Top 20 2010 Subaru Tribeca - Page 6 Questions & Answers

My first suspicion would be the Security Control Module. It could be going bad. It controls the Interrupt Relay, which allows the starter to crank. If this is reproducable, looking at the computer parameters when it happens may tell you what is input is missing.

Is this to work out which way up it goes into the engine block? If you look closely at the thermostat You will see a large spring on one end. That is the end that goes into the hole in the engine block. when it is in place you should not be able to see that spring.

If you have full battery power then the problem would be a starter motor issue! check wires to starter motor and starter motor itself!

Large vacuum leak, EGR stuck open, weak spark, restricted fuel filter .

I can help you

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqhQ38R017Q Watch this video for help.

Where I live most auto parts stores will check and give you the error code which set off the check engine light. That will tell you the basic system which is setting it off. You can search of what other have done to repair for the error code. https://www.engine-light-help.com/subaru-check-engine-light.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhDzA-6dFm4 https://www.youcanic.com/guide/subaru-check-engine-light-problems https://www.tricitysubaru.com/check-engine-light-on-.htm

You would have a better chance location one if you use the year, make, model, and engine size information.

That circuit usually includes these possible components: A/C Control Module Body integrated unit Light control sensor Transmission Control Module Engine Control Module Fuel pump relay Ignition coil No. 1 (turbo model) Ignition coil No. 2 (turbo model) Ignition coil No. 3 (turbo model) Ignition coil No. 4 (turbo model) If it takes a minute to blow the fuse then definitely one of components in list is causing too much amperage. try a slightly larger fuse.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sDib7zW00Vk

There are two ways to do this. First is to remove entire instrument panel or cut a hole in your firewall and alwayts have easy access to your core

The issue appears to be associated with the accident. That should not break the radar unit. It would realign the antennas, maybe damage an antenna or wiring or connector. That is where I would look. Since you already replaced the radar unit part and bumper, that is about the only thing left. Check the wiring carefully.

https://www.quora.com/If-a-power-generator-is-running-but-no-voltage-is-produced-what-could-be-wrong-and-how-could-it-be-solved

odd as it might seem only a person that can put hands on it can assist you

Any codes? Many issues, tune-up, coils, wires, crankshaft sensor, cam sensor ??

Little point assuming it should work without some meter work to ensure it is not only receiving power but is drawing enough current for it to become hot enough quickly enough for deicing duty. I don't know how much current that should be but I expect 20 - 30 amps would be realistic, maybe more.

Could be a sensor ,but your best bet is to have car scanned for transmission codes

Space saver wheel is reckoned safe and legal to take a car at greatly reduced speed to the nearest place where the puncture can be repaired or the tyre replaced. It is worth noting the recommended pressure and maximum speed is engraved on the sidewall of the space saver tyre, which is only suitable for normal road surfaces.

Its your waterpump

Probably because the system lost respons from one of your tmps sensors ... the tractioncontrolsystem requires the sensors to respond. Shutting down the tractioncontrolsystem is actually a safetyfeature because if it where to respond i could behave eratically because of the misding data