20 Most Recent 2010 Toyota Highlander Questions & Answers

Does the vehicle run? Did you reset the anti-theft system? Did you put the Radio Code in? That runs all of that via the BCM. No code and none of it works.Number 1 tip when changing batteries, maintain voltage using a battery charger, battery maintainer, two long wires to the old one, or even an MN1500, 9 volt battery will hold enough voltage to the ECM and BCM for 15 minutes...

This should help

Visit the on-line store, know as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem. Best Manuals

I, feel sorry for you, after reading your problem, but don't worry you visit the Reliable-Store they will help you for sure. Best Manuals

Visit the on-line store, know as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem. Best Manuals

I, feel sorry for you, after reading your problem, but don't worry you visit the Reliable-Store they will help you for sure. Best Manuals

That light simply means that it is nearing the point for maintenance which is based on the odometer. The mechanic was supposed to reset that after the oil change.

Here is what another Highlander owner said: "2010 Highlander 4WD: System check panel I indicating the rear door is open, when it's not. Been to dealer 3 times. Car has 6000 miles on it. The rear door open indicator effects door locking ability with key fob as well as continual chime indicating rear door is open in conjunction with turning dome light off and on. Dealer thought it was rear door strike plate. Adjusted accordingly. This was not the problem. 3rd visit to dealer still trying to pinpoint why this is happening so far no luck. Electrical bad door sensor faulty electrical door switch this problem is very annoying and now times consuming 3 visits to the dealer and still no solution. Rear door open indicator initially made to stop by rolling down driver side window at highway speed. Indicator also made to go off when road turns to the left only. <- " moisture causing short in rear door electrical switch" maybe. something like this. You can remove it.

This is what fdfret said on Prius Online: "I've had power door lock go out on two cars. Both were the driver's door. The first one I just took the door liner off on and was able to squirt some lubricant on the mechanism. It cleared the problem on one but the other car had to have the electric door unit replaced".

http://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2008_Toyota_Highlander_Sport_3.5L_V6/lights/foglamp

its 8.5 mm

they are switches made into the lock mechanism itself..there may be a bad connection at that door..

I want to tell you that simply hammering things out are a thing of the past.

Youagainhuh.Oksmashouttheoriganalandreplacewithheavyplasticandducttape.

Iwouldstartwithcuttingthedooroffwithagrinder.

that is a lot just to replace a freeze plug... they are easy to change. prize out the damage one and fit a new one they just need to replace the one at fault. depending on which one is at fault. some are easy to get to and others you need space to get it out. or the real easy way to fix it is radweld in the water that will seal the leak and cost not a lot. and only take a 20 min drive down the road to stop the leak. the seal can last up to 20 years and with it in the system if you have another leak it will seal it. as long as it is within the first 2 weeks of putting it in the system. dont use the cheap stuff you get in a packet as it can block up the radiators but radweld will not only leaks that go to air.