2008 GMC Yukon XL - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

remove the plug pops off easy and using a 1/2 inch deep socket and tighten the nut

Turkey baster or unplug hose under fill tank and drain.

The most common problem is brake light switch, assuming all other items are ok.

I think that has 2 metal L shaped retaining bars on back sides of assembly. Pull those up and top section falls off basically..remove bulb by twisting and pour water out..can drill small hole in bottom back side to let future water drain..if hole is seen it can be failed for inspection...but so can water or condensation in light.. Replace assembly a seal is bad or cracked The bottom light is held in w a tab behind light once top section is out it will visible le

Would you say it is a knock from the bottom of the engine, or from the top ? Bottom is probably engine bearings, top could be valves or lifters.

check the shock looking struts they hold it up the motor just lifts it up

check the shocks, they may be bad

Sounds like the compressor is ok, but the orifice tube may be plugged, making the high pressure side shoot up to too high of a pressure rather quickly. When the pressure on the high side goes down, then the compressor tries to turn on and circulate refrigerant again, but can't for long because of the restriction.

There could be metal filings from the older compressors which were replaced still in the plumbing. Will have to evacuate the system and replace plumbing parts as necessary.

Hopefully your compressor is covered by warranty, but I would not count on it if contamination from old compressors was not properly removed by the prior service.

I would try to get warranty service, though.


The 'snow flake' blinks showing a problem in the a/c system.

{: ) Could it be that something is lodged inside the ignition key cylinder, or could it have been tampered. If the same problem applies to your spare keys, the next thing to do is to remove the ignition key cylinder, disassemble, inspect, and proceed to servicing or repairs.

try the parts desk at a GMC dealer, this is not going to be a parts store item.

This is not true I have many customer that have the same problems Yukon and sierra has this problem the battery will show 12 then 14 there are 2 pin and 4 pin connection The main problem that I have seen lately is the terminal spreads and does not make good connection. To begin with the alternator is ECM controlled. Ask them these questions and have them put in writting what they found and I am sure they will nail it on the head, this is the process I used to find the problem . 1. the minimum resistance to case and engine block. 2. what is the vltage at the " I" terminal 3. Pin 4 and 5 at the DLC diagnostic connection the voltage drop measurement .The voltage drop at DLC must be no more than .02vlts this is the way you can help them find the charging problem.

Get the vehicle Checked by a real shop SOON. failure to do so could result you getting blown into back seat by a malfunctioning airbag. ... more likely the bag just wont go off when hit hit something going 70mph.

the nuts to remove the light assy. are located in the cargo compartment you may have to remove a plastic panel to gain access to them

You can try out some guide from here reliable-store. com they also provide live chat feature for instant help and it's very useful

Short in the wiring or connector pins . Possible short in AC clutch .

Visit the on-line store, known as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem. Best Manuals

Can be done by a dealer or a shop

The computer turns on the code when the signal is received from the TPS switch on the throttle body.

Bad neutral safety switch? Engine locked?

Make sure trans fluid is full. See owners manual for proper dipstick test.