2003 Dodge Ram Pickup 2500 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Look under the a/c compressor toward the rear in the intake manifold.

Probably the turbo impeller noise.

remove wheel, spin hub with your hands, listen closely. May be something simple. May be bad wheel bearing. Start with simplest first.

It's your radiator, it's blocked.

Check for fuel delivery...may be fuel pump?

Did you check voltage at the circuit breaker? Goes hot with the key on. Use a test light to check voltage.Just to add, the wiring diagram I looked at, no bcm control.At the wire harness, hinge side of driver door, tan wire is voltage and black wire is ground, check both. I saw what you replaced,but, you didn't say you had good voltage and ground for the system?

Probably not usual, unless you are having very rough driveing and constant steering load on the system. Some of the linkage may have been bent, or not lubricated so that would also increase the load on the pump. The second two pumps are probably aftermarket or rebuilt?

There are usually two fuses on the panel. Pull them out. Light will stay on though.

you can try running CLR into the heater core and let sit then flush the heater core out with water. you may have to repeat to get it cleaned out enough. the only other way is to have it pulled out of the truck and replaced. this is not a cheap job to do. you don`t say what the reason was for add it to the cooling system. this product is not suppose to do this there fore you might have a lot of debris blocking the core that is from the rest of the cooling system and the system may have to be professionally flushed out.

I don't believe a diesel engine uses a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor since a diesel engine does not create vacuum.

no you have the steering shaft rubbing on plastic in the steering coloum no grease fitting there

either you have a bad thermostat or you have a air lock in your heater hoses remember your heater is fed by the hose by the upper rad hose return is the hose going to the water pump, to bleed the air out fill rad leave the rad cap off start engine run for 5 min. the check the coolant level,fill to top of neck replace rad cap tight, K-D tools make a special funnel to solve this air lock problem

check that the heater control is working and allowing water through the heater . Check that there is not an air lock in the cooling system that is preventing coolant flowing through the system.

if you have a right signal on the truck and no signal on the trailer then you need to check the wire were it comes from the truck wire harness to the trailer plug. possibly a bad trailer plug also

check the engine to body ground strap. located rear top of engine screwed to firewall Remove,clean, and resecure.

If the motor has common rail injection it doesn't have a conventional injection pump but it does have a high pressure pump and if the pressure is slow to build due to air leaks, drain back or wear then injection will not begin until the rail pressure is sufficient. If there is a conventional injection pump it can still suffer similar maladies but will not be capable of generating such expressive codes. Codes incidentally, often indicate a relay or sensor or something has a fault, though that isn't as simple as it sounds and a code read is only a small step in a diagnostic process. Often it is just as likely the circuit that has the fault - wiring, connections or the ECU itself. Sometimes a fault code is an indication of a fault elsewhere. Other test equipment should be used to verify the fault code and no component should be replaced until it is found to be faulty using independent testing methods and when something must be replaced the circuit should be tested and success verified before moving on to the next stage. Basics first is the best practice rule and in addition to the obvious basic stuff it is worth noting a good cranking speed is essential and the injector spray patterns and pressures should be tested and while the injectors are out being tested/overhauled why not do a compression test...

fuel pressure? is it manual or electric turn on, on the diesel pump if electric faulty or loose connection to cut off solenoid?

If its not leaking on the ground, it must be leaking into the coolant via radiator. Nowhere else for it to go...

I use an impact gun. But I believe the torque is around 75 foot pounds. You will have to use a pry bar and torque wrench to get the right settings.

Make sure that your cellphone is not too close to your key fob. Reset the computer by getting out of the truck & shutting the door; get back in, & try starting it.