Opel Cars & Trucks - Page 8 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

WE DO NOT SEE OPALS HERE IN THE USA SO WE HAVE NEVER SEEN UNDER THE HOOD

Answered on Fixya already https://www.fixya.com/cars/t20493893-torque_setting_cylinder_head_opel_corsa More here including videos https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+Opel+Corsa+1.4+litre.+Cylinder+Head+bolts+torque+setting ..

The head bolts require an angle gauge to torque them the sequence goes like this -Tightening torque 25 Nm + 90° + 90° + 90° + 45° There are 10 bolts just start in the center and spiral out

With the engine running check the battery voltage with a meter should read around 14.5 volts, switch on headlights reading should still above 12 volts , if not check drive belt tension or voltage regulator .

on the timing gears

it is eather the timing chain is skiped or there is cogs missing on the belt. so time to replace the belt or chain

Videos and text articles. Don't forget to hone the sheen off the cylinder bores so the rings and the bores bed in together. You should really have a workshop manual. It is free and herehttps://www.allcarmanuals.com/data/files/manuals/holden/Holden-Astra-TR-1995-1998-Workshop-Manual.pdf..The torques are here in text and also in videos.https://www.google.com/search?safe=off&rlz=1C1QJDB_enCA643CA644&sxsrf=ALeKk00cC7O4HcTRwcTrVP4y7STe3R4mXg%3A1615677165537&ei=7UZNYNGLIK6RtgW-rIbwCw&q=+1994+opel+astra+1.6IE+8+valve+cylinder+head+torque+settings..

First make sure it is the correct belt for that engine. Sometimes the really cheap belts are often not quite the correct size so they wear out faster. If it has covers over the belts are they fitted correctly? Are you having any other issues with the car? A battery not charging or an over heating problem? These can give clues to possible reasons for the belt wear. Where on the belt are the wear marks showing? If it is on the smooth back side of the belt there is probably something rubbing on it. Look to see if there is something else in the engine bay that is sticking out and touching where it shouldn't. If it is on the ribbed, working side of the belt it could be a pulley wheel causing the issue. The tensioner could be sticking or failing so it isn't adjusting for engine speed changes. It could also be one of the pulleys it runs around 'dragging'. With the engine OFF remove the belt and check the tensioner moves freely against the spring inside it. Turn all the smaller pulley wheels the belt runs around by hand. They should turn smoothly, freely and quietly. If they feel 'gritty' or seem noisy that could be where the issue is.

Fixya does not have specs for every vehicle made. But this link might help you https://www.google.com/search?q=Settings+for+big+end+and+mains+on+1.2+opel+kadett+1983&hl=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi-7Yic-PLuAhVVeH0KHeTICZ4Q_AUoAnoECBEQBA&biw=1366&bih=625You can also try google or the service manual.

Check the key is the correct one and not from another vehicle first!

If the shaft jams, the valve timing is incorrect.

i have idea

8v or 16v engine? The latest torque value is often supplied with the replacement head gasket. You should verify these figures from an official source but with any stretched or corroded bolts replaced and with all male and female threads thoroughly cleaned and lubricated along with the washers and under the bolt heads, the bolts are tightened in stages in a spiral pattern working outwards from the centre pair to an initial torque of 18 lbft. As an example, many of the 8 valve Vauxhall/Opel engines are then tightened by 60 degrees + 60 +60 and then after a thorough warm up and at least 6 hours cooling the bolts are tightened a further 30/50 degrees depending on "feel".

2008?

The camshaft and it's housing is retained by the cylinder head bolts - if you have removed the camshaft housing the cylinder head gasket must also be replaced and the latest torque figures are usually supplied with a replacement gasket. The male and female threads must be cleaned and lubricated and any stretched or corroded bolts replaced. The washers too and under the bolt heads must be lubricated. The bolts are tightened starting with the centre pair and working outwards in a spiral pattern.The bolts are tightened first to an initial torque of 18 lb-ft and then by 60 degrees + 60 + 30 degrees and then after thoroughly warming up the engine and at least 6 hours cooling time, by a further 30 - 50 degrees depending on "feel", but you should verify these figures before proceeding... The tappets are self adjusting hydraulic that will fully extend when the cam housing is removed. If the advice in the repair manual is followed, restarting the engine after rebuild will be difficult so it is best to empty them of oil before refitting by gently squeezing each in a vice several times with the oil hole downmost. For future reference, there is a service tool designed to allow camshaft removal without removing the cylinder head bolts.

Vauxhall/Opel's 8 valve 2 litre ohc engine, working from memory - the initial torque starting from the middle pair of bolts and working outwards in a spiral pattern is 18 lbft. This is followed by further tightening in stages of 60 degrees + 60 + 60. After thoroughly warming up and allowing at least 6 hours cooling time the bolts are tightened a further 30 - 60 degrees, depending on "feel". Stretched or corroded bolts should be replaced, all male and female threads should be thoroughly cleaned and lubricated as should the washers and under the bolt heads. Starting after rebuild is easier if the hydraulic tappets are emptied of oil prior to refitting. The current tightening specs are usually provided with the replacement gasket.

Clean carb or throttlbody w gumout n change airfiltr

No easy answer - a code read might reveal something electrical but a generic obd 2 scanner doesn't read much data as it is manufacturer specific obd 1. The cause could be almost anything from your very sparse description - from a dirty spark plug to bad compressions with a lot in between. Best place to start is ensure the routine maintenance is up to date and thoroughly carried out.

Firstly, it is hardly conceivable that an alternator fault will cause an ignition problem - or vice versa. An alternator does get hot when it is working hard which is why they are fitted with a cooling fan (later ones have an internal fan) - so how hot does your alternator get and what makes you think it is associated with your ignition fault? Your question is very short on detail - do you have the twin cam engine? What sort of coil pack do you have - is the type that sits direct on the spark plugs or the type that connects via spark plug wires? What part of the coil pack is it that burns? When you say it doesn't want to spark, do you mean the coil isn't making sparks or just that the engine isn't starting?

It somewhat depends on which engine version is fitted but the Vauxhall/Opel ohc engines need the initial angular torquing of the cylinder head bolts and after a warm up and cool down cycle a further small tighten. You will of course have to obtain the exact values from the applicable engine data though this is usually provided with a replacement head gasket. After thoroughly cleaning of the parts including the female and male head bolt threads. Fit the new gasket and the head, etc. Preferably using new bolts but certainly replacing any corroded or stretched bolts, lubricate the threads and washers and fit the bolts and using a suitable torque wrench tighten in an outward spiral pattern to the initial figure (usually around 18 lb-ft). Using the same outward spiral pattern the bolts are then further tightened in four stages that is something like 60 degrees + 60 + 30 and then after thoroughly warming up the engine and allowing it to cool for at least 6 hours, tighten a further 30 degrees. No further tightening is required...