20 Most Recent 2010 GMC Sierra 2500HD Questions & Answers

You would need a repair shop or the dealer that has a scanner that will connect with the body computer. Its different from an engine computer scanner or code reader.

have the OBD codes read

the p036 i believe you forgot a zero but that would be a misfire in cylinder 6 2nd from the back on the passenger side.p0171 is system is too lean on passenger side p219a fuel trim balance bank one which is passenger side . Take it to gm hopefully it is still under warranty

Possibly w/ this size tire your in a more torque area of the power curve.. see your that manual or door post sticker requmends tire wise...

You can't fool the switch. You will have to put an inline switch (toggle type or the like) on the circuits you wish to turn off. I used to do this on all of my cars years ago because I raced on the public roads and sometimes needed to hide from the good guys.

Here are the tie rod end nut torque specs: • Lower Control Arms - (Front and Rear bolt) 129 ft-lbs x2 and (Knuckle Stud) 37 ft-lbs • Upper Control Arms - (Front and Rear bolt) 140 ft-lbs x2 and (Knuckle Stud) 37 ft-lbs • Inner Tie Rods - 81 ft-lbs • Outer Tie Rods - (Knuckle Stud) Tie Rod nut 44 ft-lbs and jam nut 55 ft-lbs • Stabilizer Links - 17 ft-lbs • Rear Shocks - Lower and Upper 85 ft-lbs • Front Shocks - Module Bolt x2 37 ft-lbs, Module nut x3 37 ft-lbs and Stud nut 37 ft-lbs

I'd be looking at the switch first to see if it's not working.

The best solution you'll get from books at www.reliable-store.com These are books containing info on repair, service, troubleshooting, parts info, assembling dissemble, removal, error/fault codes, wiring diagrams and everything on any vehicles cars, atv, trucks. for klifts, boats, excavators etc

If you still have a carburetor there is a needle and seat that controls the float and sometimes they stick in one position and will let to much gas into the engine and causing the spark plugs to foul and not fire.

tim, I'm not sure if you have rear disc or drum brakes, but this is usually a caliper or brake cylinder (at the wheel) problem. If you have drum brakes, check for any problems like broken springs on the shoes, which would result in parts floating around, and brakes not releasing properly. The same for disc brakes, make sure nothing has become loose (mounting pins for caliper). If you find it is a brake cyl/caliper problem, you will need to rebuild or replace it. Make sure you bleed the brakes for the entire system (you want to flush out the system to prevent further problems), as old brake fluid can become contaminated (brake fluid absorbs water, which corrodes calipers and brake cylinders, leading to failure of those components). Last, make sure it isn't a parking brake that is not releasing. Parking brake cables corrode from exposure to the elements and can bind up, causing the brakes to drag. Use something like WD-40 on the cables to keep them operating correctly.

you need to have the airbag serviced! Sounds like a short circuit

It sounds as though you have either a frayed wire between the brake control circuit and tail/running light circuit of the truck side of the plug, or someone wired the truck side of the plug incorrectly. Think about it. The parking brake lights come on when the controller is activated. More than likely the tail lights are also. The tail lights are also going to come on when the headlights are on. This would cause the trailer brakes to be activated IF there is a short in the TRUCK side of the plug itself. That's where I would personally start investigating, The truck side of the trailer plug. Hope this helps.

Make sure the old filters rubber seal didnt stick to the filter housing when you removed it. While you have the filter off clean up the housing to filter seal. Ut some engine oil on the filter rubber seal befre putting it back on. Costs nothing and just takes a half hour of your time.