Mercedes-Benz 190-Class - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 7

if you find the main fuse box look down about 8 inches and you'll see a little black box take off the top and its the blue fuse

sounds like a head gasket to me.

did you check fuse in relay?

ry two forums one benzworld. org, and peachparts forum

The electrics in the Mercedes are notoriously flaky. A failing alternator would cause a low voltage condition that would cause the battery to run down but would not likely damage any of the computer modules. Have you REPLACED the fuses that protect the various fuel and ignition modules? Not just visually inspected, but REPLACED them? When I ran my Mercedes 123 series cars, I replaced all the fuses on Day One, regardless of how good they looked. Bosch fuses are known to corrode and cause intermittent problems similar to yours. If a fuse is overheating or the contacts are not good, a few minutes of driving could cause a problem that imitates expensive module failure. It happened with my Mercedes and my Volvos that used Bosch fuses.

The fuel pump relay is behind the battery. remove it and bridge pin #30 (should be under power) and #87 (that goes to the fuel pump). If the fuel pump kicks in you know the relay is bad

You sure its a V6? The 190E 6cyl was an inline 6 and no I'm not aware of them having a chip. None of my 190E's or the 300E had a chip in the key. Not even my 92 S320

Sounds to me like the vacuum line to your locking/unlocking device in the non properly working doors are your problem. As more than one door is effected I would suggest the line/connection at the vacuum pump under the back seat is a good place to start looking. The vacuum pump is literally underneath the back seat inside a foam 'pillow'. The backseat is locked down by two devices where the floor and the seat meat. push the visable tab in and that should release that side. Easiest done with two ppl, one on either side.

You getting benzin (petrol) into the engine oil??? I'm assuming your 190E is injected? Problem could be your fuel distributor. If you remove the lines from the fuel distributor that go to the injectors. turn on the ignition just so that the fuelpump kicks in (it only stays on a short time to pressurize the system)... there should be NO fuel coming out. If fuel bubbles out of any of the 4 (assuming a 4cyl) lines of the fuel distributor than the fuel distributor is 'faulty' and feeds the injectors to much fuel and the excess fuel washes itself past the rings into the engine sump. This can be caused by one or more of the O-rings inside between the plungerhousing and the upperbody or even some perforation in the gasket membrane.... either way the fuel distributor is not a servicable part, Bosch does not sell any kind of kit for the internal parts as the fueldistributors are factory adjusted to a certain flow and as new parts be of different thickness etc. the flow would be outside manufacturers settings. Cheapest solution would be a secondhand unit.

you'll need to dry all electrical devices,and connections

A. Check your transmission fluid. It's a hydraulic action. Low fluid will affect your transmission drastically. B. Your reverse clutches could be going out on an automatic transmission. C. Check your linkage, on a front wheel drive, it's usually attached towards the top of the transmission/ on a rear wheeldrive column shift, it can be attached on the side of the transmission. Play from a wornout bushing on that linkage can prevent the linkage from actually pushing the lever far enough to engage reverse. Hope this helps.

Sometimes, those motors for your wipers are a gear tooth. The inside of the actual housing for your wiper is the female side. After wear and tear/time, the teeth are worn down and A. the wiper will fail to turn completely or with any resistance slow down, or B. easily come off the motor. they are sometimes just pressed on. Check the teeth on the male gear to see if they're damaged or the inside of the wiper arm to see if they're damaged. If the teeth on the motor side are fine, you can get away with just buying a new wiper arm versus buying a new motor. Hope this helped.

No, Mercedes 1989 model does not have chip. We have made a key for E Class and even made a video for it...

OVP will not cause it to stall once engine is running. Check the distributor cap and rotor as they often burn out. Coil can fail too.

Battery cables? If so the short black cable with one end bolted to the inner fender near the windshiel goes to the negative or ground battery post...marked on the battery as NEG or/and - .The other battery post clamp is for the positive post on the battery marked + and/or POS.There should be no other cables unless someone has installed a radio amplifier or other power operated items. If so, these will go to the POS + post.

FUEL IS LIKELY IT. THE CHEAPEST TRY IS THE FUEL PUMP RELAY. FUEL PRESSURE SHOULD BE CHECKED

ONE RARE BUT VEXING PROBLEM LIKE THIS HAPPENS WHEN THE TEMPERATURE SENSOR THINKS THE ENGINE IS COLD AND ENRICHES THE FUEL TO THE POINT IT FLOODS.

EGR VALVE CAN DO THIS ALSO TORGUE CONVERTER IS NOT RELEASING OR SEVERE VACUUM LEAK