It's not a fuse problem, you have electrical gremlins and need an automotive electrician to sort it out. So do yourself a favor and take it to a qualified repair shop.
doing all that lacking the service manual
the manual has the correct schematics
and meter finds this easy,
is battery weak, 12.6vdc rested, 10v is dead wrong.
1992 when did it run right, last week last year, or?
which engine 3.0Liter?
is this a USA car?
the engine stuck on like that is caused by PCM relay bad.
it is stuck on.
or IGN switch bad, or its IGN pin wires shorted to hot all the time feeds. some way, like ALARM hacks do (add on struff)
the cause is ECM (ECU) is not going off line, due the power not going dead, key off.
3 causes.
bad power on relay
bad ignition switch
bad wiring on IGN1 pin of IGNition switch.
Question edited for clarity, but NO MODEL!!
Question moved from MISCellaneous to Cadillac, but we have 'make year model' categories for them all.
What is the resting voltage of the battery? All modern cars, especially high-end, electronically computerized makes like Cadillac need a minimum voltage to run correctly. IIRC it is around 11 volts.
You need our electronics Expert Jeff Armer on this one.
Ideally you need an auto-electrician rather than a garage workshop. Their $5,000 bi-directional scan tool computer can diagnose the ECM, BCM all the modules and sensors, plus all the computer network connections between them. Choose a mobile one and they will come to you. They are less expensive than a garage because they are mobile and have low overheads.
https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me
..
old old old car.38 years later.
when did it last run good, last week , last yea,r last decade/?
fast idle is vacuum leak, or bad IAC. 1500rpm cold is normal not 3000
overheating has many causes. (huge) need a list or just wan to buy tools to test it and find it.> ???
gue$$ing is hard, work and a real slog. hear goes 1 slog1.
due to age here is the list (a test each)
running 38 year old antifreeze? Lol ?
38 year old thermostat? 7 years is design life EOL ,oops.
engine compression test passes? 180-PSI? wot done?
rad and engine block flushed out of red rust mud.
38 year old water pump is no good nor is the belt. now.
RaD LEAK DOWN TEST, A TOOL; PASS OR FAIL.?
RAD , gas test (exh) a tool that see exhaust fumes in the RAD coolant, green/blue tester all shops have all this here. I typed.
water leaks anywhere under car or passenger toes. , not the side tank blow out you told and is clear
see milk-chocolate for oil in pan, oops leaks. coolant.
see milk-chocolate in tranny pan (did sticked , oops)
Rad CAP must be replaced this old. the rubber gasket in it is dead.
next is see oil or carbon dust in the RAD neck cap off dead cold engine. and full to the top of said neck. (free test eyeballs)
ok all is good above and does it overheat only parked or driven or both or only AC on. or all the above, I bet yes all.
if overheats parked, the fans must all be good are they.?
If still overheats we use IR gun tool and run the beam ever every inch of RAD TUBES. and must show 50f degree variance or more
per tube end to end if not that TUBE is clogged up, RAD BAD./
that is all for now I can do more. if need be..
on simple cause is not checking RAD water level dead cold engine
and making sure that side spill tanks has good tubes inside and work (as engine cools it sucks back coolant.) if tubes bad fix them
or check coolant like 1929 days,RAD cap off. look cold.
Coolant expands naturally hot. that side tank captures it for next cool down cycle and bad rad caps to wreck this cycle.
full stop fingers tired.
pretend caddy here,,, funny then and Diane Keaton hot .(x100)
the bug only needs a fan belt to stay cool.... (owned 2, 1970 to now)
https://youtu.be/Xo2kSu6O8cU?t=2
keep cool.
the side tank blow outs are also warped heads and or bad headgasets
if you see STEAM at tail pipe end hot engine the head gaskets are bad. 1 or both. or far worse crack block.or cracked heads.
