9 is not familiar to me. Call dealer service department and ask them what code means.
Here are codes for a 94 Aerostar. I don't have 91 Sable. Sorry.
Air Bag Diagnostic Monitor Diagnostic Trouble Code Priority Table
Diagnostic Trouble Code
Component/Fault Description
—
No Air Bag Indicator — Inoperative Indicator Circuit or No Battery Positive Voltage to Air Bag Diagnostic Monitor
—
Continuous Air Bag Indicator — Air Bag Diagnostic Monitor Disconnected or Inoperative
12
Low Battery Voltage
13
Air Bag Module or RH Cowl Side Panel Air Bag Sensor Circuit Shorted to Ground
21
LH Cowl Side Panel Air Bag Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
22
LH Cowl Side Panel Air Bag Sensor Circuit Shorted to Battery Voltage
23
LH Cowl Side Panel Air Bag Sensor Circuit Input Feed/Return Circuit Open
24
LH Cowl Side Panel Air Bag Sensor Diagnostic Circuit Open or Low Resistance in Center Air Bag or Front Air Bag
32
Driver Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open
33
Passenger Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open
34
Driver Side Air Bag Circuit Low Resistance or Shorted
35
Passenger Side Air Bag Circuit Low Resistance or Shorted
41
Center Radiator and RH Cowl Side Panel Air Bag Sensor Circuits High Resistance or Open
44
RH Cowl Side Panel Air Bag Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
45
Center Air Bag Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
46
Open Splice Center Air Bag Sensor Ground Monitor
51
Air Bag Diagnostic Monitor Internal Thermal Fuse Blown and Short to Ground No Longer Exists
52
Backup Power Supply Voltage Boost Fault
53
Sensor Circuits Resistance to Ground or Internal Air Bag Diagnostic Monitor Fault
—
Rapid Continuous Flashing of Air Bag Indicator
OLD POST BUT HERE WE GO.
3.8L told(good) 3.8 L EssexV6
gen 2 car/
SAME AS ALL CARS, BUT STEP2
GAIN ACCESS TO THE PUMP, MUST BE CONFUSING.
now the wall of text
Disconnect the negative battery cable lug, then place a drain pan under the radiator drain ****.
Carefully remove the radiator cap, then open the drain **** on the radiator and drain the cooling system.
Loosen the four water pump pulley retaining bolts while the accessory drive belts are still tight.
Location of the four water pump pulley retaining bolts-Late
Loosen the alternator belt adjuster jack screw to provide enough clearance for the removal of the alternator belt.
Using a 1/2 in. breaker bar, rotate the automatic tensioner down and to the left.
Remove the power steering/air conditioner belt.
Remove the two nuts and bolt retaining the drive belt automatic tensioner to the engine, then remove the tensioner.
Disconnect and remove the lower radiator and heater hose from the water pump.
Remove the eleven water pump-to-engine retaining bolts, then lift the water pump and pulley up and out of the vehicle.
Remove the water pump pulley retaining bolts, them remove the pulley from the water pump.
THE ECU/PCM CUTS SPARK AND FUEL MANY WAYS.
ON PURPOSE;. TO AVOID CRASH AND BURN AS SEEN NO TV.(&BY LAW)
SO CHECK FOR SPARK ON ALL SPARK PLUGS.
THE ECU DIAGNOSTIC JUMPER MUST WORK 1993(Or as book says)
IF NOT FUSES ARE BLOWN,
WHEN THE PCM SEES (MEANS DETECTS) ANY KIND OF SPARK FAILURE
IT CUTS FUEL FAST , ON PURPOSE
SO THE PCM MUST BE SCANNED TO SEE WHY.
YOU HAVE NO SUPER REAR OB2D FORD SCAN TOOL
SO THE JUMPER WIRE METHOD MUST TIRED, AND MUST WORKL
FIND THE SERVICE MANUAL IS THE FIRST ACT DOING DIY/ OR FAIL.
ALL THE FACT ARE THEY ,BUY ONE USED OFF FLEABAY.
PAPER BOOKS BACK THEN, NO PDF'S AT ALL OF 1000 PAGES YET.
ALSO I BET THE INJECTORS ARE ALL CLOGGED. FROM BAD FUEL
CAM SENSOR DEAD ?
ICM DEAD.
30 YEAR OLD SPARK WIRES ARE NEVER GOOD.
OLD SECRETS FROM 30 YEAR OLD BOOKS ARE NOT EASY TO FIND
I SEE THIS VAGUE HINT
Self-Test Input (STI) connector and the signal return pin of the Self-Test connector.
ONCE SPARK IS WORKING AND TIMED RIGHT
THE TEST FUEL SPRAY INSTANT START WORKS TO HEAR ENGINE RUN FOR 3 SECONDS EACH TRY AND HEAR IF ENGINE SOUNDS GOOD.
my wild guess , is use the ford way
https://youtu.be/-YYQKssOEOs
or search here this way
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=1980+to+1995+mercury+odb1+trouble+codes
the flash codes must work
or the ecu is bad.
power ecu is dead, 12vdc is 0vdc, ground to ecu bad.
again all fuses check, as in ALL.
first.
this guy discovers photo lights. so we an see, amazing,
https://youtu.be/CnQw6xMAYlE
if the jumper is missing?
it is just a 2 american made FASTON(tm) jumper, male
to a 18awg wire (18 is stronger and more robust) size does not matter only that it lasts. 20 more year,s grin
or use a unbent paper clip, of steel not plastic of any kind ever.
Replacing the whole lot would be a quick fix, but if you got water in it, it will take a few flushes to get it all out. You may also have internal electric solenoids that have shorted out. Diagnostics with a pro grade scan tool computer can diagnose this.
Check to see if the top and bottom hose are the same temperature when the car is running. If the bottom hose is cold than you have a ciculation problem. At the same time see if the top hose is hard. If not than you may want to replace the radiator cap which will hinder the circulation of your coolant, which could also keep the fan from working. Also a bad thermostat could stop the circulation. a bad water pump could affect the circulation.All I can say is go with the cap first than the thermostat. If you unplug the sensor and the fan comes on than the relay is working.Hope this helps some leave a comment.
With strangeness like that, you can only diagnose using a pro grade scan tool computer. It can even record what is happening up to and past the point where it fails to react. All the things your changed are unlikely the cause. Once the engine is running, you know the fuel system is working. The engine being warm makes no difference to how the pump runs, how clean the tank is or how clean the fuel filter is. The 'let's try replacing this' method of auto repair seldom works and is expensive. It is likely to be throttle body, sensors or computer communication issues.
https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me
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