20 Most Recent 2009 Chrysler Town and Country Questions & Answers

1st thing have the battery load tested, most parts stores do this for free.

Might try discon battery for ten minutes.

Is the check engine light on? If so, have it scanned.

REmove screws from old actuator. Unhook from linkage/door. Install new actuator and screws.

buy new ones

clean out both tracks,they are dirty

2009 Chrysler for the easy solution download the pdf file

I would try to recalibrate the climate control head

The deck's electronics are shot - Will cost a fortune to have repaired if even possible. Time to move on.

latch and lock are jammed from the hit will probably need to pry hatch over or lift while unlocking to open than adjust hatch or latch for proper working order also check relay and fuse hit may have also damaged wiring

Relay under hood, most likely switch in steering column

Better have the front end checked, either it's in a bad need of a front end alignment, or a front end component is bad.

If you can disconnect both, then see if the noise is still there, if no noise, connect 1, try again, then connect the second, its trial and error like this until it shows up.

My experience with frequently-used vehicle remotes (any make) is this: 1. When relatively new or in good condition, if remote stops working, the button battery inside is dead or too low. 2. If battery is new, & remote still doesn't work, a solder joint on the circuit board inside may have come loose or broken.(You can try re-soldering using a low-heat pencil iron & thin RESIN-core solder -- even if you're not great at it, what do you have to lose?) 3. It's rather unusual for even an older, well-used remote to simply lose its programming.If this is the problem, it may be cheaper to buy a new after-market remote (or pair of remotes) that you can program yourself (only works with some brands & years of vehicles, so READ THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THEIR WEBSITE BEFORE BUYING AN AFTER-MARKET REMOTE), instead of going to the dealer for a normally HIGH-priced programming job. 4. Used OEM remotes that match yours exactly (check the part # of your remote & the used one you're considering) can often be purchased from a local auto wrecker (now called "auto recycler") for cheap ($5 to $10 is common), but will need programming.I always go thru the many they have, looking for one that appears new or like-new. 5. IF YOU MUST GET PROGRAMMING FROM A DEALER, usually it's the SAME PRICE whether you have 1 remote or several remotes/keys programmed at the same time.Since dealer programming is pricey, I always have 3-4 remotes and/or chip-keys programmed at the same time.(My dear wife loses chip-keys & remotes from time-to-time, so I keep a few spares on-hand.I've found inexpensive after-market chip-key blanks at some key cutters and/or auto parts stores, altho they still require programming after the copy is cut from yours.) CAUTION:Some OEM anti-theft systems require that ALL remotes & chip-keys be programmed/re-programmed at the same time, whether they're original, used or new.Determine this IN ADVANCE, so you know what you're faced with.The good news is that for those vehicle manufacturers, dealers normally don't charge more to program/re-program multiple remotes and/or chip-keys, if all are being done AT THE SAME TIME. 6. If all else fails & you MUST buy a new OEM remote (which will require programming), try 2 things -- First, see if the dealer will make you a package deal on buying the remote (or 2 remotes, or a remote & a chip-key) AND doing the programming for a lower combined price.Second, it may be cheaper to buy a new OEM remote from a dealer who's had one in stock for a long time & wants to blow it out (or buy from online OEM seller) & then pay the normal programming price.See the CAUTION above. There are lots of options here, so hopefully something is useful to you.