Top 20 2007 Jaguar S-Type - Page 7 Questions & Answers

sounds like you my have a d2b fibre optic network problem or the head unit has gone down or the amp has gone u/s and blown all you speakers common prob..pick a speaker and test it with a ohm meter or a 1.5 v battery it should make a crackling sound if you connect a little battery across the terminals

Don't think the sensors were the problemYou never change the rear monitors anywayYou use the code & reference material, to diagnosewhat the code tells you,doubt that was doneLook at fuel trim on that bank, it should be richCheck & clean MAF Sensor & all intake ducting for vacuum leaksSmoke test intake & manifold, as well as exhaust before cat if you need toIf fuel pressure is good & only one bank is rich scope O2 Sensorto confirm then scope the injectors on that bank & you will se if they stickMay have to remove all injectors & mail away for ultra sonic cleaning

head gasket or oil cooler.

you will have to go to jag dealer or find someone with compatible diagnostic equipment sonds like you fob has lost its rolling code or gone faulty

Most likely have to go to a salvage yard& get an oil pan

in the boot fuse box i think or in the boot somewere but bear in mind the fuel pump is pulse width modulated to control fuel pressure and also has a fuel pump module wich may be part of the powertrain module on some models the relay provides 12 volts and the module grounds the pump by pulsing it on/off to control fuel pressure so be carefull if you are going to test it by grounding or putting 12 volts to it

Your tv is analogue so it will never work anymore without a decoder

fuse box rh lower a post i think or boot fuse box some models

Have an old XJ6 in the garden with the radio still in it .

what model is it have worked on jags 49 years need more info to help

OBD-II Monitor Testing Incomplete

There are several things which can be wrong. Your car has a "cold start routine" which is similar to the old style choke. It uses a temperature sensor to trigger the effect. Most likely the sensor is failing to cue the routine.On some cars there are 2 sensors with 1 operating the temperature gauge and the second operating the engine controls. You want to change the sensor for the engine control.Another few possibilities are the ISC (idle speed control) which is a solenoid resting horizontally in the intake manifold. They can soot up and cause idle problems until they free up. And the EGR could be dirty and need flowing exhaust to free itself.Last, but not least are your O2 sensors. They have heaters built in them to rapidly restore your idle to a lean condition. They should set a problem Code but a lot depends on the total of other factors that determine driveability. Their performance could be off but still within working range.Finally, some engines have a part called a manifold runner. They can stick. IF your engine has this part this is another possibility.Last, a small Vacuum leak. When cold metal heats up small Intake gasket leaks can reseal. Spraying a water mist from a spray bottle will make an engines' RPM change or stall. Just wet the seams of the intake manifold while it runs.Please rate my info.

Nothing really to clean Just an aluminum casting with a throttle plateSpray with CRC Throttle Body CleanerAll fuel injected vehicles are a dry system intakeOnly the egr areas get nastyI think you got ignition issues,vacuum leaks,old O2 Sensors,other things to work on.

The cruise is not separately fused.

Sir,Time to replace the car?Was the car transported back by boat or such? Maybe it was damaged in transit - have it inspected by a body shop.The alignment issue is likely due to worn out parts - you need to go a mechanic that can determine if the ball joints/tie rods/control arms/bushings/etc are worn and what to replace.Replace the O2 sensor - not the catalytic converter. ...I don't know how many it has. The mechanic should 've been able to tell you how many??GL,TD

if its a 2012 see the dealer should be under warrantee

Hi Jerry, When the LED flashes there is a fault in the system recorded in the ECU. Take the vehicle for a diagnostic scan and find out what has been recorded and have the problem attended to. Regards John

GO TO YOUR BATTERY AND BEFORE YOU DO REMOVE THE TERMINALS,USE A MEMORY SAVER ON JUST TO PROTECT THE RADIO CODE,IF YOU DO NOT HAVE IT NOT TO STAY WITHOUT RADIO BECAUSE LATER YOU NEED CODE TO PUT IT IN ORDER, THEN PROCEED ON REMOVING ONE BY ONE THE TERMINALS AND BY USING A BRASH OR SAND PAPER,CLEAN BOTH SURFACES ON NEGATIVE AND POSITIVE TERMINALS FOR GOOD CONTACT. USE ALSO A BATTERY TERMINALS GREASE FOR PROTECTION.

Hi Richard, I'm not an expert on Jags, just a little jealous I don't have one. Looks like a very nice vehicle. Have a close look, inspecting all hoses and vacuum pipes on the intake manifold side of the engine for any damage or loose fitting. The problem seems to be a leakage of air which is raising the idle speed. Regards John

Try disconnecting the car battery and joining the two leads together and leave for a hour then reconnect the battery ,it works for the immobilisor failing which it needs reprogramming ,Sorry but according to my alldata book they can only be re-programmed using dealer diagnostic software ? but the battery disconnection may work as it has in the past for me but not always or i was just lucky