Look at base of front windshield on the drivers side. You will also find sticky labels with the VIN on door panels, trunk, hood. In some states it is also on the vehicle registration.
Where I live, Canada, a car is deemed modified when the owners changes things that are not available from the manufacturer. Depending on the extent of the modifications you may need an engineer's certificate for roadworthiness here. Anything that is available as a manufacturer's option wouldn't fall into that category, because they certify that it is fit to be driven on the road with these options when they ship it. Hope this helps.
Though I do not have the specific factory recommendation for this vehicle, I can tell you that 85 ft-lbs is the industry standard torque for all alloy wheels. No manufacturer will build a car that requires a significantly different torque because the tire shops would trash it.
The important thing is not that the lug nuts are at the correct torque to achieve a specific pressure (as with head bolts) or a specific degree of stretch (as with flywheel bolts) but rather that they all be the same, so that the force on the hub and brake rotor is uniform. The bolts just have to be tight enough so they don't come loose and the brake heat can transfer to the wheel, but not so tight that they damage the wheel. 85 ft-lbs uniform tension will get you where you want to be.
By the way, if you want to take good care of your hubs, brakes, and wheels, don't let anyone else touch them. The tire shop will tell you that they use their impact wrenches to snug the nuts only to 60 ft-lbs, then tighten the lugs the rest of the way with their torque wrenches. Stand outside their shop and watch them sometime. 90% of the time, they put their torque wrench on and don't get any more turn on the bolt before the wrench clicks. That means the nut is already tighter than 85 ft-lbs, and they have no idea how much tighter.
It sounds like the key needs reprogramming. When the battery was removed, it lost its memory. Visit the Dealership, and Auto-Electrician or an Alarm Installer.
Check microswitch in bonnet catch using a multimeter in continuity setting. To do this you will need to disconnect the microswitch connector and remove.
Watch the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RpFbQQQnvO4
If you short the connector with a piece of wire and check the dash. This will simulate a switch closure. If it still shows bonnet open, then the wiring from the bonnet sensor switch is damaged and will need to be fixed.
alot of trimmers know how to do plastic welding and repairs to some plastics
ask or look up some of your local motor trimmers or bumper bar painters repair people
