Mazda MAZDA6 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Most modern cars have the fuel filter built into the fuel pump itself inside the actual fuel tank. Replacing it isn't usually needed unless a batch of very bad fuel has been used or if the filter is on a very high mileage pump. If there is no inspection cover under the rear seat pad you will need to drop the fuel tank off and out from under the vehicle to change it.

I'm sending you the torque specifications for your main bearings and also your head bolts. I also sent you main bearing and cylinder head tightening sequence. I hope this will be useful
Main Bearings Torque specs. 40-43 Ft. Lbs.
Cylinder Head Torque specs. 56-60 Ft. Lbs.

This could be caused by a variety of issues, including low transmission fluid levels, a faulty transmission control module, or worn-out transmission components. It's best to take your car to a certified mechanic who can diagnose the issue and provide an accurate repair estimate. In the meantime, you can check the transmission fluid level in your car. Here are the steps to follow: Park your car on a level surface and turn off the engine. Open the hood and locate the transmission dipstick. Remove the dipstick and wipe it clean with a lint-free cloth. Reinsert the dipstick all the way back into its tube. Pull out the dipstick again and check the fluid level. The fluid should be between the "Full" and "Add" marks on the dipstick. If you find that your transmission fluid level is low, you can add more fluid to bring it up to the correct level. Be sure to use the type of transmission fluid recommended by Mazda for your car.

there isn't one, only Fords have inertia switches.

I'm trying to find the inertia switch on a 2004 Mazda 6s 6

JustAnswer https://www.justanswer.com > Mazda Repair Aug 14, 2016 - There is no inertia switch on your mazda 6. There is a fuel shut off valve which is integrates in the fuel tank. When you put the key to run ... 1 answer · Top answer: Just checking to see if you need any further assistance. If you do just let me know. If you ...

RESETTING THE SWITCH

mazdabg.com https://www.mazdabg.com > ftp-uploads > Mazda > 9... RESETTING THE SWITCH. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Ensure that there is no fuel leaking in the engine compartment, along any of the lines or at the tank.

I put in for information on a Mazda 6 with a 3.0 2004 ain't not one of them they're going to answer y'all got up there anywhere near no Mazda 6 3.0 2004 what kind of is that where is the nursery switch

no sure all that. but evidence, SO FAR: backfires to TB (back fires to induction path) never good that. and serious. engine misfires badly. owner simulates air cleaner clogged and it runs better. the fist test, ouch. RPM MAX 2000<<< limp home mode or just gross misfire. 19 YEAR OLD CAR NO SERVICE HISTORY POSTED CAM CHAIN SCREAMING FOR HELP?????????<<NOISE MAX? 19 year parts that fail are

• maf dirty needs cleaning,never brush any hot wire MAF ever.
• spark parts bad plugs and the wire sets. if not replaced 1 by one on that huge coil pack it will back wire for sure. oops. wasted spark rules can not be ignored !
• bad thermostat overheated engine and valves burned./
• fan belt bad or slips and waterpump fails. and overheats again

some DTC can not set and be seen unless you drive the car say 2000 rpmmax(LOL) around the block fully hot engine 180f to 200F temp, hot engine means normal hot engine, is it does it? and 19year old thermostats are NO GOOD. stuck open oops or the silly fail safe STAT stuck open and 150f is max. and stuck on cold start mode for ever and fouls spark plugs and misfires endlessly. I'd do a full engine compression test any 19yo car. gee it's old, 150psi and more and near equal x4 no miles told on car 200k miles 250k? seems too that engine ran worse before and was ignored and the CAT is melted, and 80% melted and engine can not pump air, as it should. we see that effect easy with a vacuum tool; gauge if vacuum is wrong, 20"hG steady or as you gun the throttle. vacuum works backwards with cat clogged. means partially clogged. if fully clogged engine is DEAD fully. this is just some tests. not a full set of tests ever, do I post, I could but refuse. NOW IF YOU OR OTHER PLAYED WITH 4 WAY COIL PACK HERE IS THE CURE. MUST BE WIRED THIS WAY ONLY. firing order is , 1,2,4,2 wasted spark. tech. block F1,2,3,4R front is at engine belt end. if wired wrong it will backfire horrid. grossly. 1 and 4 fire same time 2 and 3 same. time. only 2 coils inside to run 4. magic.

it needs service, go to a shop and get some starts and stalls can be over 50 causes but is in the macro form bad engine, bad spark bad fueling or even bad actual fuel. there are may test to find the cause, using tools you do not have. first is IMMO, is the IIMMO lamp glowing funny (wrong as that cuts spark in 1 to 10 seconds. ln theft mode. what do you want to do? guess, test or get it to a shop. all cars owned long enough do this, and for sure not serviced, correctly. test 2, IMMO is #1 #2 can the fast right foot save the stall. easy test no? immo = immobilizer

