2001 Ford F-350 Super Duty - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I would think the you might have a defective steering control box

The easiest way to find them is look at the new part.There is like four on top, you may have to release the hood hinge also. remove the inner fender cover. Under there are one or two. In the door jam, pull the felt and one is there.

If you have a trailer hitch electrical connection plug it might have ice in it creating a short

have you checked your fuell pump for proper pressure

Starter drive not fully engaging from the flywheel. Change starter.

need more input

Check the indicator cable inside the column shrouds.

the fuel puddle has to be fixed to stop a fire occurring . It may be related as there may be a pressure loss that is getting a vapour lock happening.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. check the link https://www.google.com/search?q=2014+Ford+F-350+Super+Duty.+Turn+signal+flasher+location ..

I have replaced one in my ford exp. It was easy but mine was toward front of engine and easy to get to. I am not sure where #10 is on your 350.

Google the question & read up on it Go to You Tube Video & watch All your questions are on the internet Won't be easy, unless you have to experience & touch of a machinist Look at the tool required on the net & see how it is used

Mr. Harris, My advise is to drain the water and fuel mixture from your fuel tank,remove if is easy the fuel tank and completely dry it up,Go by the engine bay and find the fuel pipe which is coming from the tank to the injection system where probably is a fuel filter,renew the fuel filter, blow air in the pipe from the engine side towards the fuel tank-but before you do blow air in the pipe be sure is not connected to the fuel tank,for not sending the water back in. If you did not start the car since water went into fuel,means that you finished with the above,by connecting everything and put fuel in the tank and start the engine. If you did have the engine running when water went into fuel,means that you have to remove the spark plugs and whilst are out and the fuel tank is clean with new fuel and fuel filter make the engine spinning second to second for 2-3 minutes so as the any old fuel to push out from the spark plug holes. After clean your spark plugs or renew them and also before running the engine is good to put an injection cleaner additive in the fuel tank. Better to put fuel up to a quarter of the tank and run it treating all the system.

My initial thought is Aluminum can be welded. Depends on cracks relationship to mounting bolts. Check and see if Bell housing is separate from transmission. May be able to swap bell housings and keep transmission. You may want a good Salvage yard site like Carparts.com. They have a Nationwide link to many Salvagers. One request and you could get 300 responses.

Something seriously loose or worn: - steering box mounts - steering column universal joint or end clamp - steering box inner ball joints - tie rod ends - outer ball joints - wheel centre hub nut - wheel stud nuts A simple test is to jack up both front wheels and place the vehicle on axle stands. Then have someone hold the steering wheel, grab a front wheel at the 9-and-3 o'clock position, and shake it hard in and out. If you can feel slack or looseness, or the person holding the steering wheel can, you have a dangerous fault which should be fixed ASAP.

Might well be a cam sensor. Located on the front of the engine it is held in by one cap screw and is easy to replace. Most of those were recalled and replaced by Ford but they do go bad from time to time.

just because the rotors are new dosen't mean they come out of the box 100%,you might have one that is running out,causing the pulse,most pften it is recommended to have them turned on a brake lathe prior installation (saves you the trouble of doing the job twice)

The following are the general instructions on the start of diagnosing any electronically controlled engine or transmission problem.

The engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer replaced (known as the PCM or ECM,ECU), which is very rarely the problem. Other basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine. The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related problems. Also engine mechanical problems can and do cause many drive-ability related problem such as rough idle and other symptoms.

Think maybe the burnt wires would bea problem !!

I would suggest that this noise is the exhaust cooling down it gets up to 1000F when running and that hot of metal makes noise as it contracts and cools.

Have the door ajar switches scanned, one may be sticking on.