take it out,they will always find you,there are cameras everywhere,lisence plate recognition,cameras at stop lights,paranoid much?

Pull out the fuse

Unless you have modified the engine in your new car and thereby voided the warranties, the existing exhaust system is adequately sized. If you want louder mufflers you should be able to replace those safely without endangering your warranty coverage, but read the fine print in your 3/36 bumper to bumper and 5/50 power-train warranties. Anything behind the catalytic converters is generally fair game (cat-back conversion) but again read your warranties. I have about 17 months left on the power-train warrantee on my 2010 Challenger before I will even think about any modifications.

V8 I assume? Try this link.

If you can't locate a leak using a pressure tester the only other place the coolant can go is into the engine. You're burning the coolant through a blown head gasket or cracked head, not usually a cracked block. This crack won't seal with stop leak and probably only opens enough to leak when the engine temperature, ambient temperature and engine speed are at a certain point so really hard to duplicate in the shop. Sorry to say it's time to tear it down. I hope this helps. Take Care. ps when you have the heads off replace all the hard cracked hoses it's easier now.

Honestly You need to hook up scan tool. You can find information in alarm triggers..It will tell you why the alarm was triggered...Like drivers door,trunck,key fob and so on...Then diagnoss the troubled area. I have'nt seen any one thing that was most common...It could be any of the things mentioned. or more. The list is longer.

seems that your brake booster is leaking, diconect vacum hose to brake booster and pluged press your brake pedal, noise is gone? there you found it you need a new booster, may be hard to find? dont know make sure when your replace it, to mesure the length of front rod or you end up locking up your brakes after a short drive,
hope it helps

Only thing I can tell, with all you've checked, is the power to the gage isn't there. If the tank sending unit ground to frame is not connected, the gage will go past the full mark. No power to the gage it will stay at empty side. Power goes from fuse to gage, gage to sending unit and back to gage. Make sure the fuse is good on both sides of it. The gage just isn't getting power from the fuse.

try bleeding the master cylinder at the lines first as it indicates that there is still air in the pistons loosen one line at a time and gently apply the brakes until any air bubbles come out tighten the line before releasing the brake pedal do it for the other line and then bleed all the brakes starting at the longest line first and ending at the shortest line

Take it back.

Fuel filter or pump

Hello Steve Lemke, My guess would be you are all EXQUISITE if you are at 6 PSI & 20 to 30 GPH @ 1800 RPM. That was the red engine, not the blue... I have THE FACTORY books buried in the basement... I've seen two: 6 to 7.5 (not to exceed) and Manual pump pressure (psi): 4 to 5.5 psi Hope this helps. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/plymouth,1970,cuda,5.6l+340cid+v8,1231726,fuel/air,fuel+pump,6256 http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1970,challenger,5.6l+340cid+v8,1078433,fuel/air,fuel+pump,6256 Incorrect flow rating (pretty sure): More Information for CARTER M6866

pull off pos bat cable for approx. 1 minute then reinstall

The intake air temperature (IAT) sensor is located on the intake tube. Simply lift up on the engine cover to remove the cover. Near the front of the engine on the intake air tube will be a small 2 wire sensor, this is the IAT. Lift the release tab and rotate 1/4 turn to the left to remove it. Nate I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/nathan_cc888cf971f43e78

forget all that , its the door latch, there is a switch in it, when you shut the door it actuates the door glass, replace it and it will work, about 150 for a new one, Matt/by the way its inside the door, it takes three screws to remove it and unplug the wires,you have to take the door skins off, itas not hard to do but be carefull, not to scatch it up, Matt, this also running the windoes up and down till th battery goes dead