Mercedes-Benz 190-Class - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Could be that speedo cable has become disconnected or that the inner shaft has broken. The speed cable is connected between the back of the instrument cluster and the left side of the transmission. Check under the car that the cable is securely fitted to the side of the transmission. Disconnect it and and check on the condition of the square drive flexible shaft. The spinning of this inner shaft is what conveys the output shaft speed of the transmission to the instruments. The instrument cluster can be removed but pushing a length of coat hanger wire with right angle turn on its end between the the cluster and the dashboard surround. Turn the coat hanger to hook behind the cluster and pull forward to remove it. Try several points around the cluster. It is best to disconnect the speedo drive cable to withdraw the cluster (after electrical connections have been disconnected. check that the speedo cable is secure to the back of the instruments. If you remove the cluster completely follow the path of the speedo cable. If you have to replace the cable, tying a length of string to the speedo cable end first and posting the string down the cable path will help the re-installation enormously. Simply pull the string whilst reinstalling the instrument cluster until the end of the speedo can be got hold of. Refit the speedo cable to the transmission only after the instrument cluster is back in place.

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Lambda is a measure of the air fuel ratio and the aim is to have a Lambda of 1, though usually the range of 0.9 to 1.1 is acceptable. A lambda of 1 equates to the ideal air fuel ratio of 14.7 and at 0.4 the mixture would be so weak or lean it is a miracle the engine runs at all. I suggest you begin by suspecting the device you are using to measure the lambda. I notice you mention fuel distributor and being able to adjust the fuel. It is clear your car is fitted with a continuous injection system, a comparatively crude system with little or no computer interference. Measuring the lambda is fairly inappropriate as the system was designed to be adjusted by CO content which from memory was 0.5 to 1.5, though it was difficult to persuade well-used models to perform well with a CO level less then 2.5. A CO level of 2.5 would put your lambda tester off the scale (rich). As you say everything has been done to the fuel system so you can warrant the fuel pressure is correct and the fuel distributor and injectors are correct for the car. What about the valve and ignition timing? Has the exhaust been checked for obstruction? I am wondering two things; firstly, are you confusing lambda and CO content and secondly are you sure you are adjusting the amount of fuel that is being injected and not merely adjusting the air screw. From memory the fuel adjustment uses a long allen key or screwdriver to reach the adjustment that is in a deep recess in the air cleaner/fuel regulator/fuel distributor. See repair manual for details.

Your timing is too far advanced. Loosen the distributor securement bolt and back it off a couple of degrees in timing. It isn't that it has too much compression for the starter, it's just firing way too soon to start and run.

Google images has it

Likely a failing crankshaft position sensor... Part #: 002-153-95-28-MBZ https://autoplicity.com/9241615-fae-002-153-95-28-camshaft-position-sensor?gclid=CjwKCAiAmb7RBRATEiwA7kS8VAI-hgXJUgVcHpRbhQQXGlj_d81y94fmbset2D_Lkg0sU33E6J6jZBoCBkwQAvD_BwE http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-W129/37-ENGINE-Crankshaft_Position_Sensor_Removal/37-ENGINE-Crankshaft_Position_Sensor_Removal.htm

sunroof module may need replacing, this tells the window to open and close also adjust window when doors locked, works of a magnetic alignment, but the reader can go on them, so you just need to replace this part, its bolted on or near the motor and the motor wires go into the unit. just replace with same part number.

Not sure what you mean as far as i know there is none the ecu regulates all this type of thing

The best way i know is to ake off the rocker box set it to tdc then brake the chane in half atatch the new one to yhe old and hand turn the engine with a ratchet ect the turn will feed the chain around bottom cog inside the engine keep turning untill the new chain has come through all the way disconect the old chain and join the two new ends together job done just make sure the timing marks on the head and at tdc if it slips you will have to fet itvrevtimed again hope this makes sende ivan

Firstly, if it's fuel injected, there is no choke. That cold start mode is actuated by the computer. IF it has a carb on it, the choke is opened a little to keep it running with a vacuum line connected from the choke dashpot to the carb base when cold till warm-up, then a heat spring pulls the choke full open. Your gonna have to make up your mid as to whether it fuel injection or natural aspiration with a carburetor.

Sounds like a Starter remove it and test it on the battery keep a tight hold as it turns quit sharpley if it works its possible it could bevthe cylanoid replacevthe full starter its just as cheap mine was 90 pound originall merc part

good day. there's a leak somewhere in your vacuum hose. have it checked by a mechanic.

Most probably injection pump, but it can be an injector stuck (in your case, no.2)