2011 Dodge Ram Pickup 2500 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Ideally it should be nothing. However, given all the electronics/accessories it should not be higher than 250ma or 1/4 amp. Even this low draw will drain an unused vehicles battery in a few days

Before you replace the alternator. A Simple Preliminary Car Starting Procedure If your car won't start, try this procedure:

• Check the battery cable connections:

Make sure the positive cable, makes a good connection at the battery and at the starter. Make sure the negative cable makes a good ground connection at the battery and (preferably) at the engine.

• Check the battery the simple way, like this:

Turn on the headlights, then try to start the car.If the headlights do not dim or go out, then the battery is likely ok.

• Check the starter and solenoid:

If the wiring looks ok, then look at the starter solenoid for a good connection, and proper voltage at the starter(10 volts minimum while cranking). If the starter spins and no crank, the problem is most likely the Solenoid's bendix gear is stuck. Have someone hit (not too hard) the starter while you try to start the car. This usually works by dislodging a stuck bendix gear.

google: 2011 Dodge Ram Pickup 2500 P2271 Engine code some mention of diesel. and O2 sensors. See if you can find others with your problem. Several times? Sounds like they owe you some more information. I'd get in touch with Dodge customer service!

I found this in the dodge forums may help.http://www.ramforum.com/f52/-dash_dvd_video_bypass_procedures-4601/Disclaimer, It is illegal to have any of these installed on a road-use vehicle, by doing these, you fully understand that you are breaking the law, and you can get a ticket. Please use safely. I do not take credit for finding these bypasses, these are all bypasses I didnt pay for there for sharing the info with everyone else.

Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor

P2169 DODGE - Throttle/Pedal Pos Sens B Maximum Stop PerfRead more: http://nissanhelp.com/diy/obd_codes/p2169_dodge.html#ixzz24lCag96h

check the engine to body ground strap. located rear top of engine screwed to firewall Remove,clean, and resecure.

If the motor has common rail injection it doesn't have a conventional injection pump but it does have a high pressure pump and if the pressure is slow to build due to air leaks, drain back or wear then injection will not begin until the rail pressure is sufficient. If there is a conventional injection pump it can still suffer similar maladies but will not be capable of generating such expressive codes. Codes incidentally, often indicate a relay or sensor or something has a fault, though that isn't as simple as it sounds and a code read is only a small step in a diagnostic process. Often it is just as likely the circuit that has the fault - wiring, connections or the ECU itself. Sometimes a fault code is an indication of a fault elsewhere. Other test equipment should be used to verify the fault code and no component should be replaced until it is found to be faulty using independent testing methods and when something must be replaced the circuit should be tested and success verified before moving on to the next stage. Basics first is the best practice rule and in addition to the obvious basic stuff it is worth noting a good cranking speed is essential and the injector spray patterns and pressures should be tested and while the injectors are out being tested/overhauled why not do a compression test...

fuel pressure? is it manual or electric turn on, on the diesel pump if electric faulty or loose connection to cut off solenoid?

If its not leaking on the ground, it must be leaking into the coolant via radiator. Nowhere else for it to go...

I use an impact gun. But I believe the torque is around 75 foot pounds. You will have to use a pry bar and torque wrench to get the right settings.

Make sure that your cellphone is not too close to your key fob. Reset the computer by getting out of the truck & shutting the door; get back in, & try starting it.

if there is a tow option on that truck check the wiring on the socket for the trailer.and where thy tie in to the rear lites sometimes ther is a short.hope this helps.lucas

The "NO BUS" points to PCM communication failure. Disconnect the battery negative then unplug and plug back in the PCM connectors. Reconnect battery and run engine. Try pulling DTCs with a code scanner. If the PCM won't communicate, it's probably fried.

You need to remove the Distributor Cap and then the rotor. The CPS sits right underneithethe distributor cap.--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------FGTech Galletto 2-Master EOBD2

Have you checked the block pressure.There was a problem with the impellor coming loose on the water pump which causes low block pressure and reduces circulation.You should also check the vent line to the rad and make sure the jiggle pin in there is ok it sounds like the system may be air locking

You must deflect the spring loaded belt tensioner and then route the belt accordingly. The diagrams for routing can be accessed here for fee.

belts dont just "fall off" find out what is wrong. .http://www.gates.com/common/part_locator/view_diagram.cfm?id=S8023

as always begin with the negitive on the battery remove terminal.there is what they call a ideler pulley for serpentine belt it typically takes a 3/8 ratchet to put torque on it to remove tension on belt ounce youve completed the belt tension removal move on to the altenator always if in daught on wiring create hand written diagram of wiring.remove wires now take tensioner bolt out,there should be one more for pivoting remove as well.reinstall in reverse.

I don't understand what you mean about the engine gaining RPM. Does it run alright, and just overheat with a/c on? If so, I would suspect your fan clutch. Hope this helps, TJ