There are a few potential reasons why your engine fans may be running all the time after you turn off your 2006 Mazda 6:

1. Coolant temperature sensor: The coolant temperature sensor may be malfunctioning and sending incorrect signals to the engine control module. As a result, the fans may run continuously to try and keep the engine cool.
2. Faulty fan relay: The fan relay controls when the fans turn on and off. If the relay is faulty, it can cause the fans to run all the time.
3. Failed Engine Control Module (ECM): The Engine Control Module (ECM) controls the engine fans and if it fails it can cause the fans to run constantly.
4. Leak in the cooling system: A leak in the cooling system can cause the engine to overheat, which can cause the fans to run all the time.
5. Stuck fan clutch: A fan clutch that is stuck in the "on" position can cause the fans to run all the time.

It's best to have a professional mechanic diagnose the issue. They will be able to identify the specific cause of the problem and make the necessary repairs. It is also important to keep an eye on the temperature gauge, if it's showing a high temperature and the fans are running all the time, it's important to stop the car as soon as possible and have it checked by a professional to avoid further damage.

See the link https://www.google.com/search?q=2003+Mazda+6.+How+to+test+master+slave+cylinder+clutch ..

Hi Phil

Here you go:

http://shop.aubu.de/catalog/images/montageanleitungen/757.pdf

Cheers, Norman

I have a 2010 Mazda 6 and I have probably burned through at least 6 bulbs on each headlight since November 2013... I just dropped my car off at the shop AGAIN for the drivers side bulb. My mechanic has run all sorts of tests and checks and can not seem to find the problem! WHY HASN'T THERE BEEN A RECALL ISSUED??????? VERY FRUSTRATED!!!!!!!!!

To hyjacker Jeeda and others.Yes, all cars can do this, we call it KEY OFF phantom drain. most cars spec list ILLEGALL drains (spec)_ as over 0.050 amperes. (50mA max)KeyOFF.Here is a short to do list to find it. (most steps need ammeter to find it, )1 A dark garage. find lamps stuck on, every INCH of car inside and out. go slow and look (bingo?)2: connect the ammeter to the battery PLUS lug. see that drain? illegall? now, key off for sure.3: now unplug every fuse 1 by 1 to find the feed that has drain. (cab/ eng.bay) unplug and put back. actions.4: unplug all relays, same way as fuse, found it, yet? see drain go away is he goal, simple goal.5: ok 3 or 4 finds bad feed line with drain,we then unplug all things 1 by 1 on that failing feed found above.6: ok nothing found yet,(cause) move ammeter to huge wire on the Alternator, lub, see a drain there (BINGO bad ALT)the below ammeter (amp/clamp) is the most easy way to find Phantom Drains. bar noneunless the scan tool scans told you what was bad ? a Phantom drain allowed to persist can wreck the battery in just 24hours.THE METER must DO DC amps (many do not and costs tad more for DC amps) DC CURRENTAND A 2AMP RANGE. at least.https://www.amazon.com/Current-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Ammeter-V-Alert/dp/B094R8CB4W/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=dc%2Bamp%2Bmeter&qid=1659787362&sr=8-10&th=1on my meter it has autozero button that must be pushed 1 time in current mode. to calibrate it first ,and clamp; the wire first. (better meters cost more)I put a STAR icon to show the amp lamp test points, (battery cable and ALT) simple example.

Tank is easily accessible by removing the lower rear seat cushion. There is an access panel right under it.

Is it an automatic? something to do with the safety interlock as it involves the brake? As you have so many issues, you need an auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer to diagnose which of the sensors and modules is faulty. Likely to be one of the ??? position sensors. Vibration is caused by the engine not firing and running smoothly, perhaps only 2 cylinders firing.

Is this a bulb in the heater controls? If so I had the same problem and got the bulbs from this auction:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190510970759

Worked a treat and they helped me with a guide to removing the console too.

Hello. It seems there is a problem with either your car's starter relay, wiring and/or ECM. Most 'functions' of modern vehicles goes through the ECM. Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.

Try cleaning the contact blots sometimes dirt makes them not make contact

https://www.google.com/search?q=2004+mazda+6+2.3l+firing+order Pictures and text articles.

Sounds like yes, just match the pin configuration on both modules. If the are the same .........try it

If you try to tighten the upper intake plenum bolts to 18ft/lbs you will most definitely break them off! They call for 89in/lbs so 7-8ft/lbs is plenty adequate.