id have looked at the tail first. (steam in front yes, look in rear)
USA car or not? or those pesky Canada cars with DRL option???????? No country told , day1 new delivered to what country matters ! not told. you why>?does car driver 100% okay> other wise. ????why, well it's failing.( if does in dark that is fail)is there a cure , sure, fix it. (or disable it)the first thing to do is :1: check all fuses (for blown) all , skip none , cab/bay2: then scan the PCM with any OBD2 scan tool. sold in USA.3: ask maker Cadillac to disable this silly feature that made a full good car, useless, my car I had all that disabled. (or by me as the case my be)DRL is daylight running light , option. Ive defeated many, and that electric EYE bull.cure 2, a HACK.the sensor wires to the IP cluster directlyit is 5vdc sensor. seen here.just unplug the sensor, see if that works.this puts.pin c12 at 5vdc, (sunny day)if not jumper C12 to D14 ground, now it works.no sure me cell tech here, Silicon or cadmium/sulfide.vast posts exist on this, and many found no cure.examples areread the manual yet, in the glove box? lost it? just slide the Sentinel to OFF and the problem goes away.read lost manual page 115 yetthe knob answers.https://www.manualslib.com/manual/231137/Cadillac-1998-Deville.html?page=115&term=sent&selected=1#manualand for fun read about others persons pains on topic here.https://www.cadillacforums.com/threads/daytime-light-sensor.1001697/
I'm assuming yours has an automatic transmission. Do you have any warning lights on the dashboard? Is it doing, (or not doing), anything else? Do you get this high revving at idle once the engine has warmed up to working temperature?
This issue could be either an fuel supply issue, an engine electronics issue or even a transmission issue. Have you had it plugged into a diagnostic system or an obd2 scanner to check for trouble codes? These will give clues to where the issues might be.
If you have to pay for this service get quotes at 4 or 5 places as prices can be VERY different. If you get the codes comment below with them and i'll try to help you more.
Sounds like you are trying to fry your Escalade. There is an anti-theft system that requires the key be present in the ignition. If the key isnt it may be bent or altered somehow so it doesnt turn. Check to see of the steering wheel can move at all in either direction. There may be tension on the ignition that prevents the key from turning.
CarGurusJan 21, 2014 - Cadillac Deville 2001 won't start, engine won't turn over - My cadillac won't start. ... Crank not starting - service theft system in dash: There are 2 starter ....I have a 2002 Cadillac ... that all of a sudden stopped turning over ...
? 3:50
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5SBKPut7G8
Mar 30, 2014 - Uploaded by eastcoasthoopty
2001 Cadillac wont start thought it was the chip in the key but it was ... I have a 2002 Seville In the morning I start my car noproblem, once its ...
? 0:43
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUdX_Vnt1qI
May 10, 2013 - Uploaded by Shane Moore
Cadillac Deville 2001 won't Start .... i have a 2002 cadillac DTS. My issue is it will not idle, it will not start unless you have your foot to the gas all ...
that is called r Transmission FLARE or False neutrals.
the pump is weak !(or leaks caused)
ATF levels correct at the dip stick. yes,
try a full transmission flush and fill ATF and the correct kind.
maybe some other jokers used engine oil or diesel or other junk there. (as in junk SNAKE OIL lucas CRAPPPPPPPPPPP
the same pump fills the TC so , learn that.
if you read the service manual
it tells the techs to check main tranny pump pressure test PORT for first.
if ATF flush fails.
all transmission shops know that and do that if you ask.
low line pressure has many causes and is super common.
1: bad AFT or pan filter in packed up with crapppppp
2: a bad pump
3: bad pump regulator (pressure)
4: output major oil gallery leaks end to end due to bad seals or cracked slave diaphragms.(actuators to bands or clutch packs)
and more, see that nice 3d drawing of the AT and all those ways to fail> (lost pressure)
the ATF gets thinner hit and leaks more.
overfilling the tranny is so common due to ignorance, or thinking is done like the engine and so bad and act maker remove the dipstick
ending in warranty blow up trans endlessly by daft custmers.
the steps are, this.
hot engine fully hot, 180f+ coolant
and my car calls for 80f ATF coolant that or bit higher.
then running engine
in park only.
dipstick checked, on my 2010 jeep I have to buy the dipstick from jeep and put it , as non sold have it. see what I mean?
never overfill it, or it will foam up and foam is mostly bubbles and bearings starve NOW and goes train wrecked damage, even seized.
never use ADDITIVES here only use Caddy spec'd ATF , check carefully do not ASSUME.
some super nasty additives (snake oil)_ even melts seals.
a huge travesty that, (new trans cost)
some additives even wreck the ATF chemistry there, OMG BAD.
NOt TOLD WHO OR WHAT TOLD YOU IT MISFIRED?P03XXX DTC ERRORS OR SEAT OF PANTS./I CAN NOT GUESS.DOES IT DRIVE OK, NOT TOLDyour idle controls are a mess.does car drive ok or not, a huge problem not telling his fact.yes misfire is common and lots of causes and testswhy not get a shop ASE to do the tests. using tools and skills.
