20 Most Recent 2010 GMC Sierra 1500 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Have you checked applicable fuses for everything except head lamps? The headlamps themselves don't use a fuse. Check the battery junction block under the hood, one of your positive battery cables should go to junction block. If several fusible links check them. My info shows red wire carries battery voltage to head lamp switch for headlamps. The headlamp switch has two voltage circuits, mainly, one for the head lamps, for the other lamps that the switch controls, those smaller lamps are fuse protected.

Could be the brake switch or the shift lock solenoid. You may be able to shift out of park by turning the key to the unlock position but not to the on position. That should make it possible to drive it to a shop. You can crank the engine in neutral. Make sure you set the parking brake first.

It appears you have a 5.0 or a 5.7 TBI motor. If you have no spark and/or no fuel injector pulse - the most common problem was the ignition module and the pickup on the distributor. Most aftermarket dists come completely rebuilt or new with module and pickup already installed. you need to line up and mark where the dist lines up with before removing. If you haven't ever pulled a distributor out before I would recommend getting someone that has do it instead. You can easily get it out of time and it will still not start after you are done.

try disconnecting your battery undr your hood..then reconnect.

Check fuel filter first

Hope this helps you.

Does the brake pedal go to the floor? Or does it stay up, and is hard to push...? Did you bleed the master cylinder? Also, you will need to bleed all 4 wheels connection to the brake wheel cylinders...you must start with the rear, farthest from the master cylinder, then other rear, then front farthest from the master cylinder, then other front...the bleeding of each line is a must, since you switched the master cylinder.

most just pull up it may take some force to get it by the lock ring. other wise look around the area that the head rest rods enter the set and look for a lock release button that you push while pulling up on the head rest.

Key on should energise fuses Fuel pump and EFI.

Neutral safety switch maybe. Make sure the gear selector is in park. Brake pedal engaged.

It might have a small lever just behind the key that you push down and then can rotate the key a bit before taking out

Your supposed to make a mark all that before you pull the distributor. Did you mark the relationship between distributor body and engine? Then you note where the rotor is pointing, make a scratch mark. When you reinstall the distributor, line up all the marks. If engine was turned with distributor out, You need to put the #1 piston on tdc of compression stroke. Stab the distributor, which ever spark plug tower the rotor is pointing at/turning into, becomes number 1. Then you follow the firing order around the cap in clockwise direction.

that has a votec engine in it the fuel pressure is droping at knight and it takes 60 psi before the injectors will fire most likely cause fuel pump ,leaking injector ,or a feul pressure regulator

Boy. Now you have opened a real can of worms. You will likely get many different answers, but the viscosity to use depends on the expected temperature where you will drive for the next several months. Use a quality multi-vis oil (Castrol, Valvoline, Kendal) and read owner's manual for basic recommendations. The milage on the engine affects your choice as well. I would use a 10-30 if engine has 100k to 200k, and perhaps 10-40 if in hot climates or engine has more wear.

1500 lbs

Many possibilites ,,clogged fuel filter ,, need's tune up ,,bad plug or ,,wires,, Vac. Leak ,,,,is ck Eng light on ??

This may be caused by a loose or cracked vacuum line if the system uses vacuum actuators to control the vanes.

Stuck relay