2009 Mercury Milan - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

chip damaged --failed--inserted wrong

Wrench light on ? DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes stored ! Problem with electronic throttle control . Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop .

Should have 12 volts at the rear window connectors when on and cold enough for it to turn on. If so the element may not be making a solid connection. They have kits to repair this if this is the case.

Sorry you will have to consult the dealer for the services of the nerdy looking one with the laptop under his arm on this ,suspect a fault with electricals if this is a auto version ,well its a american so it must be a auto as they dont have proper instructors who can teach students how to drive a manual vehicle .Do love winding up my american cousins over this but the fact is its a 2009 model with more electronics than the apollo moon mission in 69

More than likely, the handle hardware is broken at the back of the handle. The inside and outside handles are connected to the latch mechanism directly by 2 different rods; one from the outer handle to the latch, and one from the inner handle to the latch.The handle has a bar coming from the handle, and there's a hole at the end of this bar. The hole has a rod in it that connects the handle and the latch. When you pull the handle, it pulls the rod, and the rod pulls the latch, and the door opens. The handle is plastic, and so it's common for it to crack and break. With your vehicle being a 2009, is it still under any kind of warranty? That'd be easiest.This repair is simple, but not always easy. The procedure is simple, but often it's very tight, and thus, difficult to get everything iin and out without bad words. You need to remove and replace the interior handle assembly. If you're not one that works on cars, then you'll want to take it to a shop. Price the handle at a salvage yard and at the dealer so you have an idea of availability and what the price range is. There WILL be a big difference, so it may be worth it to buy the part before taking the car to the shop. Then you only pay for labor. Also, always ask to see your old parts at the shop. They can show you what broke.If you want to do it yourself, here's the general procedure:1. Remove the inner door handle faceplate. Usually it's held on by a screw located in the 'well' of the handle, behind the actual handle itself. Sometimes it will be covered by a cover to make it 'pretty.' Pry that off/open with a small screwdriver, if nec. Gently pull out on the faceplate, both front and rear, as sometimes, they are held in with tabs at the front and a screw at the back, for example.2. Once the faceplate is removed, you should be able to see the handle assembly. This is also usually held on by one or 2 screws. Remove the screws.3. Gently pull out on the handle assembly. Sometimes you may have to slide it backward or forward before it will pull outward. It's held on by rods in the back. There are many, usually 3-4 that are for the lock button, handle, latch, etc. This is also the part where things can get really tight. Use longnose pliers to help. You will need to remove these rods and remember where they all go. Also, be aware of any retaining clips. Sometimes, they are attached, sometimes not. Don't let them fall down into the door.4. Once the handle assembly is out, install the new one by doing everything above, but in reverse.If it sounds or gets too complicated, it's ok to let someone else do it.Hope this helps.Good luck! :)

3.0L V6 (and box behind it?)post a problem fist the A/t box list of failures is 20 paged + long, name one?that way we the blind can be on the same page?and there is not just one box solenoid/the word is solenoid's (MANY INSIDE IT,DEEP)say my a/t box shifts funny?, late? or slips? or will not shift in drive,1,2,3,4,5 or sticks at 2.??????? DRIVE DEAD,REVERSE DEAD , low deadPRNDLsome of these 3.0L have a mazda transmissioncalledMazda trans.; Trans. code FNR5seen here allhttps://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mercury,2007,milan,3.0l+v6,1434320,transmission-automatic,shift+solenoid,8476inside the transmission ,vb ,valve body. 99% of cars FOR SURE 2007 !!!!all.6 solenoids seen here best https://www.amazon.com/Mazda-FNR5-6PC-SOLENOID-KIT/dp/B073HG31TWbut not A?T box but is was.not the console shift lever park/lockout / solenoid.?no actual problem told? just a hunt. (vague)shifter lever stuck in PARK???????

Is the red brake warning lamp lit in the instrument cluster ? Did you check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder ?

Watch this video for help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRDOnNtoH48

Underhood battery junction box . Fuel pump not working ? Your vehicle has electronic returnless fuel system , has a fuel pump driver module , fuel rail pressure sensor that is a input to the PCM - engine computer . PCM communicates fuel needs to the FPDM which controls the fuel pump with PWM - pulse width modulation . The fuel pump does not run all the time. Ford Electronic Returnless Fuel System Diagnosis Part 1 Ford Find fuel pump relay location here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Enter vehicle info. Year , make , model an engine . Under system click on electrical distribution ,then under subsystem click on fuse panel . Click the search button then the first blue link .You will see battery junction box diagram

Check you water damp outlet is not blocked. This causes build up of water inside the cabin after a while. Owner manual should help you indicate, otherwise,under the car the outlet should be seen and if no water dispenses when aircon is on, it’s definitely clogged

Well you could have a couple problems. First and maybe the simple to check. Open the hood and see of the shifter is moving when the inside is moving. Connectors and brackets do break. You think the slave is working but only way to know is with the car off and in gear. Try pushing the car if it does not roll then the clutch is working and nothing is broke letting the car roll easy. Press the clutch and if the car rolls then you know the clutch is working. Yes it's a simple test but it works then at least you know it's not the clutch. If you can't get the car in gear when running but you can when it's turn off. Good guess the master cylinder slave or a hose has gone bad. Check the fluid see if it's empty. If it is then it's clear there is the problem and filling the reservoir will show where it's leaking once you see the leak. Bleeding the system after replacing parts will be the last thing. If everything seems good. Last and worse case would be the transmission broke or cv shaft broke but then it would roll easy and make alot of grinding noises depending on where it broke. Trany shop can always help figure out what's wrong and give an estimate for parts and labor

This is the location of the fan motor for the heater / air conditioner.

Probably a voltage sensor locking the signal to start the car. Check the battery and charging system. Happened the other day to my wife. Battery was weak. don-ohio

There is a lockout that keeps the starter from turning the engine over unless your foot is on the brake. When a foot bumps the switch which is usually on the upper brake pedal level, the switch can either break or move where it will not work. Often you will notice the brake lights do not work, but there are some that will break and short out in different ways.

If it keeps throwing up the same codes it may not be a sensor issue directly. There is a possibility that the wire harness, ground, and/or connector to that sensor is faulty, or the computer itself has some bad or corroded connections.It seems you need a hands on Guru to find the issue - with a pulse short finder. These newer vehicles have overly complex electrical systems that 'loop' power and ground connections through several components, as well as the onboard computer, and a short finder may be the only solution. I hope this helps to steer you in a feasible direction - and Thanks for using Fixya!!

I am guessing you mean the door lock codes. If no one has changed them, you may be able to find a tape strip with the 5 numbers on it in a hidden place. Often these strips are put on trunk hinge brackets or under doors or other body panels. This holds true for the original number. You may be able to get the info from the Dealer if the Vin# has a record of it. But-the number can be changed by an owner. It can be anything now if it was changed. In that case, a new lock would be needed.

Sorry to say its not designed to be checked by the car owner. There is a check plug that you can access if you have the factory instructions and the tools to do the job.

If this is a car lot purchase, they should have at least a 30 Day guarantee. You can get FREE help at Autozone, Advance, or Oreilys parts stores as they give free scans to interpret the Code for the wrench light.

hy my name is bj igot a bad problem whit my 05 pathfinder wen i tun on the truck starts to low idle it does tnot accelerate can you help me

around the 150-160 psi mark with no more that 10% difference between readings