Vehicle Theft Deterrent (VTD) Description and Operation
The vehicle theft deterrent (VTD) system functions are provided by the theft deterrent control module. When an ignition key is inserted into the ignition lock cylinder and the ignition is switched ON, the transponder embedded in the head of the key is energized by the exciter coils surrounding the ignition lock cylinder. The energized transponder transmits a signal that contains its unique value, which is received by the theft deterrent control module. The theft deterrent control module then compares this value to a value stored in memory, learned key code. If the value is correct the theft deterrent control module sends a random generated number to the transponder, this is called a challenge. Both the transponder and the theft deterrent control module perform a calculation on the challenge, if the calculations match the theft deterrent control module sends the fuel continue password via the serial data circuit to the Engine control module (ECM). If either the transponders unique value or the calculation to the challenge is incorrect the theft deterrent control module will send the fuel disable password to the ECM via the serial data circuit. The components of the VTD system are as follows:
• Theft deterrent control module
• Engine control module (ECM)
• Ignition key (Transponder)
• Ignition lock cylinder
• Security indicator
Theft Deterrent Control Module
Vehicles with steering column mounted ignition switches have the exciter integral with the theft deterrent control module which is located within the steering column. Vehicles with instrument panel mounted ignition switches have exciter modules separate from the theft deterrent control module with the vehicle wiring harness connecting the two. The theft deterrent control module for vehicles with instrument panel mounted ignition switches is located within the instrument panel. The theft deterrent control module can learn up to ten keys (transponder values).
The theft deterrent control module uses the following inputs, battery voltage, ignition switched voltage and ground circuit. The theft deterrent control module uses the following outputs, password exchange with the ECM, fuel continue/disable via the serial data circuit.
When an ignition key is inserted into the ignition lock cylinder and the ignition is switched ON, the transponder embedded in the head of the key is energized by the exciter coils surrounding the ignition lock cylinder. The energized transponder transmits a signal that contains its unique value, which is received by the theft deterrent control module. The theft deterrent control module then compares this value to a value stored in memory, learned key code. If the value is correct the theft deterrent control module sends a random generated number to the transponder, this is called a challenge. Both the transponder and the theft deterrent control module perform a calculation on the challenge. The theft deterrent control module then performs one of the following functions:
• If both the transponder value and the calculation to the challenge are correct, the theft deterrent control module will send the fuel continue password to the ECM via the serial data circuit.
• If either the transponders unique value or the calculation to the challenge is incorrect the theft deterrent control module will send the fuel disable password to the ECM via the serial data circuit.
• If the theft deterrent control module is unable to measure the ignition key transponder value for one second due to a damaged or missing pellet or a damaged exciter, the theft deterrent control module will send the fuel disable password to the ECM via the serial data circuit.
Important: On some vehicles, If the VTD system is unable to read the ignition key transponder value after the vehicle has started, the VTD system will consider itself malfunctioning. The VTD system will enter a fail enable state and will command the security indicator to illuminate. When the VTD system is in a fail enable state the vehicle will NOT stall or stop running. If the VTD system is in a fail enable state when the ignition is switched OFF, the VTD system will remain fail enable until it is able to read a learned ignition key transponder value. When the VTD system is in a fail enable state the VTD system is NOT active and the vehicle will start. This feature is NOT available on all GM vehicle lines.
all fuses good , first, (endless and forever stated )
the starter relay has on output pin.
and input and 2 coil wires.
the relay clicks and the output pin must go to 12vdc and if starter not dead it spins and the voltage NOW can sag easy to 10vdc.
due to normal battery internal resistance , all have.
you do know right any starter (solenoid type) can be hot wired.
we unplug the 1 solenoid wire. FIRST. (a tiny Faston 1 pin lug)
here are the ROPES, me done 100s of times, 1960s up.
1: chock wheels.
2; shifter in park.
3: key off all the time , no kids in the cab .
4: we make jumper wire with an inline 15amp fuse (or20)
this prevents wire burning up in hands, if wire is shorted or solenoid is bad and shorted.
5 we now jump PLUS lug main battery to that fast on pin on the starter solenoid.
6: see engine crank , spin over, see the stare is good and relay not.
or bad PRNDL switch, on trannybox.
to be more safe I connect bottom wire first
and the try to reach battery form the side of car. vastly more safe that standing front.
that is how I do it and have never failed to find the cause.
other causes are endless (wires make that true)
someone (sadly)
hacked in REMOTE START junk.(and deadly google it)
or hacked in and ALARM system and wires to starter are a wreck
that is what hacking earns, failure.
this is why a real tech looks at all those point with eyes for HACKING.
I be blind here why ask the blind ?
I have personally seen most the blunders done to cars wiring)
even road hazards can hit starter and just break that wire.
I look first.
