Top 20 2010 Jeep Commander Questions & Answers

Find the starter relay in the under hood fuse block. Make sure the vehicle is in park then remove the starter relay and locate cavity #30 and #87 use a short wire to touch these terminals together for a second if the vehicle starts replace the relay.

car is in what country, must we guess that?????XH jeep, in Europe?if in usa, only 8000 sold here, its rare car hereand ended in 2010. here.this is a USA forum.my jeep has no such part, unless it's got rear heat.the below is the metal tube , w/o rear heat EZH engine.my guess commander limited>?the jeep part will be expensive 70- $100 each hose.Continental make it. too. the first 2 imagages are from no rear heat, on EZH engine.the last image is an export jeep or built in Europe.if you do web searchesyou find others finding Goodyear,sets.with steel fittings.. not plastic.goodyear (says see Continental(gates? (no)Dayco.(no)Continental ,yes. 64243 and 44. (seems 4.7L only)try looking in there online cats.found 1 of 2. for the EZH 5.7L engine. with rear, heater option.continental 64248the oddity on above.

the caliper to knuckle bolts? front or rear. my gawd, its in the FSM. the WK is here. read it? see chapter called brakes. its all there, every step. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service RTM, ok , page 379 side pins 18 (f and R) front caliper anchor bolts are 125 (foot/pound)

click this link, find your engine and click the picture to enlarge it. https://www.google.com/search?q=2010+jeep+commander+spark+plug+wiring+diagram&client=aff-maxthon-maxthon4&hs=0e0&affdom=maxthon.com&sa=x&channel=t26&biw=925&bih=609&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&ei=xdy_vidsb4kmggty2ihidq&ved=0cdoq7ak

that one of 2 things

1. wrong size fuse, do not guess, use correct size
2. the line is shorted, an ammeter finds it easy, and amp clamp meter 10x that. more easy. ever seen one.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/72-7224 or this far cheaper its magnetic ammeter http://www.fixkick.com/tools/25100.jpg

use an ammeter that i posted in your first post

the fsm covers this. controls bad. damper bad. or the damp flap stuck simple tests in the FSM cover this., as does the removal.

No the fuel pump should engage with the ignition switch.

only 2 possibles 1: no power , 12vdc to motor 2: motor bad. (got 12vdc there active) 3: or its jammed. to tell if its jammed is easy , disconnect the motor drive then turn the drive end by hand , cant move it? that means the panel tracks are jammed and the motor can't move it. so unjam it, by close examinations. of the guides etc. the FSM has the full instructions on this, why not read the FSM then ask questions that are not clear there. or?

Possibly bad heater hose going into or out of heater core.

at the part store

There is not a "serviceable" fuel filter on any late model jeeps. The filter is part of the fuel pump module and gets replaced when the fuel pump gets replaced. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

There should be two on the fuel pump module itself. A sock fit one on the bottom of the assembly and then one inside the module on the very bottom of the fuel pump itself.

Sorry dealer only software

I've had good luck Googling Youtube videos for this kind of thing. Or you could get a Chiltons/Haynes maual that covers your vehicle.

Read this post. https://www.jeepcommander.com/forums/41-interior-appearance-modifications/15067-air-vent-removal-question.html

Yes you need 16 plugs. You will need a good selection of different length 3/8" extensions, as well as a good plug socket with the rubber inside to grip the plug connector. You should also invest in a rubber plug installer tool (they are about 6" long and will pop over the terminal of the plug and can be used as a handle to make installation easier) These things are a pain to change, but it can be done without removing anything major. I use an old quilt over the engine so I can lay over the top to make reaching things easier. Have fun, good luck.

Hey Anon, Is this a total electronic key,,(push button start)..if so, its an electrical issue. If its a standard key urn ignition. try some DRY graphite on the key.. it will lubricate the switch without the mess of liquids... put the key in and out several times, put some more dry graphite on the key and repeat.. give this some time to work,, if this does not improve the switch.. its time for a new switch assy,

When was the last time you checked the transmission fluid level? It might be that time now.

thermostat is bad probably, not sure if the xk has a built in obd or not but turn the key on and off (almost till starting) 3 times called the key dance should spit a code on your led readout below spedo